Posted by Binkie on 01/06/08 - 2:56 PM
#1
I built this teak casting platform to fit the rear portion of my `61 13 ft. Whaler. It could be modified to fit many other Whalers, either as a forward or rear casting platform I used teak for this one, as the teak interior, seats and seat clamps were in the boat when I bought it, and were not going to be used during the modification, and restoration. Cypress would also be another good wood to use, and it is much more inexpensive than teak. Years ago, I built a 6`x2` dive platform for my 25 ` Bertram using cypress, and the same method, and it held up for many years, and weathered to look like teak. It may still be around.
Here is a pic of the finished casting platform. It is hinged in the center so it folds back on itself, and creates a large storage space underneath, something badly needed on the 13 footer. It is removed by just lifting out of the boat it is not fastened to anything.
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c19...titled.jpg
The wood was ripped into strips (3/4"x1 1/2") a couple of inches longer than needed
and the filler pieces between the main strips were cut to 6" long
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c19...gplat1.jpg
On a piece of plywood lay out the outline of the platform with a pencil, and make sure the corners are square.
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c19...tplat2.jpg
Lay out the loose pieces on the plywood, and make sure the six inch pieces are all in line with a framing square. Next draw a perpendicular pencil line (3) over the 6" sections.
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c19...tplat5.jpg
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c19...tplat3.jpg
Next mark the center of each piece, using a square and marking down from the center line. I used a 3/8" stainless threaded rod, (Home Depot) Drill holes in each piece of wood larger than the threaded rod, so the rod will slip easily through the wood.
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c19...tplat6.jpg
The threaded rods laid over the center lines and the holes are drilled
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c19...tplat4.jpg
The deck is separated where it will be hinged, the rods are cut about at least 3 inches longer than needed, and the rods are inserted in the holes.
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c19...tplat7.jpg
Glue, (I used Elmer's exterior glue, resinol glue can also be used. Don`t use expanding glue as it will expand before you get a chance to tighten the nuts on the rods.) each piece, and when everything is glued, tighten the nuts on the rods to squeeze the whole thing together, and let the glue set up. Of course you need to countersink the holes for the nuts.
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c19...tplat8.jpg
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c19...plat10.jpg
Next lay the sections of the deck on saw horses and sand flat with your belt sander start with 60 grit. Because you built the deck on a sheet of plywood, it is fairly flat to begin with. After it is smooth, measure the exact length, lay it out and cut it with your cutoff saw. Next use your router with a roundover bit, to dress all the edges.
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c19...tplat9.jpg
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c19...plat11.jpg
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c19...plat12.jpg
Lastly screw on the stainless piano hinge (Home Depot) You can apply teak oil if desired to both teak or cypress.
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c19...plat14.jpg
Rich
(Rich, you can edit any of your posts by clicking on the "Edit" button in the lower right of each post)
Edited by Joe Kriz on 01/21/12 - 10:23 AM
Posted by Yiddil on 01/06/08 - 8:34 PM
#4
Nice job Binkie, Looks great! Eventually I will pop one into the 64 13 I have. I have a casting deck in the Nantucket, but it came to me as a Lounge unit extention so i mostly relax on it...see my picks somewhere...but the 13 could always use so more wood...:) and you do it well:)