Whaler Central - Boston Whaler Boat Information and Photos

Posted by rbedini on 01/02/08 - 1:17 PM

I'm manufacturing a RPS for my Montauk (70's) starting from the scratch (see the work in progress in the attached picture), using the information collected in the Whaler Central website.

May someone advise me if it is necessary some glue in addition to the screws (and in this case what type of glue)?

If someone is interested I have the complete drawings completely dimensioned in metric measure units (mm and cm)

Edited by Tom W Clark on 01/03/08 - 2:47 PM

Posted by Joe Kriz on 01/02/08 - 11:49 PM

rbedini,

Good question.
I have not noticed any glue on my RPS but I have never had it apart either.

Anyone have any ideas?

Looks like you have done a real nice job.

Posted by Yiger on 01/03/08 - 2:15 PM

Nice job so far! I'd glue it- this shouldn't be something that needs to be disassembled very often (or ever really) so the extra strength can only help; if you ever needed to replace a slat you could still remove the glue without too much effort. Think how much stress normal chairs are constantly subject to in your house... This one for your boat will be subject to incredible amounts of vibrations and hard shocks from running through waves. Elmer's Wood Glue has always done a great job for me, plus it's cheap and easy to remove if repairs are ever needed. I don't love Gorilla Glue. It seems strong, but it's a little messy and a bit more of a pain in the neck to work with. Again, great job!

Posted by Tom W Clark on 01/03/08 - 2:51 PM

I can find no evidence that Whaler ever used glue to assemble the teak seat back for the classic RPS. However, if I were building one, I would glue it. It will be stronger but more to the point, the glued joints will exclude water and help preserve the integrity of the seat back.

For glue, do not white glue (Elmer's). You need to use a waterproof glue and while TiteBond II (waterproof yellow glue) *might* be OK, I would recommend using polyurethane glue (Gorilla Glue) because it works so well with teak and is one part and easy to use. Epoxy would work well too, but that gets even more complicated.

The one thing to watch out for with polyurethane glue is the mess and the "foam-out". Do not over apply. Be sure to pre-wet the surfaced to be joined with water and plan on sanding the joints after the glue has set.

Posted by CapnJs on 01/04/08 - 6:31 PM

I agree with Tom; I have used Gorilla Glue on teak with excellent results. I had great results gluing a couple of 3/4 inch pieces together to make an 1 1/2 inch square. After careful sanding it's almost impossible to find the seam.

But don't plan to get it easily apart and follow the instructions on the Gorilla glue website for gluing teak. I heard at least two wrong sets of instructions for using it on teak. The correct way is, as Tom indicates, to wet the pieces first.

If you haven't used if before I'd recommend trying Gorilla glue on some scrap pieces first. Keep in mind that it will be difficult to get at some of your joints to sand toward the end of the project.

Jack

Posted by Yiger on 01/05/08 - 7:00 AM

I have nothing against Gorilla glue, but just keep this in mind- if the original seats had NO glue, then any glue you apply now is really just extra strength. Gorilla glue is stronger than the older types, yes. However, if you were to break a slat in the seat back it would be a nightmare to remove that piece cleanly. Also, if the seat is going to be varnished, waterproofness is not really an issue. I will say that I have used Gorilla glue with success in the past, I just don't think it is the end-all solution for all situations.

Posted by rbedini on 01/05/08 - 7:12 AM

Thanks for all the suggentions I received by the many whaler friends!
At present I have all the necessary information to proceede to assemble my RPS.
A last question: what kind of varnish is usable?? How many coats??
I used Iroko wood (the "teak from Africa")

Posted by Tom W Clark on 01/05/08 - 8:10 AM

#10

Dan,

Elmer's Carpenter's glue is not waterproof. You need to use a waterproof glue for this project.

I recommend the polyurethane glue because of its ease of use; no mixing required. If the seat back is strong and well built, there is no need for it to ever come apart. If a slat were to break as in the scenario offered, the polyurethane glue would not make it difficult to remove and repair. One would simply chisel off the remaining broken bits.

When there is some foam-out with polyurethane glue at a joint, I use a sharp chisel to shave it off before sanding. In the case of the RPS, any glue showing at the joints inside the sat back are not visible when the seat back is complete and the rod holders are installed so it is a moot point; you need not even deal with it if you choose.

Edited by Tom W Clark on 01/05/08 - 8:11 AM

Posted by DaveS on 01/05/08 - 8:44 PM

#11

Tom,

Nice work...I ended up constucting my backrest for my 1989 Newport restoration from teak and epoxy...didn't suffer from any ill effects and seemed to hold up well...then I sold the boat! :) I've heard of the gorilla glue but have never used it...once my wife lets me set up my shop again, I'm going to have to try it...

Dave

Posted by fatcat99 on 04/10/13 - 1:58 PM

#12

Tom, I'd love to see your drawings for the seat back, I am thinking about building one out of starboard for my 1996 Montauk that came without one.

Thanks! Kevin

Edited by Joe Kriz on 04/10/13 - 2:10 PM

Posted by fatcat99 on 04/10/13 - 2:12 PM

#14

Found them in the downloads section! Thanks!

I just got my first Whaler and can't believe what an awesome support / reference community this is! Certainly additive to the legendary strong Whaler loyalty and part of what maintains the value in all of our boats!

Thanks again

Posted by WRufus on 04/29/13 - 6:14 PM

#15

X2 Re: Tom's reply about TiteBond II (waterproof). It was reccomended to me by a guy that went to a wooden boat building school. From my experience, It is really easy to work with and a good strong glue.
In fact, i have to replace the bottom piece of teak for the RPS seatback and I am going to glue and screw w/ titebond II. That brings up a question, any suggestions for drilling out the teak plugs to get at the heads of the screws? What size are the replacement teak plugs? I noticed teak plugs for sale at west marine.
Thnks
Ruf

Posted by jflots on 04/30/13 - 4:17 AM

#16

Run a wood screw into the bung (plug). The threads will break up the bung and pull out the pieces without damaging the scew head below it. Bungs are typically 3/8'

Posted by Weatherly on 04/30/13 - 5:35 AM

#17

Ruf: You can reuse the bungs if they are removed carefully with a small screw driver head. If you need new bungs, I have a bunch left over from my repair of several teak seatbacks in the last several months. I can have a handful dropped off at your residence, just like the bow hatch I sold you. Gratis.

Posted by Tom W Clark on 04/30/13 - 6:50 AM

#18

Don't even try saving the bungs. Just use a drywall screw to penetrate the bungs and when the tip bottoms out against the screw head, the bung will be lifted by the screw's threads.

A $5 hardware store plug cutter and a scrap of teak will produce all the bungs you need.