Whaler Central - Boston Whaler Boat Information and Photos

Posted by gilreath on 01/08/08 - 1:18 PM

I stopped in at my local hardwoods store today to check pricing for new wood for my 13' project. I was wondering if anyone could shed some light on what type of mahogany to use. They had 3 different types, with three different price ranges varying dramatically. The three different types were Philippine, African and Honduras. The Philippine was S4S and was already cut to an actual 3/4". I know that the seats and other wood call for 1" thick, but maybe the 3/4" would work?? The African was approximately $8 a BF, the Honduras was $14 and the Philippine was about $6. I don't want to buy wood that I will have to replace again, but I would rather spend the extra money on mounting the motor and finishes.
Can anyone shed some light on the different types?

Thanks
Shawn

Posted by Tom W Clark on 01/08/08 - 1:48 PM

Shawn,

Honduras mahogany is a true mahogany, African is Sapele or Khaya and Philippine is a trade name applied to any of a number of tropical and subtropical hardwoods that look like mahogany.

My advice is for you use whatever wood looks the best to you. No two boards are the same so the endless debate about which type is "best" is largely unimportant. Whaler used a variety of woods over the years so do not look too closely there for guidance.

I will however, tell you it is important to use the thicker 1" lumber for thwarts seat especially. 3/4" will not be strong enough.

Posted by MW on 01/09/08 - 1:41 AM

I used "African Mahogony", it was already on the boat, readily available at the lumber yard, price was good (although price is not usually a consideration, we all bought "Whaler's" didn't we) the only problem I had was on one seat, where they ran it through the "Plainer", a bit "Rough" and it was some work to sand it down on one board (I thought he ran it through the plainer a tad too fast). I actually picked the rear bench seat to be 3/4" full stock on my sport 15'. The reason for this was to give some "FLEX" to it when grabbing some air, and landing hard, it lasted about 17 years, so I can't complain, It actually broke with two people on it, my passenger was screaming "Dude can we slow down", as it cracked from HIM landing on it hard (air-born). I replaced with 3/4" stock but, put a reinforcement piece of wood under the rear bench seat in the middle (you can see it on the last pic on my P.P), landings are a bit harder but, it won't break. I'm sure what ever you choose will look good ! odd's are at some point you will have to replace some wood on the boat due to maint., that was part of "Whaler's" design, to make it "Easily replaced", so you can get back to having "FUN" !
mw

Edited by MW on 01/09/08 - 1:50 AM

Posted by Binkie on 01/09/08 - 3:48 AM

I agree with the above two threads. The best looking mahogany is the African or sapele.

[url] http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c191/floridaboy2053/0465372-R1-026-11A.jpg[/url]

Whaler used Philippine. The reason the seats were 5/4" was for strength. I would be afraid to use Philippine if I had to go with 3/4" seats. I have seen broken and split seats even at 5/4" thick.
I have been using African(Sapele) in the interiors that I have built. It is a lot stronger and 3/4" thick seats can be used without worry. The wood I buy is unplaned and measures a little over 1 1/8" thick. I can plane it to a little over one inch. The additional cost in the wood is small, when you consider the total cost, and labor.

Rich

Posted by makanihula on 01/09/08 - 6:40 AM

I second everything in this thread, especially the beauty of African. Rich, your picture is a work of art. The hatch cover looks exactly the same as the one I'm working on (4th coat of Sikkens tonight). Made me so excited I'm going to skip work today and build something. Note to Shawn, the wood in Rich's picture will get darker over time, and more orange-red, whereas honduran will be more brown-red. 3/4 will work for a seat but only with a support in the center. 3/4 for the console should be fine. I use 4/4 unplaned and I get rid of the fuzz with a Makita 21" belt sander, 50 grit (reasons being I don't lose much wood and I don't own a planer). Mahogany sands so easily it took me <10 minutes to finish both sides of a 64" x 10" rough-sawn board. My opinion is to buy cheaper rough sawn African 4/4 and belt-sand it.

Posted by gilreath on 01/09/08 - 10:14 AM

Thanks to all who responded!! You have all given me very helpful information. I think that I will use the cheap philippine (cheaper) for the project, but will make sure to get the seats in a 5/4 so I don't have to think about them again.
I spent 3 hours again sanding the interior of this boat last night geting ready to fill around 200 holes put in her by redneck bass fishermen for various fishing platforms made of 2X4's and green carpet. I'd say she has had at least 3 devevastating remodels in her 40 year history. I kept saying to myself, "Forgive them, for they know not what they have done." Anyway, the further I get with the sanding, the more momentum I acquire because you can start to see her potential.
I will just have to be careful not to get my wife mad by spending too much time on the whaler and not enough time on the bathroom remodel!

Thanks again to all,
Cheers!
Shawn

Edited by gilreath on 01/09/08 - 4:16 PM

Posted by MW on 01/10/08 - 12:29 AM

I think that's the "FUN" part, when all of your hard work starts to show, You're right, it does give momentum to the project. You'll be out there in the garage like the rest of us at 5am doing that 1 last thing before work starts, I think it's worth it for all the "ooo's" and "Ahhh's" you get at the dock when the wood is finished, it REALLY set's these boat's apart from ANYTHING else on the water, "Cool Factor" is MAX. !
mw

Posted by danedg on 01/14/08 - 6:04 PM

Well...
The originals seem to be made of Honduran mahogany...no longer politically correct or "green" , as you are contributing to the destruction of the Amazonian rain forest by purchasing it...which is why the Honduran is so gosh darn expensive...but it's beautiful stuff...deeper...better grain...fantastic finish.
After WW2...the mahogany forests of the Phillipines were raped as well...still are...
Nice product...a little less "showy' than the Honduran....
The sapele has a great "figure"....same species...but I wonder about it's moisture repellancy...
The Honduran should last forever...with enough coats of varnish...
The plywood used was classified as"Ribbon Stripe"....not to be confused with "rotary cut"...see: double the price.....
But...it's worth it....

Posted by kitty on 01/15/08 - 8:11 AM

#10

i just got the kit from speciality marine . all the mahogany looks nice. well worth the money. it would take a long time to make all that for what it costs. i will say though i cant wait to sand it down and re-varnish as the finish is a little rough. no way its 8 coats. and there are enough finger prints in it to solve a crime. i'm not even looking at all the runs. but thats ok, i would rather fix that than actually make it from stock. the seats are a full inch also. good luck if you do it but the super sport interior from them is worth the money!

Posted by danedg on 01/16/08 - 3:01 PM

#11

Sorry to hear that the stuff you just paid good money for, has to be refinished right out of the box...
I'm well aware the the varnishing process is as involved as the carpentry...more so....quality control seems to be on vacation...
Are we in contact with Specialty for some explanation?
My stuff ain't leavin' the shop, unless I'd be willing to put it in MY boat...

Posted by kitty on 01/16/08 - 3:40 PM

#12

actually im alright with it. i look forward to varnishing the mahogany. i know , i should complain but i still feel its a good deal. i bought the seat cushions "BEAUTIFULLY DONE" new wrap around rail, "LOOKS GOOD" and the super sport interior mahogany. they gave me a 15 percent discount for everything. i dont want to bash them.......it is still a great deal. the storage box, i dont know where i would ever get that. im going to learn to post pictures, and show you before and after photos. im not the best with computers. i type with two fingers..........doesnt everyone? any way i wonder about all the finger prints in the varnish. reminds me of being little and finding fossils!

Posted by MW on 01/17/08 - 1:02 AM

#13

Finger prints in varnish on a whaler IS a crime, when I'm finishing the wood on MY boat, I make it clear to all, to stay away from my work in the garage "USE OF DEADLY FORCE IS AUTHORIZED" ! strip down the wood and re-finish, half the work is already done, should be a fast install, good luck. HINT: When drying the Varnish/Poly on the wood, I put it in the bathroom overnight to dry, this room has the least amount of dust in it... Goes over real big with "Mrs mw", (about as well as the full sized pin ball machine in the living room).
mw

Edited by MW on 01/17/08 - 1:08 AM

Posted by danedg on 01/17/08 - 2:24 PM

#14

Kitty,
I'm basically a "hunt n' pecker" myself...I'm up to three fingers now...
should have taken that typing class back in high school...oh well....
I'm basically with MW on this one...receiving a finished product in that condition should be unacceptable...our boats are dinosaurs...doesn't mean we should have cave paintings on them....I'd bitch.....

Posted by kitty on 01/17/08 - 6:07 PM

#15

i got another idea, im gonna sand it down, varnish it about 6 coats..........and take all the credit! dont you worry lad, i have no intention of dissapointing anyone with this project. it will be perfect when im done. i have waited for this for 3 years at least. its hard to find a boat to do that doesnt cost what a new one will. as for the finger prints. we couldnt find a match. LOL!