---

Well I decided I should start a thread to address whats going on with the project and to get answers to questions that come up.

See my Project Gallery Album here

Here she is as I picked her up.

[img]http://www.whalercentral.com/images/photoalbum_3/useralbum_29/040108104_t1.jpg[/img]

I got the motors running and have sent the motor covers out for paint... Like the trashbag covers?

[img]http://www.whalercentral.com/images/photoalbum_3/useralbum_29/0530081408_t1.jpg[/img]

Then I started to strip the bottom paint off starting with the transom. Once I got into it I realized that there were many holes over the years for different motors and transducers. There is also a patch to the left of the drain hole which is starting to fail.

[img]http://www.whalercentral.com/images/photoalbum_3/useralbum_29/0604081405_t1.jpg[/img]

The drain tube that runs from the rear fish box to the transom is toast which has caused some wet foam and wood. There was only about 2" of tube left and it appears that there should be about 6".
I have the orings and tool on order through Twin Cities - Sue is great by the way! I already have the tubing so Im ready to follow Tom's tutorial. I think I am going to sleeve it with PVC first like I did on my Grady. That way if the orings ever fail they wont get the wood wet.

[img]http://www.whalercentral.com/images/photoalbum_3/useralbum_29/0604081522_t1.jpg[/img]

The only other question at this point is the top of the transom - There is this lip all the way accross that looks green. I think its supposed to be that way but just want to be sure.

I will keep everyone posted as I progress. My current plans are to patch up the blisters and transom, replace the through hulls and then drop her in for a test run before going any further.

Comments are welcome and suggestions and advice would be much appreciated.
Thanks guys
Scott

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Scott -- Looks like you are having a great time. I have never seen anything like those blisters you have -- are those contagious? The green line on top of the transom is factory and looks pretty good in the pictures you showed. I common problem here is splitting and such but yours looks good.

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Thanks Rob. The green line is in nice shape all things considered.

I am guessing blisters -- When I hit that area with the power washer white specks started shooting off. I assume maybe water got behind the gel in that area? Its not all the way down as you can see so I am a bit confused... realize that doesn't take much..lol

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Scott,

You decided to keep the boat? Good for you. I think you will be very happy with it once finished and refitted.

---

Jeff,

Yeah I decided to hang on to her. I started doing some work for the sale and remembered why I bought it in the first place. I will get her right. It will take time but I think it will time well spent.

What do you think of those "blisters"? Do you think thats what it is or something else?

Also did you get anywhere with the red rub rail. My contact has not gotten back to me.

Thanks! B)

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If you are sleeving the drain tube holes with PVC, to keep moisture out of the hull, I don`t see the need to resleeve them again with brass. When I did the drain tubes on my 13 footer, I just used PVC, and epoxied them in, and they are forever. No need for brass. They`re is a diameter of PVC that matches the drain plug exactly, and will hold it tight.

rich

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If you are sleeving the drain tube holes with PVC, to keep moisture out of the hull, I don`t see the need to resleeve them again with brass. When I did the drain tubes on my 13 footer, I just used PVC, and epoxied them in, and they are forever. No need for brass. They`re is a diameter of PVC that matches the drain plug exactly, and will hold it tight.

rich

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Scott if you pull the drain for thee anchor locker, snap some pics and get some dimensions for me please. When I do (or have done by someone else) the glass work on my gunnels, I am going to have a factory outrage anchor locker grafted in my bow area and will need that drain tube/fitting. Glad your keeping the boat too, it will be ideal after you move down here. ;)

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Binkie, Thanks for the tip. I really didnt think about it that way. When I did the Grady I was installing those flapper type of scuppers. I still think I may stick with the brass through the pvc for the proper look of the above waterline drains. Do you have any pics of your install of them? Does the pvc discolor?

Bob, I will be pulling that drain as the plastic part on the outside of the hull is broken off. I will take pics of the locker for you and measure it up next week. Your right it will the perfect boat for down there!

---

Ok boys - here is where I am at today. I got the rest of the paint off the sides and transom. I then sanded it to remove the residue. The starboard side came up pretty good.
[IMG]http://www.whalercentral.com/images/photoalbum/album_28/0605081502_t1.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://www.whalercentral.com/images/photoalbum/album_28/0605081654_t1.jpg[/IMG]

The port side - the one with the "blisters" had areas under the paint that had been sanded down to the green at some point. Im thinking based on the condition of that side of the boat that maybe it got more sun exposure. There are more cracks in the gel on that side and its the only area that has the divots.
[IMG]http://www.whalercentral.com/images/photoalbum/album_28/0605081648_t1.jpg[/IMG]

Here is an overall shot.
[IMG]http://www.whalercentral.com/images/photoalbum/album_28/0604081613_t1.jpg[/IMG]

Well thats about it for now..... Heading down the shore for the weekend. Wont be back to it till early next week. The motor covers should be back from the painter by then too!! :D:D

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Scott,
I had similar blisters in my gelcoat, though it didn't matter much since all the gelcoat was taken off anyway. Before I ground off all the gel, some of the blisters were visible as they are in your pictures, and others were still loosely covered with flaking gelcoat. Here's the bad news... I found even more during the grinding process that weren't visible at all. I'm not trying to be the bearer of bad news, but those blisters might be more extensive that what you see now. Looks like a fun project though, keep posting!
Jeff

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Thanks Jeff. It seems the pressure washer is what brings them up. Im thinking when it comes time to strip the rest of the bottom Im gonna go soda blast. My last soda blast experience was not fun but I got a good recommendation on another guy I want to try. When all is said and done the whole boat will need to be re gelcoated or awlgripped.

What are you doing with yours? Paint or Gel? Have you cleaned up that dust yet?...lol

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Scott,
Your hard work is starting to show.She looks GREAT !
Thanks for for sharing.

Best Regards,
Richard

---

Thanks Richard. Its truly a labor of love.

---

Well I had to move her inside as the weather here has been unbearable hot. Cant seem to catch a break with weather.

I have pulled all the transom through hulls... or at least what was left of them and the transom wood seems very wet. It doesn't seem soft just wet... I have fans blowing through each of the three holes to see if it will dry out at all. If the wood is still solid should I worry about this?

---

Would putting her back outside help drying her out?

---

It might - but it seems every time I put her outside - which is hard as it gets blocked in - we have rain or something that makes it futile. Im just hoping that is will dry ok and not be damaged. I would hate to rip the transom out of this thing.

---

I did drill a 1/2 hole in the bottom - just ahead of the wood - The foam there was dry... really surprised me how dry it was. The holes in the wood of the transom reveal wet wood in different areas... This concerns me... No pics of this as it was too hard to get.

---

I give you credit for working on your boat in the heat we've been having... I've given up and am waiting for cooler weather (I'll take anything in the 80's at this point!). To answer your questions, I'm going with gel, an no- I haven't cleaned up the dust yet. I thought I did, but then it reappeared. I think it will be a never ending battle, even years after the baot is complete.

---

I actually gave up trying to work in this crazy heat and rearranged my work garage to fit her in. Took two days of work but I got it done.

I say this from experience... you will be finding dust from your project forever! That stuff is relentless.

---

Ok - I let the fans work for a bit - Things seem to have dried nicely. So today I fabbed up a custom hole cutter to fit in my PVC sleeves.
[IMG]http://www.whalercentral.com/images/photoalbum/album_28/whaleroutrage009_t1.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://www.whalercentral.com/images/photoalbum/album_28/whaleroutrage010_t1.jpg[/IMG]

The PVC insert on the cutter keeps it centered on the existing hole - The extension was required to get to the lower drain from the fish box - That will be about a 6 inch tube.

Here is the result

The port transom splashwell drain
[IMG]http://www.whalercentral.com/images/photoalbum/album_28/whaleroutrage007_t1.jpg[/IMG]

Here is a piece of PVC for test fitting.
[IMG]http://www.whalercentral.com/images/photoalbum/album_28/whaleroutrage004_t1.jpg[/IMG]

Roughly what it will look like in place with epoxy.
[IMG]http://www.whalercentral.com/images/photoalbum/album_28/whaleroutrage006_t1.jpg[/IMG]

Gonna give her another 24 hours on the fans then install the pipe. The first layer of wood was a bit gooey (what I cut out with the hole saw) - but I appear to have good wood just beyond - When I poke it with a small screwdriver it doesn't stick so that seems to be a good sign.

Sorry for the pics - the boat is inside my work garage and lighting is an issue in the back - the flash of the camera made it a bit bright.

More to follow.

---

Great documentation Scott.
I found a pvc tube in my 1984 Outrage 20 when I replaced them all.
It seemed to work fine. Mine wasn't epoxied in either. It was just held in place with sealer. But, I don't think it leaked at all.
Best of luck with your project.

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Thanks - I did this same drain tube project on a Grady Gulfstream last year. It came out great. If that o-ring is ever to leak it will never get inside the foam or wood. I plan to keep documenting the things I am doing to this boat on this thread. Piece by piece I hope to make her something to be proud of. Thanks for the encouraging words... they do help!

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Looking forward to more posts Scott, enjoyed following your progress so far, and even learned a thing or two! Keep it up, she'll be well worth the effort without question. Love the twins on the back too!

---

Scott,

Nice jig for boring!

---

Thanks Jeff - its one of the advantages of having access to a mill and a lathe. That plug keeps it perfectly centered in the hole so you are making the hole bigger in all the right places. The first time I tried to do one of these last year on another boat I found out right away that you need something to hold it center or the hole saw will just "walk". If you ever need one made up let me know - I would be glad to help you out for a change.

I took some parts for my 13 to Frankford Plating yesterday morning so I also took some 19 parts.

Here are all the parts from the 19 ready to be rechromed. The plater says 2 to 3 weeks - Seemed very familiar with the Whaler parts.
[IMG]http://www.whalercentral.com/images/photoalbum/album_28/0729081248_t1.jpg[/IMG]

Today I will be cutting my pvc inserts and prepping for their install. I only have a half day at the shop so we will see how far I get.

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It is killing me to watch all this progress you have going on Scott. I have mine all cut up and the foam will be drying out for some time still before she starts to go back together. I have also been slammed every weekend so it seems like nothing is happening. Glad things are moving along with your project.:D

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Thanks Rob - You helped me get the motivation to get started - you were flying with yours and I was nowhere - I had to get my butt in gear. Trust me you will get caught up and pull ahead - my life is full of adventure and projects - Just today I got down to our shore house and decided to change the filters on my Grady... Well one was perfect and the other was well - Ewwww...
Now I have the floor up trying to figure things out - checking for crossed fuel lines, leaking fuel fills, etc, etc...

I have a thread going on at my local fishing site about it...
http://www.thebassbarn.com/forum/show...p?t=143962

Never ever a dull moment when you own so many boats....lol

---

Ok - now back to the Outrage project....

This morning I prepped the three through hulls - I put unthickened epoxy in each hole as a primer of sorts - I then sanded the exterior of PVC pipe inserts to ensure good adhesion. The next step was to coat the inside of the pipes with grease - This keeps the epoxy that gets inside from sticking - trust me it will get inside! - I then coated the pipe with my epoxy/microfiber mixture and coated the inside of the hole with the same - Then you insert the pipe into the hole and line it up. Then clean up the excess epoxy mess. Vinegar is a Godsend for this. I only have a few pics as I was messy and couldnt touch the camera too much.

Here is the pipe coated with Epoxy/Microfibers...
[IMG]http://www.whalercentral.com/images/photoalbum/album_28/0619081020_t1.jpg[/IMG]

Here is what it looks like after it inserted - Told you its messy!!
[IMG]http://www.whalercentral.com/images/photoalbum/album_28/0619081021_t1.jpg[/IMG]

Then of course cleaned up and waiting to cure.
[IMG]http://www.whalercentral.com/images/photoalbum/album_28/0619081037_t1_1.jpg[/IMG]

Well thats it for this week - I am away for the weekend - I will be back at it next week!

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Got the motor covers back yesterday - My garage project is just about finished so she should be back inside today or tommorrow...
[IMG]http://www.whalercentral.com/images/photoalbum/album_28/0630081457_t1.jpg[/IMG]

I still need to decide what to do with the decals - and the lower units - The paint is good - but no where near as shiny. I may shoot them with clear to get them to match better. The starboard motor lower unit was already waxed and it just doesn't shine like the covers.

---

Looks like you had a pretty good week of work on the outrage. I got a bit done myself this weekend. Be sure to check out my progress.

---

Got her back in the garage today - Put her on the cradle I built for my Rage - it held - but I think when I get it in place I will sure it up with Jack stands to be safe. It was quite a process but my 11 year old son and I got it done in about 30 minutes.

Here it is ready to go - I strapped the stand to the trailer and then anchored the boat to a heavy object...(my forklift)
[IMG]http://www.whalercentral.com/images/photoalbum/album_28/0701081650_t1.jpg[/IMG]

Pulled the trailer out slowly and the boat transfers from the trailer to the dolly...

Here she is ready to be somewhat easily moved around the shop - I will now get to work on the trailer - servicing bearings and bunks etc...

[IMG]http://www.whalercentral.com/images/photoalbum/album_28/0701081705a_t1.jpg[/IMG]

Hopefully when I go to the shop tomorrow she will still be standing....

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Wow,

That little trailer might just be the thing for my girl.
Any specs about the measurements and materials used?
The wheels seems to be 6" ?
My thoughts were on a similar way to take my girl of her trailer and put her on some "car wheel caddies" modified that is and put her in my garage for the colder months.
I was looking at the site today and there it it..

Wishing You Well,

Serge.:)

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Serge - The cross beams are 4 x 6 pressure treated - The bunks are two 4x4 pressure treated 8 footers. - The casters were professional grade - rated for 1000 pounds each - poly coated. They do make these stands out of metal - two smaller ones per boat - They have them on dealer showrooms.

---

Well I ran into a problem today..... I came in the shop this morning and a small puddle of water was on the floor towards the front of the boat - I got on the ground and looked under and found an old bad patch that was dripping water - It had been hidden by the keel roller of the trailer - Im guessing sliding it off the trailer disturbed it and now its revealing something I really dont want to see....water... any thoughts?
[IMG]http://www.whalercentral.com/images/photoalbum/album_28/0702081344_t1.jpg[/IMG]

---

Is your hull slightly tilted forward or totally plumb?
Is there abrasions on the front section of the keel?
From your posted pictures, I see a small gouge on the bow..could be a possible point of entry.? I would survey the hull with a plastic hammer to see if there is a possibility of an air pocket.. that may have filled. Go at it with a lighted magnifying glass/lamp (as I have on my desk computer) and carefully crawl on the front section to find a point of exit for this water.I hope that no one is pulling a joke on you...:o

---

PS, Now that I used the magnify option, I can see the patch..up close.
Can't be a major as it's not gushing out..
You will have to take carefully; the old patch off ans assess your degree of invasion by putting a bucket under and seeing how much for how long.
The rest depend on the degree of saturation.
I was thinking of possibly putting my 19 upside down on skids to do hull repairs but am unsure that the "cap" integrity would take the 1500 LBS weight..

Serge.

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Thanks Serge - I plan on pulling the patch today and seeing what happens. I have had a large hole drilled in the bottom rear of the boat - Have had some water drain out - but basically just a damp spot every 24 hours or so - I had the boat tilted towards the rear up till this point - Now its completely flat - Once the patch is off I will probably tilt it to the bow and let it sit while I am on vacation next week -

I would not flip onto its cap - I really dont think the cap is made to support the hull. Just my opinion though - maybe others have better experience with this. If you have the means to flip you could make stands that would support the boat by the floor - sort of like sawhorses that would fit in between the cap. I cant imagine it would be easy to flip though.... and make sure the gas tank is capped or empty.... That would be a mess.

---

Got her in the corner of the shop and up on jackstands so I could get access to the patch area.

[IMG]http://www.whalercentral.com/images/photoalbum/album_28/0703080900_t1.jpg[/IMG]

I then drilled a one inch hole through the patched area. The initial bit of foam was wet - but the rest of the core sample was white and dry.

[IMG]http://www.whalercentral.com/images/photoalbum/album_28/0703080911_t1.jpg[/IMG]

I then went forward on the keel and drilled another hole - No water in this hole - The foam felt like it was slightly moist - but not soaked.

So as it stands - I have a one inch hole in the forward part of the keel - another about 6 feet back from that - and another at the stern. The front most one is not dripping at all - The mid and back are dripping - about a drop of water every minute or so. I have left for vacation - I put buckets under each whole - when I get back (a week from Monday) I guess we shall see where we are at.

---

Scott - how if the refit going on your 19. I have not seen a post lately and like to follow your work.

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Hey Rob,

Well she has been sitting with the buckets under the holes since the beginning of July. I would say the front bucket (5 gallon size) has about an inch of water in it... The rear not enough to coat the bottom. We are leaving next week for a 3 week hiatus in the RV so I really didnt want to do much before then. I figured I would just let is sit and drain for a bit. I will try and pull the gas tank floor up early next week before I leave. I have been derigging the console this week - what a mess of unused wires that was!

Thanks for checking in! I too have been keeping tabs on yours - Looks like you are way ahead of me at this point.

---

Enjoy your vacation - (RV+Gas=$$$). I would not say I am way ahead. I did go to Gulf Coast Boats this week and have them building my tunnel. It should be ready next week but I will be down at the coast in our new place. I really need to flip mine and start working on stripping it down. I have been playing with the console and letting mine sit to dry out. I want to get along with the glass work so I can move on to something that resembles forward progress not ripping out. ;)

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Hey Scott,
If in doubt, You can always carefully open her up..and reseal her later.
I am glad that I did and am studying to open her up again at the bait well.
I'll see.
Hopefully the gas prices won't rise up while you are traveling.:@

Cheers,B)

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Thanks guys... I for one am not worrying about gas prices... I am in it for the fun... the rest will fall in place. I have boated more this year then ever and the RV well its just one of lifes pleasures for me.

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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TqLG7b...qLG7bVA-dk
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4fyS5C...fyS5CLBgyM

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LMAO Jeff. thank for that ..

There is always this scene from RV....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=faUBbz...aUBbz_EncE

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Scott - I can see now that you have way to many toys! That is one fine RV -- Do you need a pilots license to drive that thing? :o

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Thanks Rob, no special license.... crazy I know. Im basically one of those guys... if it has a motor - I'm in!

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Hello from Sunny Florida everyone! I did get some work done on the Outrage the day before we left - I felt I needed to keep up with Rob and Serge! Now I have three weeks to plan my attack when I return!

Got the 13 and 19 parts back from Frankford plating.... They look great!
[img]http://www.whalercentral.com/images/photoalbum/album_28/0729081248_t1.jpg[/img]

I Pulled the Rubrail and Receiver off.... Man it was dirty and buggy behind there!
[img]http://www.whalercentral.com/images/photoalbum/album_28/0730081136a_t1.jpg[/img]

Pulled the floor up over the gas tank and vent line.....
[img]http://www.whalercentral.com/images/photoalbum/album_28/0730081513_t1.jpg[/img]

The tank was sitting in water - This boat has been inside for quite some time and there is still alot of water around the tank...
[img]http://www.whalercentral.com/images/photoalbum/album_28/0730081507_t1.jpg[/img]

Well thats it for now..... Time to relax on vacation... I will be checking in though.

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I think that you are getting in the feel of things now...and there is no turning back.
It will feel good to make things right again.
Yea, I've had a look at your starboard transom section and the gap looks suspiciously familiar. Have a look at the aluminum bracket holding the cap to the hull. I bet that the fasteners have come adrift. Yo will have to clean and reset in place. notice the clamp on my port section.
Your tank should have had a small amount of foam bordering it.It is possible that your tank has been replaced already. I would pull it out ,inspect the surfaces and put a protective coating before resetting it to use.
It is to be noted that my hull doesn't have this tunnel seen on the top left area of your tank hold..
Good work Scott.
PS- I wonder how Rob is fearing with his project..:)

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Ok its been a while and I am back from vacation - Finally got to put some work into her this week. First thing I accomplished was pulling the tank out.

[img]http://www.whalercentral.com/images/photoalbum/album_28/outrage003_t1.jpg[/img]

[img]http://www.whalercentral.com/images/photoalbum/album_28/outrage004_t1.jpg[/img]

[img]http://www.whalercentral.com/images/photoalbum/album_28/outrage005_t1.jpg[/img]

I then cut two holes to inspect the foam for water - I found that the foam overall was dry - There is some water at the very bottom - about 1/4" of saturation at both the front of the fuel tank well and the rear. - Both areas had discolored foam at the top where it met the fiberglass as well - but the areas in between seem dry.

[IMG]http://www.whalercentral.com/images/photoalbum/album_28/0903081508a_t1.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://www.whalercentral.com/images/photoalbum/album_28/0903081508_t1.jpg[/IMG]

[img]http://www.whalercentral.com/images/photoalbum/album_28/0903081634_t1.jpg[/img]
For some reason I forgot to take a picture of the big area cleaned out - I will do that tomorrow.


Well thats it for now - I have been stripping all the hardware off the hull and console - removing the wood etc. My plan is to have the boat ready for fiberglass work with a few weeks. I plan on leaving the areas open as long as I can to dry out as much as possible.

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Hey, Scott,

Don't you feel good about knowing that your foam has little water contamination?
I would tilt the bow up as much as possible and see if you have some water migrating to the low stern area.I have removed a few cups of drippings by drilling a 1/2" hole by the stern bottom.
The rear through hull drain tube was practically eroded on the wet side.Also your stern gaping section could be a part of the problem.
You are doing just great!
If all goes well your refit should go smoothly.
Fantastic work Scott, wish I was there to help.B)

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Thanks Serge, I wish you were here to help too!

---

Wow - You guys are motivated. I am falling way behind as I spent most of August fishing and hanging at the new beach house. Oh well? I did get my tunnel from Gulf Coast boats a few weeks back. My father picked it up in Houston and brought it to me at the beach when they came to visit one weekend. It looks great -- now I just need to have it put in. By the way Scott, I agree with Serge on the tank. It has definitely been pulled before. Did you ever figure out if it was replaced? Just a good tip I saw here once -- write in Sharpie the date and work done on top of your tank (ie.. hoses replaced, tested, for leaks, etc...) Next time it is opened there will be a record for you or the next owner.

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Hey Rob - good to hear from you - glad you are enjoying your summer!

I believe the tank was pulled - not sure it was replaced though - I plan on putting a new tank in - I've come this far - no point in putting something questionable back in - I do have some concerns with the way the vent line is run - It really seems to be the source of water intake into the cavity - I will need to give it some more thought -

I know I will be adding some sort of drain to the rear of the cavity as well - I don't want water problems anymore.

Thanks for the tip on writing it down on the tank - its a great idea...

---

By the way -- how did you like digging the foam out? Is that not just a royal pain in the ass! I picked up a few tricks from the local boat guy. A wire brush on a drill will cut that stuff like butter. I used a dowel cut-off saw which is very thin and flexible to cut out chunks. Then I would follow up with the wire brush to really cut out the stuff left and clean up the glass underneath. I had even thought about a making a foam cutting wire to speed things up. I read that bad toxins are released when you cut this kind of foam.

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Believe it or not I pried it out bit by bit with a 2" wide putty knife. No fun at all. I have many cuts and bruises to prove it - In the one picture of the round hole you can actually see my blood to the right side of the hole.

I would not want to think about doing any area larger than already have. Oh yeah and the smell when you get to the wet area.... or when you pull the gas tank floor up for the first time... well lets just say that gives the sewer a run for its money.

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Here is the pic I promised early - The cutout section in the rear of the gas tank cavity all cleaned out of foam.

[IMG]http://www.whalercentral.com/images/photoalbum/album_28/0904081619_t1.jpg[/IMG]

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Oooooooo that smell - can't you smell that smell. I still have a real recollection of that odor. It may never go away.

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Scott,
She's looking GREAT!
I need to catch up with you guys.Great detailed work!

Best Regards,
Richard

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What smell?
There's no smell here!!
Don't know what you're talking about...:o

---

And how's my buddy Scott doing?

I had heard through the grapevine that you were shopping for a shop to to some Gel resurfacing..:)
How's that coming along?

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Im doing great Serge - been busy stripping the hull down - there is a lot to do - it surprised me - and of course some hardware is really fighting me - thank God for the dremel.

I have three shops to talk to now - all want to see the boat - I have to get it back on the trailer to do that -

The good news - The two open areas of the boat have been dry for days now - but I will leave them open till the last minute.

Thanks for checking in - I will post some pics when I'm done taking all the stuff off....

---

Scott - did you send off you bright work or do you have a local contact that does re-plating? Your parts look good and I have a few pieces I need to get done -- were they expensive? There is a local bumper shop here that I need to check out but we will see.

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I took them to Frankford Plating in Philadelphia - I took a while but the job was worth it. The cost was $450.00 - This included the bow eye and transom eyes for my 13 as well.

You can ship to them direct or you could send to me and I will take it there personally. Whichever works for you - You can PM me if you would like Rob.

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Thanks for the info Scott - I am going to go talk to these guys locally. If I do not have any luck I will PM you about your source. Thanks for the information.

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Thought I would post some more pics of the tear down process. I will be ready to pull the motors next week. Then I will take it to the three shops I have in mind to get some estimates on the re gelcoating.

Here is the stripped console..... quite ugly isnt it?
[IMG]http://www.whalercentral.com/images/photoalbum/album_28/0911081439_t1.jpg[/IMG]

Had some trouble getting the cleats off - This one had some severe corrosion on the underside.... That screw is fused to the cleat now...
[img]http://www.whalercentral.com/images/photoalbum/album_28/0911081431_t1.jpg[/img]

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One motor off - one to go.... I really wish I wouldn't have put it so far in the corner of the shop.

[img]http://www.whalercentral.com/images/photoalbum/album_28/0922081703_t1.jpg[/img]

[img]http://www.whalercentral.com/images/photoalbum/album_28/0922081621_t1.jpg[/img]

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Scott - It looks like there are to many holes drilled for the motor. Did the previous owner move it several times or something. I assume you are going to epoxy in some dowels and fill these up. Make sure to measure out the holes where they are today -- you do not want to have the same thing happen to you. I guess you could just leave the proper holes open. I have been know to go a little over board when working on things. I want mine to be hole free when I start to rig it out.

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Scott and Rob,

While you guys have your consoles off is there a chance you guys could get and publish measurements like these. If you do not have photoshop skills send me the images and a sketch with detailed dimensions and I would be happy to do it.

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Jeff - I need to measure mine for my windshield replacement. I also have photo shop skills that should make this easy enough. Give me some time and I will get them over to you for posting.

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Looks like you will soon be addressing the resurfacing of the transom.
I have had the same issues with a certain number of holes drilled for past installations.
I have the chain fall but will have to solve the support to be able to remove my outboard.This to be able to inspect and resurface this specific area in it's entirety.
If it helps you for future installation of power,"My Girl" came with a large piece of stainless bolted to the inside transom section for beefing up the support for power.I will be leaving the plate on for added stability.

Great work Scott my friend..

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Hey guys - yeah it appears that there has been many single and dual motor combination over the years. I will be filling in all the holes except for the correct set for the twin application. I am thinking of sleeveing those holes to prevent any water intrusion in the transom if the sealant ever leaks.

Ok well I have both motors off now..... Here are some progress pics and a pic of my custom motor stand.

[img]http://www.whalercentral.com/images/photoalbum/album_28/0923080928_t1.jpg[/img]

[img]http://www.whalercentral.com/images/photoalbum/album_28/0923080928a_t1.jpg[/img]

[img]http://www.whalercentral.com/images/photoalbum/album_28/0923080943a_t1.jpg[/img]

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Jeff would you like me to measure mine as well? I'm sure its the same as Rob's as our boats are of similar age. Let me know.

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I like the motor stand. If I had my boat at the office I would never get anything done. When I had the dealership building I could go out and work on the boat -- it sure was nice to have that option when you were slow.

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Well its been a while - I figured I would post an update. I contracted a local shop to do all the gelcoat work - She is scheduled to go in December 1st. They will be removing the cap - grinding out all the cracks and crazing etc... and regelcoating the whole hull inside and out - new deck skid and all. Then the cap will be put back on and regelcoated as well. The deck hatches will all be recored. The console will be refinished as well They figure it will take about 4 months to complete. It wont be cheap but I figure I will have a new Whaler when I am done.

When I get it back a new fuel system, rub rail, wiring and new twin 90hp motors - I am leaning towards the new Suzuki's.

I of course will visit regularly and take photos and post them here.

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Scott, great to see you here again and the "project" sounds wonderful ! Hope to see you in NY soon and again in June for alittle get together !! Jim

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Scott - For your reference, here are a few more photos of mine. After these were taken, the boat is now totally upgraded, converted to single engine, and ready for service. As you can see, only the red rubrail has to be replaced!!! Maybe new Mills canvas also. New photos soon.

http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v42...rage%2019/

Since you're staying with twins, I have the original twin engine Morse "red knob" MT-2 control, with neutral safety switches, if you're interested. Only downside is no trim control in the handles.

You will have a knock-out boat when completed, with that new gelcoat job. Are you going to try to match the original outside and inside colors?

On the fuel system, I installed the Mercury style (compact) water sep filter behind the little plastic panel, under the narrow "stern seat". (look for the 3 big screws holding it in the photos) The fuel line then runs over to the Port side, fitted with an "ell", and back to the engine with primer bulb. I put blank plates over the the two rubber boot rigging ports, and am not using them, instead using the smaller openings under the cross member. This keeps all rigging way off on the sides, and not in the way of the teak well cover.

The all original console, designed way too low, is raised 4" on teak riser blocks and beam.

PS: Left a message at Barbour today, no return call. Hopefully tomorrow!

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Scott my friend,

It is good to see you back.

I can only see the movie RV so many times in thinking about you guys.:D
In shorts and; you'll pardon the pun here;
It is great to hear of how your refit is progressing.
I have been planning my phase two on my own project here;
The deck.
As discussed before there is about 80% of factory non skid on the surfaces and I am at school to a plan of actions to renew the surfaces.
I will be keenly listening to your progressions on your favorite project now..
I know that at the completion of your refit,and after viewing your photo gallery;
My one word comment will be OUTRAGEOUS!!:P

I've got your six!

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Thanks Guys!

I am thinking about switching her to desert tan or something of the like - Since the boat is not going to be original - (im replacing the wood doors with something nicer, repowering with 4 strokes, hydraulic steering, etc) I can move on the color a little - It just have to look nice with the red rubrail and logo....

Anyone have any other color ideas?

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Scott my Friend,

It seems that on my reasonably well preserved unit;
My hull color is light or pale Grey.
The upper deck is Desert Tan.
The cap itself is also Desert Tan .
But then again,I have been told that on another unit of the same year;
The cap gel is "another undetermined " color..
For the sake of uniformness, I have resurfaced my cap in Desert Tan gel.
I will also be doing the deck in this color and will redo the hull in the original factory Grey.
I must ad that the resurfaced cap looks absolutely splendid in the new gel.
It is really up to you to pick and decide which color your eye will get along with Scott.
As I have understood that you are thinking of her as a family member by now..:)

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Just want to toss in a thought... I've just picked up a '77 outrage 19.5 and I notice you use pvc to replace the 'thru hull's" as an inner protection. I don't know if pvc has any adhesion to epoxy beyond a mechanical joint and wonder why you don't use fiberglass tube to insure a chemical and mechanical joint.
I don't want to "break" the string and maybe this deserves a new "string" but I am new to Whaler's and Whalercentral so if someone knows more then please post a quick reply.
Thanks, Mike

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Mike,

I have used this method on several boats now. If you sand the surface of the pvc the epoxy adheres very well. Many other members have used this same method. Your idea of fiberglass tube has merit as well - Not sure how readily available the fiberglass tube is in various sizes.

Scott

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Scott, thanks for the response, I can only guess you have better things to be doing. I have seen the fiberglass tubes available as replacement shaft logs for inboards. I have one on my sailboat, thus without real research, it would no doubt be available in sizes over 1".
Your project is much more advanced then I have envisioned on my Outrage but I would really like to incorporate much that I learn from yours to improve on my Outrage. Please keep up the outstanding refurbishment and improvements on the original design.
Mike

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No problem Mike - Let me know what you decided. I hope to be posting some updates on the boat soon.... She is in the shop right now - They are poppping the top off and prepping the boat for all new Gelcoat.

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Hey Scott,

Good the hear from you again.
You know what?
Would it be at all possible for you to describe in detail the step by step method that you have successfully used in lining up the through brass drains with the PVC.
I do recall of you talking about it before.
I think that would be a good and useful one here.
I for one will be examining your method as my tubes have been bought but not installed as of yet.
Cheers!:)

Serge.

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And how are things going with your famous refit Scott??B)

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Serge, I wish I had good news to report... so far the progress has been slow and I have been really busy with work so I haven't been able to get up and see it. I did request a status late last week and it didnt seem like it was too far along yet.

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That's OK, Buddy,
As long as you have the time to keep an eye on it from time to time.
On mine I've been busy getting the snow off the roof of the garage.
Got caught once;
thinking that the metal structure of the roofing ribs could handle the weight.
I had to weld and repair the tubular structures.
I won't be so trusting again..
She is doing fine and awaits warmer weathers so that the work will begin again.
I have kept busy thinking about having a self managed Whaler draw for the guys..
And this just to keep life interesting in those overcast months.
Looking at the churning of the engine in full reverse, I may just have to rename this project "The Great Whaler Waffle".:o
I hope that you will see the humor in this Scott,


Serge.

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Here are some udated pictures of the project. You will see that the cap has been removed. The hull has been flipped. Lots of cracks have been ground out already and the bottom paint has been removed to reveal some ugly old repairs that had been made.

See Project Album for pics

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See project album for pics.

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Well the cap is back on! The boat is really starting to take shape again. I have added a couple of pics to my project album.


[img]http://www.whalercentral.com/images/photoalbum_3/useralbum_29/capbackon.jpg[/img]

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I have a question that I hope this group can help with.

What is an exceptible weight for a 1970's vintage 19-4 Whaler outrage outboard set-up? Given the age of these boat and the inevitable water absorbing into the foam issue many older whaler seem to have.

Whaler said they weighed 1,500-1,600 lbs off the line.

I have one that weighs 2,400 lbs What to do?

Thank you in advance....Luke
p.s. this is my 1st post on this website, and I'm not sure it went out to more than just one person.

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2400 pounds with the motor and accessories? Any fuel in the tank?

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HI,

No motor, about 3/4 tank of fuel (25-30 gallons), and around 100 lbs of extra stuff; rear seat, anchor & chain, along with some other small stuff.

How bad is it?

Thanks...Luke

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Luke,

How did you weigh the boat without the trailer?
Or did you weigh it with the trailer and deducting that from the total?

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HI,

The trailer weight was deducted from the total.

Can my boat be holding somewhere around 100-120 gallons of water in the hull? Have you ever heard of that? And if so is it DOA?

...Luke

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So 2400 pounds - Minus 180 pounds for gas. Minus 100 pounds of misc stuff = 2120 pounds. So in reality you are about 520 pounds heavy. (I assume you weighed trailer seperate and didnt rely on a document to tell you what the trailer weighs).

Based on that one could assume you have about 62 gallons of water in the hull. Not improbably and certainly not the end of the boat.

Have you put it in the water? Check the water line on the transom. As long as the scuppers are at water level or above it you should be good to go.

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Scott,

Thanks for the reply. I have seen the boat in the water with a 150hp (25 inch shaft) Johnson on the transom, and the scuppers were nominally 2 inches above the waterline. I have also seen, and taken pictures of, some other same vintage 19-4's, and they all seem to have more or less the same waterline with the same HP motors. It was weighed on a scale at the local dump (MDI Maine) and I just found out the total with the trailer no motor was 3,200 lbs.

Someone has basically given me this boat. Before I start a time consuming, and costly restoration project, I wanted to have some idea (from people who know) if the boat is worth saving, i.e. putting $$$ into. It is not in bad shape all the original hardware, console, and woodwork are still there. The floor and transom seem good, no soft spots anyway. It needs a fair bit of glass work, some parts replaced, and a lot of TLC to be back on the water next summer.

I’m not looking to show it at the next whaler regatta, just have a reasonably good boat that can get me around the inner islands of MDI.

Sounds like a go?

…Luke

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Sounds like a go to me - If you look over my pictures I have poured a ton of money in mine... but I will have a 72 19 Whaler that will be brand new.

PS _ they need 20" shafts....

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You will be well advised to;
1-Drain all the gas in the tank.
2-Remove anchor and anything that is not fastened down.
3-Make an accurate allowance for railings, fittings and all electrical wiring.
4- Verify the exact weight of the trailer by weighing the trailer by itself without the boat.
5-Weight the boat and trailer again and do the math.
6-Make sure that the scale that you will use is certified and accurate.
You should be within 1500 to 1700 LBS for the hull.
If a bit more heavy you can always blame it on the five gallons of water that your gas tank is bathing in, below the gas tank cover.
A bit here a bit there;
It will all ad up in the end.
If still to heavy;
Take steps to locate the source.

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All,

Thank you for your good council on this boat project. I think I will stay the course with this boat (given I already have the trailer and motor for it) and try to rehab it for next summer. I doubt that this hull will ever weigh 15-1700 lbs again, but should be usable as is in any case.
I figure that I'll be into the entire project for $2,500 in the end, and that is less than a 3 week rental. With that boating reality, come next year I’ll be a boat ahead.


….Luke

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Well the sanding and polishing continue. The shine is really starting to come through. Click on photo to enlarge.

[img]http://www.whalercentral.com/images/photoalbum_3/useralbum_29/gettingthere.jpg[/img]

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Looks delicious...

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Looks like money extremely well spent Scott...
How does it feel to have one of the Most attractive Outrage 19 Worldwide?

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Thanks Jeff!

Serge, it feels pretty good. I have this goal of having a brand new classic 19 Outrage and for the first time I feel like I am going to achieve that goal. Its pretty cool.

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Scott,
She looks very sexy...you'll find yourself just staring at her every chance you get.
WTG Scott!

Richard

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Looks Fantastic Scott! What was the final color you ended up going with? (Can't really tell on my monitior, know you were thinking of Desert Tan for a while)

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Desert tan it is. I really like the color - its quite stunning in person. In the picture the boat looks wet but its dry. I cant wait to see it when the sanding and polishing done. There are a few areas that didn't come out as well as we hoped so they were re-shot.

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How did they handle the non-skid? Seems to be a difficult challenge when regelcoating.

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For the deck the non skid and gelcoat was ground off - Then a gibco (spelling not sure) flex mold was purchased. There are two ways to proceed from there. The way we went was to pour epoxy on the deck and lay the pattern on top of it. When it cured it was an epoxy non skid. Then you can spray the gelcoat on it like the rest of the boat.

The second way to do it is to grind it all down but pour gelcoat instead of epoxy. Hindsight being what it is that may have been the better route. We shall see.

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Scott,
So you went with the Gibco non-skid product?
How did you like the result?and where did you apply on the boat (all your non-skid area?)
To ask for pics. would be useless..being that it's so small to even tell.

Richard

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Richard, Yes we went with the Gibco product. Its like a flexible sheet of rubber or plastic. I think it turns out nice. We redid all the factory non skid on the floors as the existing was crazed like the rest of the boat. The non skid part is the last to get new gelcoat so I have only seen a small area where it was test sprayed and buffed. Its tough to say until you see the whole thing. I will do my best to take pics when that part is finished.

Scott

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In the West System article on non-skid repair, they do it the same way, pouring the gelcoat and using the Gibco mold. But I've never heard of anyone who's tried it up to this point, especially for all the non-skid and not just a repaired section. Looking forward to hearing your impressions of how it turned out.

Do you know how big the sheet was from Gibco?

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I know the sheet was available in several sizes and it was quite expensive. I'm not sure of the actual size he used. I do know it had to be done in sections.

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Picked up a new (to me) motor for the 19 - I decided to go with a Suzuki 140 4 stroke - found this 2008 motor with less than 10 hours on it - Had to take a 19 Larson bowrider and trailer with it - I have 6 boats right now - Will be selling the 19 on ebay in a week or so - May have to consider selling the little Rage as well - just too much going on....

[img]http://www.whalercentral.com/images/photoalbum_3/useralbum_29/suzukiwc0001_t2.jpg[/img]

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Good and affordable choice Scott.
Feel free to elaborate on the events leading to your choice.

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Check out my project album for updates..... Here are some teasers...

[img]http://www.whalercentral.com/images/photoalbum_3/useralbum_29/wcconsole0001_t2.jpg[/img]

[img]http://www.whalercentral.com/images/photoalbum_3/useralbum_29/wcinterior0001_t2.jpg[/img]

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Scott - that boat is going to be a knockout when you're done. Great workmanship and attention to detail. You're going to love it when you get it in the water. And of course the new red rubrail system will be the finishing touch!

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Thanks Larry - its been a long time coming.... but I can see the light at the end of the tunnel.

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very nice. The extra wood on the console is going to look sharp when you rig it out.

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Thanks Bake - I wanted to do something a bit different - I hope it works out.

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Scott,

Beautiful work. Looking through your project album inspires me as I work through refinishing the teak on my boat (which is child's play comparatively).

Any chance we will you see you and the Outrage this summer at the NY Rendezvous?

Dan

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There is a chance - first the boat has to be done - which should be close - As long as she is powered I would be ok - The other issue is the date - its smack dab in the middle of graduation season. im hoping there is no date conflict.

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Scott,Your 19 Outrage is going to be drop dead gorgeous! Loved what you did to the console.

Richard

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Thanks Richard.... I am really looking forward to splashing her this year... been a long time comin.

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Got to love those louvered doors Scott.
Looking much better.

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Well boys - she saw the light of day for the first time in a year..... She did not see daylight all of 2009..... What a glorious day it was.... Check out my project page for updated photos... She is coming home next week - Then its time to install the new fuel system, all new wiring, new rubrail, and mounting the Suzuki.
here is a teaser..

[img]http://www.whalercentral.com/images/photoalbum_3/useralbum_29/outrage0001_2.jpg[/img]

[img]http://www.whalercentral.com/images/photoalbum_3/useralbum_29/outrage0001_6.jpg[/img]

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WOW!!! I am so envious of your progress. I need to get off my butt and finish mine. Looks great Scott!

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Scott,those doors looks GREAT! would you kindly recommend me the fella that made them?

Thanks,
Richard

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I think you need to open a new business Scott. You seem to have a knack for this stuff. Whaler restoration could be in your future, awesome job Scott.

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Thanks Guys. The doors were made by Classic Restoration.

http://www.vintagewatercraft.com/craft.com/

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Been making some progress - Motor is mounted, fuel tank and floor installed, gauges, controls and steering are mounted on console. Should have console mounted this week. Getting closer every day. Check out the project album for a few updates.

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Added a few more pictures today - be sure to check out the picture of the hydraulic steering issues.

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Looks fantastic Scott! What are your impressions of how the non-skid came out compared to how it looks from the factory?

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Thanks Dave, My initial impression was dissapointment - as I really wanted it to be factory. Now I am used to it and dont even look twice at it. For whatever thats worth.

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Scott - Baystar hydraulic does not work well with jackplates. You are going to have to use a Side Mount hydraulic cylinder.

Boston Whaler furnished side mount cylinders with all of the Whaler Drive boats for the same reason - front clearance when tilted.

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Scott - DO NOT get the side mount unit. I have more friends who trip or kick those getting out of the boat than you can imagine. Here is the issue with having the center mount cylinder on a jackplate. When the plate is full down and the motor is tilted full up the grease zerks will hit the transom and can break off. Solution - don't do that! I have had the center cylinder on my bob's plate for years with no problems. You can also mount your motor a few holes high and it helps with this as well. I would check the width of the cylinder against the recessed transom on the 19 before I bought it to make sure it fits inside the opening. Shouldn't be an issue but best to measure twice cut once right.

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Thanks guys - at this point I have invested a ton in this boat and the thought of changing the steering or jackplate would drive me nuts. My plan for now is just to raise the jackplate before tilting the motor. I worry there will be a day I forget to do that but we shall see.

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Getting closer every day. Heading off to electrical guy for new wiring. Here is how she sits as of right now... Click on the pic for a better view.

[img]http://www.whalercentral.com/images/photoalbum_3/useralbum_29/whalercentral052610.jpg[/img]

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Looking good buddy.

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Getting closer every day - A few updates to the project album.

[img]http://www.whalercentral.com/images/photoalbum_3/useralbum_29/tothis0001.jpg[/img]

[img]http://www.whalercentral.com/images/photoalbum_3/useralbum_29/bowlight0001.jpg[/img]

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Whaler Purists avert your eyes....or dont click this link.

Here is a vidoe of my new power extending and retracting anchor light.

http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v47...010070.mp4

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Very cool Scott. I would have it broken with in the second outing myself. None the less nice touch.

Have you tried it in the dark yet? How much light does it cast on the helm and fore deck?

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I have not tried it yet - I will turn the lights out in the shop tomorrow and see what it does - I was a bit worried about that too. I wanted to mount it in the rear of the boat - just didnt have the clearance needed to do it.

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I turned it on in the dark garage - I did not notice any glare at the helm area sitting or standing. I guess the true test will be when its in the water at night. I was pleasantly surprised at the results of my indoor test.

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There is something to be said about the look of a brand new refitted nineteen.
The gel looks prime
Even though I did opted for black,the red rub rail is very distinctive and a reflection of the style of the time.
The telescopic white beacon is a very nice touch.
I may have located it to the Starboard stern gunwale.

Good work Scott.

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Thanks Serge, The stern gunwale is where I wanted it. The unit under the dash (the part you cant see) is too long to fit there. We needed the height of the console to make it work.

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Hi Scott, New guy here with a burning question. Gorgeous work and fantastic post on your resto.

Could be a pretty dumb question but hope to get some knowledge by asking it.

Twin 75 HP motors, WHY? Am I wrong to assume that just a single 150 HP would be lighter, more economical on fuel and push the boat just as well? From my point of view, and I don't think it is right, but the only real advantage I see to twin motors is if one fails.

They do look pretty sharp but I am thinking of all the duplicate stuff that goes with having two and it sure seems like an expensive alternative to a newbe. I suppose you could spin around in circles real well but what other advantages are there by having a twin set up?

Thanks for a good lesson.

Gary

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Well I re-powered with a single. Just today I had motor trouble while traveling down the Hudson river. If I had twins I could have easily motored back on one. Thankfully I was able to limp back at idle to safety on what i had - but with ferrys and tour boats all over it would have been nice to have the power. So I guess it really comes down to security. I thought new 4 stroke power would give me that security - of course a hole in the oil filter will change all that.

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The last thing anyone wants or needs is engine troubles.

Bummer.... And that fairly new Suzuki...

A hole in the oil filter?
How did that happen?

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Well the oil was changed for its 10 hour service just before I bought it - It looks like the mechanic somehow got the metal bent on the lip of the filter where you put the wrench. It wasnt leaking for the first 3 hours I ran it. I can only assume the heat of the long run caused a crack to open up where the filter had been damaged. It could have been much worse. At one point were were pretty far from the ramp. We made it back on our own power (very slowly) and got an escort from a 22 Outrage Cuddy owned by Dan (themclos).Thanks Dan! Did have a few other boats escort us part of the way.

I will be posting pics on Monday when I get back. My camera battery died and I don't have the charger at our shore home.

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I have updated my project album with first splash pics. Still missing the windshield and few odds and ends. Will continue to post update pictures as things move forward.

[img]http://www.whalercentral.com/images/photoalbum_3/useralbum_29/firstsplash0001.jpg[/img]

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Very Nice, looks "Fantastic" ! The light is cool ! Nobody else has "THAT" !

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Thanks Matt!