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My project list for the boat is pretty short this winter compared to last.
1. add hinges to the anchor locker cause it hurts when you drop it.
2. Finish the remaining teak pieces on the boat (dash panels & sump cover)
3. purchase and install the fly top / side curtains / windshield
4. install the sun top
5. chip away the wooden strakes attached to the hull bottom
6. remove some or all of the bottom paint <- depends on time and weather.

The big one will be to finally add the remaining canvas to Evenstar. The plan is to add both a fly top and the sun top. Not sure if I will be able to keep both installed at the same time but even switching between them will help to lengthen the boating season. The sun top will make lounging on the boat in August, much more comfortable.

Depending on the weather this winter, it would be nice to drop the boat in mid March and not have to pull her until late November.

So, What's your winter projects?

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MMM, lets see, I have a few of them.

1. Add an on board battery charger (completed already)

2. Replace the Perko battery switch with the BEP switch/VSR combination (I need to replace the circuit breaker at the starboard aft corner of the boat at the same time)

3. Install the Northstar fuel flow meter (need a new dash panel because I have to relocate the exisitng gauges to accomodate the new gauge)

4. Remove the aftermarket stern light, patch the hole, install a stern light on the t-top (I will probably use a stainless plate to patch the hole for now, but would like to attempt a patch of the non-skid some day)

5. Remove the aftermarket bow light (currently installed on the t-top), install aftermarket bow lights in their original locations

6. Replace the dome light above the console with a red/white combination dome light (located under the t-top mounted electronics box-the white light located there now blinds you at the wrong times)

7. Wax the boat inside and out (should be quick as the entire boat was wet sanded the winter before last)

8. Add two more keel rollers to the boat trailer (last two, really)

9. Install a frame mounted walking board to the boat trailer (my balance is not what it use to be, this is almost done)

10. Install the new to me teak console door (it is an OE door from a Super console , so I have to cut the opening in the console larger, also need the latch and lock, and need to fabricate the teak drip cap for the frame)

11. Add breakaway and hinge pins to the t-top so I can fold it over to make it faster and easier to get the boat into the warm shop (I usually store it in the carport- I can get the boat in the shop but that entails removing the antennas, and the wheels, then lowering the trailer axles onto dollies- not convenient or quick)

Whew, this may be a two winter project list. No, this is a two winter list.

Doug Vazquez

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Wow, that looks like my last years list.
How big is the console door from the super console? I have the regular console but the cutout is for the newer plexaglass doors which are larger than the original teak. I want to keep them teak but don't want to try to remake them, if I can avoid it. The super console door just might fit.

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Kamie,

The Super console door is 6" taller than the Standard console door. The door I am referring to is the port side console access door.

I remain on the lookout for a teak aft console access door.

Doug

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Looking for a new project boat. :o Got my eye on a 17 Montauk and if I get it I'll have plenty to do over the Winter months and then a 15 Sport for sale in the spring :)

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1. Install new engine gauges.... (already done)

2. Install new Windline telescoping 2 step swim ladder (already done)

3. Buy or make new under gunwale rod holders from mahogany plywood...

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Joe -

Now that is not fair! Posting 2 items you have already completed. Makes us all look like slackers. ;)

Contrary to all weather reports, I still plan to get out on the water. Not today but soon. Even with no courtesy floats and 40 degree temps. Maybe this is my subconscious preventing me from getting to my list. Then again it was 56 degrees at the end of December last year. My list includes:

Re-align rigging hose
Remount engine higher
New Fuel/water separator
Interior lighting
Deck removal/inspection and new hoses.

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My list does not include finding the perfect project 13. I have also left off some trailer changes I plan to make as they depend on taking the boat and trailer for a spin at 55mph. I moved the axles around late last summer so I hope I can now travel at highway speed without a wildly swaying boat. If I can, I plan to replace the last 18 inch roller with two 12 inch rollers, redo the rollers so I can raise the whole boat a bit higher over the frame and add guide bunks, similar to the ones Dave has on his trailer. I don't launch / retrieve very often but having bunks to keep the keel centered on the rollers would help a lot.

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Have complete canvas kit installed by Mills.
Raise console 4" and either cut holes for batteries to set on floor, or add support under console to support battery weight better.
Install hydraulic steering.
Sand and oil gunwhale teak.
Make some minor repairs to other teak.
Rearrange my guages so I can see them better.
That'll keep me busy for a while.

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well, since I just picked up my '89 Outrage 18 in September, I've been busy ever since. I resisted the temptation of even putting it in the water at the end of the season (to the disbelief of everyone I know) and immediately brought into my garage to start working on it as I knew that I had more work than the winter would provide for time. Here's my list:

-Remove all teak, sand, clean and oil. (almost completed)

-Patch up screw holes that weren't being used in stern area. I completed this by re-gelcoating the entire stern battery area.

-Fix spidercracks around bow rail. Used West Systems epoxy and re-gelcoated entire bow rail deck. (completed)

-Replace fuel line from tank to motor. (completed)

-Organize electrical wiring and add quick-disconnects in order to remove t-top easily. (completed)

-Rebuild and install stern bench seat. (completed)

-Fix unused holes in console with epoxy and gelcoat. (started)

-Fabricate new under gunwale rod holders out of mahogany plywood. (not started)

-Fabricate cooler cleats. (not started)

-Repaint console gauge steel plates. Haven't decided powdercoat or spray paint. (not started)

-Clean, wax entire boat. (not started)

I hack away at all of this an hour every evening and the very few hours that are available during the weekends.

Mike

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My winter projects on the 13 include;

Remove bottom paint.
Compound and wax hull.
Replace the Registration numbers and decals.
Redo or replace wood.

We wont even get into the projects line up for the other three boats... lets just say I will be busy and hope to get it all done.

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-new gel-coat, stem to stern-under gunnel lighting-re-chrome bow light and samson post-interface smartcraft fuel gauge to saddle tanks-strip and redo ceiling boards-add 4 inch hydraulic jackplate-hydraulic steering- will post new pictures come spring.

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Forgot to mention my other Ribbed Whaler will launch in the spring , period correct, with twin Homelite 55 hp 4 strokes.This boat also was found untouched as delivered from the factory .

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Scrimshaw,
Are you saying your 2nd ribbed Whaler is brand new? :o

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My winter / spring project..

After almost finding the right boat a couple times now, I would like to find the right boat and have it in my driveway.

Scrimshaw,
2 ribbed sided outrages? Lucky, lucky, lucky, guy. I would love to own just one. That is my all time favorite whaler.

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I can't even imagine the value of your boat.

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I have no idea of it"s value but here is what it sold for! http://s212.photobucket.com/albums/cc...nt=IMG.jpg

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Joe,

Can you post pics of the swim ladder? Thanks.

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PJ,

I have a teak swim platform that I just mounted the Windline telescoping 2 step ladder on top of.
Here are some photos of the swim platform in this post:
http://www.whalercentral.com/forum/vi...9&pid=8039

Take a look at JJS Personal Page. He put a Windline telescoping transom mount 2 step ladder on the back of his Outrage 18..
http://www.whalercentral.com/infusion...ser_id=233

I'll take a couple of photos of the ladder when I can.
I know I tried the 3 step version but it was too long when collapsed to fold down on the platform because it hit the ski/tow eye. That's why I used the step version.

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Pulled the boat out today, washed her down well, winterized the engine and tucked her away in the garage. :( Would have stayed in one more week but my year-old battery started going weak. Kinda odd, because the battery was fine last weekend now she's low and didn't charge well after starting with a booster box. I'll have to hook the battery up to the trickle charger and see what's up..

On the list for this winter:

Pull the steering wheel and bezel off and see what's up with the helm. The steering/helm set up developed a little free play late in the season and needs attention. Hopefully no big problem.

Next up is to make some measurements and cut some templates to send off to the brother in law in Florida. The plan is to face the top and face of the console using 1/2" black Star Board. When that gets done I'd like to replace the old wheel with a stainless destroyer wheel.

The paint on the engine shaft and transom mount needs some touch up, some bronze wool and Tempo Johnson White and clear coat will take care of that. I'll also pull the prop, clean it up and repaint that too. Maybe I'll finally get a stainless prop and keep the aluminum one for a spare... a water pump rebuild wouldn't be a bad idea either. I've never done one..anyone got any tips on that?

Oh yeah, replace the piece of junk Garmin mount for my hand held GPS with RAM Mount...

The trailer still needs some odds and ends and adjustments.

I was happy today looking at my bottom paint! :) This is the first season I have used ablative paint and it performed very very well. I spent a lot time last spring taking down the old paint and coated the entire bottom using a penetrating epoxy before applying the ablative. (it's a 37 year old hull and there was a ton of gel coat pitting and crazing down there) I'll need to paint again in the spring to cover the areas that really wore down but there will little if any, need to sand before doing so.

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I hope that's not how your insurance company calculates the value. :|

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Will be pulling the boat this weekend - sorry to see the season end....

Will be bringing my 1972 Sport into the beauty parlor for:

1. Remove bottom paint
2. Repair some stress cracks in the interior
3. Awlgrip inside and out
4. Replace all wood and helm
5. Rechrome helm bezel
6. Wire navigation lights
7. Install destroyer steering wheel
8. Install tach & depth guage

Should be a fun winter!!!

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Wow, sounds like alot of renovations going on this winter. I'll winterize the end of December.

I plan to redo my teak and really bring it back to its original finish. Tighten up lose screws, which I do periodically. Buff and polish hull and gunnels (inside). Remove the last bit of bottom paint on the whalerdrive. Repack all 4 wheel bearings.

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I had a busy day in and out of the shop today.

First thing to do was to get a batch of salmon smoked for the Thanksgiving snacks. Check! It turned out pretty tasty too, if I don't say so myself.

Next, finish mounting the new bow lights in the original Outrage location. Check! Not original lights, but they look pretty good.

Next, remove old bow light from t-top and mount new masthead light in that location. Check!

Next, wire new bow lights into existing console switch. Oooo. What a mess under there. It is not on my list of projects to totally rewire the console, but it is really tempting. At the very least, I want to locate all abandonned wires and remove them. Then label the fuse panel and try to route wiring up and out of the way to minimize strain on the connectors.

Earlier this week I cut the hole in the console for the new Northstar flow meter and obtained new fuel line so I can cut the fuel flow transducer into the fuel line properly. I will try to get this project wired and plumbed in the next couple of evenings or so.

I am trying to get the list shortened up so that I can get the boat out of the shop for a few days of winter salmon fishing before it closes the end of the year for a a month and a half. After the closure, I will put her back in and finish off the remainder of the list.

Doug

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I'm out as of last weekend, yesterday I swept out all the leaves, and washed the hull, and flushed/fogged the engine, I covered the boat by running a rope down the middle supported by wood, it's like trying to cover a "Bath Tub", damn cold out yesterday too, great day for "Fun with water and hose", still need to get the battery out, adjust boat on trailer, etc.. winter projects are "Water pump" (low hours but, on the 3rd season), all the drain tubes need replacing, trailer bearings need to be checked, they are 17 years old (original) they do 6 miles a year (to the ramp for the seasonal splash, and from the ramp for the fall haul), the "Ablative" bottom paint did what it said on the can, no more sanding and scraping, just a new coat in the spring. I made a new "Tide Clock" to mount, I used an old pressure meter (took the guts out and installed the quarts movement, very easy to do, and inexpensive as well, under $20, it's small, and water proof).
mw

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$3950.00? Sold! :D:D:D:D I'm sure its worth much more now.

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Engine painted, hatches re-carpeted, still needs completion.

http://whalercentral.com/forum/viewthread.php?forum_id=14&thread_id=2249#post_10590

1981 Grady White 204C
Re-core coffin lid and helm floor.

[IMG]http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e283/Protek9543/P1010026-1.jpg[/IMG]

1979 15' Whaler
Replace all wood, repaint interior, paint motor (Johnson 50hp), rig.

http://whalercentral.com/forum/viewthread.php?forum_id=14&thread_id=2197#post_12384

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I am feeling a lot better about the wiring in the console. I did not rewire the boat, but I spent several hours in the console. Although not real sanitary, it looks a lot better under there. At least I have all the conductors and fuses marked now and the wiring is routed up and out of the way in a somewhat neat and orderly manner.

Next, reinstall the starboard deck plate and the access panel. This will complete the wiring part of the project for now.

Next, I have a stainless steel cover plate laid out to cut. It will be used to cover the 1- 1/4" hole in the aft end of the starboard gunnel cap where the crappy aftermarket stern light was located.

I would rather patch the hole with gelcoat, but I need more practice with the patch paste. The hole is partially in nonskid and partially in smooth gelcoat- not an easy patch by any means. The stainless plate will have the same footprint and fastener hole pattern as the light base. It will work for now.

I am a little achy from all the contortionist moves it takes to work inside the console, so I think I'll hit the hay.

Have a good evening,
Doug

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I added a couple things to my list when I was at the boat this weekend. Top on the list is to cleanup the wiring. When I redid the boat last spring I left a lot of wires longer than was necessary, for items like the trim tabs and the stern light. This spring I hope to spend some time shortening them, tucking them away in cable runs to free up the console interior and make it look neater.
Added to the list are
Make new teak trim for console where it attaches to the deck
finish or replace dash panels
consider installing iPod connection and speakers.

I also measured the large console door and I don't believe even the super console door will fit. rough opening for the door is 26 inches wide by 10 1/2 inches high

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Kamie,

I think you just added something new to my list.

A better way to connect the ipod on the boat. Now I use a cassette adapter from the cassette player to the ipod. I would like to have a better set up for this, although I think the only way to do it would be to replace the AM/FM/casette with something that has an MP3 input.

I think this is going to have to wait until next winter.

Doug

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The last days of December were not as cold as they could have been. Checked off the to-do list so far

1. purchase and install the fly top / side curtains <- need to purchase a new forward shelter but the fly top is installed.

2. install the sun top <- I need to swap tracks and the sun top will be installed.

3. chip away the wooden strakes attached to the hull bottom <- these are off, leaving me 4 holes to patch. Must have been installed prior to bottom paint since there is smooth hull under them.