Whaler Central - Boston Whaler Boat Information and Photos

Posted by sraab928 on 02/13/08 - 4:33 PM

Well I decided to give the 13 a face lift for the upcoming season. I am going to pull all the wood and refinish. I will replaced in a year or two with a custom design but for now I will just make it look as good as possible. While the wood is out I will flip the hull, strip the bottom and bring all the fiberglass back to close to original as possible in and out. Who knows maybe even throw a small 4 stroke on there to boot. Hint hint.

Check out the photos of my restoration in the Project Gallery section:
sraab928 13' Project

So far I have only run into one snag. The steering wheel nut is big time frozen. I'm going to take the assembly into my shop tomorrow and see what we can do... but salvage doesn't look so good. The threads are nonexistent.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v472/sraab928/1985%20Boston%20Whaler%2013/S6001122.jpg

Here is the before on the interior.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v472/sraab928/1985%20Boston%20Whaler%2013/S6001119.jpg

Here is where I am now.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v472/sraab928/1985%20Boston%20Whaler%2013/S6001124.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v472/sraab928/1985%20Boston%20Whaler%2013/S6001125.jpg

Can you say cupped?
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v472/sraab928/1985%20Boston%20Whaler%2013/S6001126.jpg

Edited by Joe Kriz on 05/05/09 - 1:20 PM

Posted by sraab928 on 02/13/08 - 5:14 PM

I am planning on reusing all the wood - I will try your flipping idea. I just need to get a season or two out of it. I don't have the time to do what I want right now plus I have a little more planning to do. I'm hoping the wood holds up to the refinishing. I have some cracks that worry me in the console wood.

Posted by sraab928 on 02/14/08 - 4:42 PM

Ok - got the nut off the steering wheel - that was a project. I think the shaft is shot - I will try to rethread it but I'm not overly optimistic.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v472/sraab928/1985%20Boston%20Whaler%2013/S6001129.jpg

Edited by Joe Kriz on 05/05/09 - 1:21 PM

Posted by sraab928 on 02/14/08 - 4:44 PM

Here are some cracks in the white of the rubrail - Does anyone have suggestions on this? do you have to replace the whole thing?

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v472/sraab928/1985%20Boston%20Whaler%2013/S6001133.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v472/sraab928/1985%20Boston%20Whaler%2013/S6001130.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v472/sraab928/1985%20Boston%20Whaler%2013/S6001131.jpg

Edited by Joe Kriz on 05/05/09 - 1:21 PM

Posted by kamie on 02/14/08 - 5:11 PM

#10

The black part (the rubrail) slides into the white part (receiver track). The track is either riveted to the hull or put on with SS screws. I prefer the screws but you can use rivets. To replace, you need to pull the old one off and fill the holes left in the hull. You can fill with Marine Tex, it will be hidden or even 5200 Then on a warm day, take the rub rail and track outside and let it warm up in the sun. Start at the stern and screw or rivet the new track on. Once on, you slide the rubrail in place. You can download instructions for the 15/17 foot, the 13 is basically the same idea. A warm day helps a lot to get things to bend well. Also having an extra pair of hands helps, especially if your trying to drill, hold, rivet ....you get the picture.

Posted by MW on 02/15/08 - 2:49 AM

#15

TRICK: Stretch and pull the rub rail slightly by hand when putting it in the track (that's why you want a warm day), it fit's in the channel easier, and when it contracts back up it fits snug in the rub rail channel and won't come out, I tapped my whole rub rail in with a block of wood and a rubber mallet for an hour or so, it was short by 6-8" when I got back around to the transom, I pulled it to stretch it in, and the whole rub rail fell out of the entire track on the whole boat, I was a tad upset, I then realized that they stretch it to put it on the boat, it went back on in 10 minutes with some stretching, I walked away (Job Finished) wondering if I'm a really smart guy, or really dumb. An extra pair of hands as stated above really helps a lot. I would also just replace the steering box helm, and put on a new wheel and cable, these model's (13' and 15') are so low to the water that the steering parts take a lot of back splash and spray over the bow, at least on mine it does, "steering" is something you don't want to be wrestling with out on the water, make it work perfect, also with these models I grease the tilt tube, and pivot shaft on the motor like once a week if it sit's in salt water, otherwise salt gets in the grease making engine turning difficult by drying it out, repairs can be expensive for this (been there), marine grease is cheap, so is a grease gun, you can NEVER over grease. Replacing the steering cable is normal maint. for me every few seasons.

mw

Edited by MW on 02/15/08 - 3:14 AM

Posted by sraab928 on 02/15/08 - 3:10 AM

#16

Thanks for all the tips guys. I guess I will move forward with my existing projects and hold off on the rubrail until the weather improves. I am working in a heated garage (best investment I have ever made!) but will probably need the sun to get that part of the project done.

Posted by sraab928 on 02/15/08 - 3:29 AM

#18

Yeah we custom built this house in 2006 - The garage design is a bit unique. 2 car entry from the driveway and a one car entry from the side with a bump out for work benches. It ends up making a a really nice size 3 car garage because you can get some longer stuff in there. Anyway when we were getting ready to do the concrete pour I decided to put in radiant hot water in floor heating. My wife thought I was crazy. Its was a great decision. I can lay on that floor on the coldest days and it feels great. I keep the thermo set around 60 which is a great temp to work in.

If you look close you can see the third garage door on the left side of this pic. Its the only one I could find that gives you an idea of what I am talking about. We put everything we had in this house and totally love it... except for the taxes... :o

[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v472/sraab928/1985%20Boston%20Whaler%2013/IMG_0487.jpg[/IMG]

Posted by Yiddil on 02/15/08 - 10:49 AM

#19

I replaced my rub rail from the original 1964 one to a white on white one I got from Sue....I still have the original if someone wants it....The new one came out fantastic....and is much better suited when you need a rub rail the newer ones are more heavy duty...see my page for pics....

Doing the actual work was not easy or hard, just different because of the difficulty in bending the tracks while attachiong with ribots....and yes clamps are the only way to go if your doing it by your self...

by the time your done your hands will hurt but it will be a site for sore hands:))

PS working on a whaler is never a bad day, just a labor of love....if you need more help back channel me S...

My Best, Henry

Posted by Binkie on 02/16/08 - 5:06 AM

#21

When I installed my rubrail last June in Fl. it was over 90 degrees in my garage, and Immersed the coil of rubrail in a 5 gallon bucket of really hot water to soften it up a bit. It works easier that way, and you can get it to straighten out. Any way you cut it its not a fun job, especially if you do it single handed, like I did. BTW I used the supplied rivets, as once they are in they won`t back out.

rich

Posted by Yiddil on 02/16/08 - 10:50 PM

#24

sraab928...I just purchased a second steering guts thingie...you know, shaft, abrrel etc...there out there(I wanted a spare) The Cygnet hasside rails since last summer, not sure which one you looked at(Pic) Going to Pull my "Kainer" wheel one day and repaint her, who knows maybe a trip to the chrome people as well for the cap center, but she looks okay so far. I liked the white on white rub rail better than the balck and white..its your flavor though...I did mine single handed but Marlin came over and helped start it with me:) He had the spare rib gun:) Then I went and got oen myself:) But when I was finished, my hands hurt for weeks:) but did she look nice;0:D

Posted by sraab928 on 02/27/08 - 3:31 AM

#26

How come I knew someone was going to say once you think you've sanded enough... sand some more... lol :o:D

I was amazed at the difference in look and feel when you get all the dust out of the wood. I tried blowing off with compressed air and it really didn't even put a dent in the actual dust in the wood. A tack cloth made a large difference.

I will sand some more today - and hopefully I will be getting closer to done.

Whats the final grit sandpaper I should sand with?

Posted by drandlett on 02/27/08 - 7:43 AM

#27

Scott,

I am doing the samething you are right now, no fun. But the wood really does look good. I guess I have some of the same questions, but maybe you can share some of your experience.

I used a gel stripper to get most of the old varnish off, then followed with 60grit then 180. Just happened to be the only paper I had on hand. I too am wondering at what point do I call it good!?!?! Guess it does not matter as I can't begin apply finish until the temps climb a bit.

What process have you taken (grit etc)?

Good luck and thanks,

Dana

Posted by sraab928 on 02/27/08 - 7:50 AM

#28

Well I did a couple of pieces with stipper first and found it easier to just sand without using it. For some reason the stripper seems seep into the wood a bit which in turn gums up my sanding pads.

I started using my random orbit sander... 80 grit.... then 150 grit.... Then I switched to hand sanding with 200 grit.... and that is where I am at. It feels nice and smooth to me but I am by no means a wood expert. I work with metal all day not wood so this is a departure for me.

Posted by drandlett on 02/27/08 - 8:15 AM

#29

Thanks. Eeems we have taken about the same route.... I am no wood worker either.

I think I'll try a final sand using a 200 or so like you and see what results. Although I cant apply finish I am ready to start filling predrilling holes and being done with the sanding.

The good thing is I work in the marine field and winters tend to have slow spells. Where I can steel away to the shop during the day and get some done. In fact I guess I am off to get some more done.

Thanks for the help.

Posted by fish on 02/27/08 - 10:26 AM

#31

220 is a good final sand grit, 400 is better. when I was younger I used to work at a marina for a guy that refinished boats. Most of what I did was sand and everything was by hand. Using an orbital took a lot of good wood too, so we had to do it the hard way. Also for what ever it is worth, you should try to only sand with the grain. Last thing i remember, when he was getting ready to begin varnishing, he would wipe the wood with denatured alch. I think he said it would remove any left over moisture that would tend to show up darker in the grain.

I am no expert and just did the grunt work, but I thought I would pass along the litle bit I remember.

Posted by sraab928 on 02/27/08 - 10:32 AM

#33

MW - Thanks - now we share the pain! :D

Fish - Thanks for the tips... I agree I probably took some good wood with the sander but I probably saved countless hours too... I will go back with 400 just to be safe. When I was hand sanding I was going with the grain for sure. I also read the denatured alcohol tip somewhere else so there must be somethin to it!

Jeff - Thanks for the offer... Maybe between the two of us we can get these boats ready for the water in time for that NY trip they are talking about.

Posted by whaler nut on 02/27/08 - 6:29 PM

#34

RE; your rub rail install i did one on my 15' whaler any my friend who is a fiberglass repair guy came over to show me how its done, I am glad he did, I basicly helped and followed his orders but the experiance was well worth it. Any way when putting in the insert my friend took the box the rail came in and cut a hole on small side, shook the rub rail down put the tip of a heat gun in and taped it in to place and let it run for about 20 min. get a pair of gloves and a rubber mallet. The insert came out like a wet noodle and went in with ease, needed a couple of taps here and there with the mallet but he made the install look so easy.:p
Note: Dont forget to run your bow light wire while your there.:D

Posted by Grady95 on 02/28/08 - 3:58 AM

#36

whaler nut wrote:
RE; your rub rail install i did one on my 15' whaler any my friend who is a fiberglass repair guy came over to show me how its done, I am glad he did, I basicly helped and followed his orders but the experiance was well worth it. Any way when putting in the insert my friend took the box the rail came in and cut a hole on small side, shook the rub rail down put the tip of a heat gun in and taped it in to place and let it run for about 20 min. get a pair of gloves and a rubber mallet. The insert came out like a wet noodle and went in with ease, needed a couple of taps here and there with the mallet but he made the install look so easy.:p
Note: Dont forget to run your bow light wire while your there.:D

Interesting. My rubrail needs to be installed. It is 4 degrees this morning in Rochester! There is going to have to be some way of getting this thing warmed up in the next few days and this sounds as good as any method. I'm sure my wife would prefer I do this rather than tumbling the rail around in her clothes dryer!
Thanks for the tip and welcome to the forum.
Grady

Posted by sraab928 on 03/01/08 - 8:43 AM

#41

Ok - another question. The wires from the original lights (boat didnt have any when I got it) were siliconed in there respective holes. It got them out today - There is a doble wire - gray and black - Appears that one end comes out the bow hole where the light should be and one end comes out a hole near the transom. Any easy test to tell if the wire is ok? I currently do not have a light for the boat otherwise I would just hook that up. I was thinking I could twist the ends of the wire together on one end and test continuity on the other. Seems logical to me. Also what wires would run to a stern light or are they just run external?

Posted by Derwd24 on 03/01/08 - 9:29 AM

#42

You could twist the ends together and check for continuity, but you'd also have to untwist and do the same test making sure there's no continuity as they could be crunched somewhere along the line and shorted as a result of damage.

Not sure about the second half of your question, do you not have wires to the stern light now?

Posted by sraab928 on 03/01/08 - 9:50 AM

#43

There is no stern light - When I got the boat it was all manual - no battery at all -

Here is a pic of the hole in the rear where the wires come out...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v472/sraab928/1985%20Boston%20Whaler%2013/85Whaler13005.jpg

It is basically on the opposite side (inside of boat) of the red Boston Whaler decal on the hull

Edited by Joe Kriz on 05/05/09 - 1:22 PM

Posted by sraab928 on 03/02/08 - 5:12 AM

#45

Thanks for the link.... that answered quite a few questions.

To be honest hadn't really thought about which lights I was going to use yet. I don't see any signs of mounts for a previous terminal block but the need for one makes sense. I will test the wires and see where I am at today.

Thanks for the help!

Posted by MW on 03/06/08 - 6:56 PM

#47

You can just ground the stern light to the "Neg" battery terminal with a wire "Ring terminal", then run the "pos" from the anchor light wire to a two position pull switch on the console that has "pos" power going to it, position 1 is just the Anchor light on, position 2 on the pull switch is both anchor and running lights "on". The Bow light can be just grounded by a ring terminal to the neg battery post in the aft section where the wires come out, then run the "pos" wire to the "pos" two position pull switch on the console, both circuits can be protected by a simple water proof "in line" fuse on the power lead (pos. wire) of each light. Running external wires through a 3/8" poly hose (or pieces of hose) makes them easy to attach with plastic clips, or cable ties to any fixed point, or you can attach it along the steering cable up to the console (Cable ties require no drilling, and are easily and cheaply replaced), if a long run of wire through the hose is needed, get the hose as warm (leave it in the sun) and straight as possible, a shot of WD-40 in the hose helps too when fishing the wire through (ya gotta push the wire through, so an extra pair of hands helps a lot to hold the hose striaght while you push the wire through), the shorter the run, the easier it is to get the wire through the hose. You can also split the hose length wise and slide the wires in that way if the run is too long to fish them through. Hope this helps !
mw

Posted by danedg on 03/06/08 - 6:57 PM

#48

Sraab,
You should run new wires for the bow light through the new rub rail...while you have the chance....whether you need them or not!!! Because you will!!!B)
....believe it it or not..them old wires still work...believe it or not...they will just disintegrate...soon...:(
I now have to pull the (replacement) 2 piece rubrail off...to replace them very wires...properly....
The old ones were molded into the hull....:@
..another indication the BW never expected us to be mesing around with these old bathtubs this long.....;)
The best way is to run a 4pair on 16ga. wire. up underneath to the bowlight area while you're messing with the new rubrail...the first time....
Why a 4pair?
It'll give you a set of spares 20 years down the road.....B)

Posted by fabricator on 03/07/08 - 8:28 AM

#51

MW wrote:
..... Running external wires through a 3/8" poly hose (or pieces of hose) makes them easy to attach with plastic clips, or cable ties to any fixed point, or you can attach it along the steering cable up to the console (Cable ties require no drilling, and are easily and cheaply replaced), if a long run of wire through the hose is needed, get the hose as warm (leave it in the sun) and straight as possible, a shot of WD-40 in the hose helps too when fishing the wire through (ya gotta push the wire through, so an extra pair of hands helps a lot to hold the hose striaght while you push the wire through), the shorter the run, the easier it is to get the wire through the hose. You can also split the hose length wise and slide the wires in that way if the run is too long to fish them through. Hope this helps !
mw

You could also use an electrician's fish tape. I'd recommend using a lubricant made for wires, not WD-40, so you don't have issues with the petroleum in it degrading the insulation or hose.

Posted by sraab928 on 06/02/08 - 5:01 PM

#52

Here is a quick update - Wood is just about varnished... man thats lots of work. Dont know why some pieces are different colors but oh well... is what it is... Pic attached - cell phone variety - sorry for that...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v472/sraab928/1985%20Boston%20Whaler%2013/0602081902.jpg

Edited by Joe Kriz on 05/05/09 - 1:22 PM

Posted by sraab928 on 06/03/08 - 11:34 AM

#54

Thanks for flipping the pic Rob... I was kinda tired when I posted it. Im so tired of sanding and varnish you have no idea. In between coats I have been compounding and buffing the hull inside and out. I keep saying why am I doing this... just to throw crab traps, minnow traps and fish guts all over it.... I guess its just a labor of love.

Posted by Blue_Northern on 06/03/08 - 2:44 PM

#55

Scott - Always glad to help. You know we all tend to do things like that. I found myself doing drywall in a friends new house today wearing one of my nice black polo shirts. Needless to say It will need a good soaking -- When I was a kid and played baseball I always wore a nice clean uniform. I sucked (not really) but always said it was not how you played but how you looked while playing the game. B)

Posted by sraab928 on 06/11/08 - 4:15 PM

#56

Ok finished waxing the insides - starting to layout the woodwork... Its hard working on 2 project boats at once....
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v472/sraab928/1985%20Boston%20Whaler%2013/0611081849.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v472/sraab928/1985%20Boston%20Whaler%2013/0611081850.jpg

Edited by Joe Kriz on 05/05/09 - 1:23 PM

Posted by sraab928 on 06/16/08 - 4:49 PM

#59

Ok interior is installed... Not bad for my first interior woodwork redo. I learned alot in the process.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v472/sraab928/1985%20Boston%20Whaler%2013/0616081915.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v472/sraab928/1985%20Boston%20Whaler%2013/0616081916.jpg

I set the motor on to see how things are going to fit - it appears that the Honda might have different mounting pattern than the Evinrude - it looks like the mounting holes are about a half a hole off - I am tired right now and the motor was a handful by myself so it could be fine - I had to walk away and relax.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v472/sraab928/1985%20Boston%20Whaler%2013/0616081916a.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v472/sraab928/1985%20Boston%20Whaler%2013/0616081917.jpg

Edited by Joe Kriz on 05/05/09 - 1:23 PM

Posted by sraab928 on 06/17/08 - 1:06 PM

#61

Thanks! The engine is a 2004 - Has 30 hours on it - Got it from a guy who had it on a Carolina Skiff - he decided he wanted a bigger motor - I got a sweet deal on it so I figured why not. The prop isn't even missing a chip of paint. You cannot tell this motor is not new - He gave me the tach with hour display and gave me a factory service manual to boot.

Posted by sraab928 on 06/17/08 - 5:28 PM

#63

Well the motor is now mounted properly -
[img]http://www.whalercentral.com/images/photoalbum_3/useralbum_14/hondapower_t1.jpg[/img]

Got the controls mounted up - the cables are a bit long - I will make do for a bit until Im sure I am happy with this power combination. Dont want to throw more money at it until Im sure it will make me happy.
[img]http://www.whalercentral.com/images/photoalbum_3/useralbum_14/hondacontrols_t1.jpg[/img]

So whats left to do.... Mount the tach on the console - Debating that one - I really dont think I want to mount it next to the steering wheel - it will become a water dish - If I mount on the part by my knees it will be hard to see.... Not sure - suggestions are welcome. - I also have to mount the battery and battery box. Thinking port rear - Help offset some of my weight - Nowhere near enough but its a start..lol Then I have to get her ready for a test run.

Edited by Joe Kriz on 05/05/09 - 1:25 PM

Posted by sraab928 on 06/18/08 - 3:12 AM

#65

Not sure on fuel tank yet - for now it will be a 6 gallon portable - With that motor it should run all day on one tank...lol

In the future I was thinking about an alum tank that mounted under the front bench seat.

Thanks for the compliments. It really has been hard working two projects at once.

Posted by whaler nut on 10/25/08 - 7:00 PM

#66

Don't know if you mounted your guages yet, I was thinking the same thing re: water sitting in them when mounted flat. I mounted a factory honda tach and trim guage and I used angled bezels to angle them a little better in my view as well as to help shed water.
NOTE: If you are using a factory honda tach check the diameter its 3-1/8" a little smaller then the norm, the only one I found that made a bezel that size was lavorsi marine used one on the tach and trim guage came out great. No water puddling either