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I have searched the forums quite a bit but find little on installing a 12 Receptacle for a center console Whaler. Of course it can be installed in the console but the wire becomes a tripping hazard. I believe whaler installs a Cannon Down rigger receptacle inside the gunnel....I saw a boat with this. How does one route the wiring? Is this done at the factory prior to final assembly? I have a Scotty down rigger but that should not matter. I have not found anything about where the wire traces go from the console to the engine or to the bow light. Can one run some # 10 wire from the battery to the inside of the gunnel for a receptacle?

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I am not familar with Boston Whaler offering this feature in any of the models under 20'.

There is no method to run a wire after assembly. The gunnels (sides) and below the deck are foam filled. The only rigging tubes are to the stern and in later years to the bow.

One method owners use is to run the wire across the deck under a cable/wire protector/chase. Can use wire mould on the vertical.

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Thanks for the idea on an external cable guide. I thought the foam filling would provide an obstacle. The wire loom and steering cable leave the center console under the deck and appear in the starboard stern corner. While the two stern corners are identical in shape the Starboard corner has an access port on the top. ..... there must be a method to replace the steering cable? Perhaps when a boat is built they run the cable for the transducer, no that makes no sense. If the boat is bought without electronics it must be possible to run the depth transducer cable later?

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There is a rigging tunnel moulded into the hull that runs from the starboard aft quarter to the floor under the console.

From Boston Whaler:

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Thanks! That is fairly straight forward. I wonder if a person could run a snake through the tunnel, it might take several attempts with a flexible snake. But, if one could get the snake through it might be possible to pull a messenger line thru and use that line to pull two-#10 wires. These would then run from the battery, properly fused, to the starboard aft corner space that is accessed via an inspection port. It might then be possible to install a 12 V receptacle for a down rigger or a shrimp pot puller.

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There should be a pull string left in the tunnel from the factory for pulling wires through.

If no string, you can use on of the existing wires in the console. Disconnect at the console, attach a pull string (tie off end in console) and pull it back to stern.

Once back at the stern, attach the new wires, wire used and a NEW string and pull that back to the console.

Now you have: original wire, new cables, new pull string.

For selecting wire gauge for puller, look at peak amp draw, calculate amp loss due to distance and select proper gauge.

You will want the new wires on a separate fuse in the console.

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Wow, an existing messenger wire would be nice. Using an existing wire to establish a messenger is a great idea. Yes, the current draw is a consideration. We have a Scotty down rigger mount on our 13 ft sport. Two summers ago we had it in Prince William Sound Alaska. The shrimp at 500 feet were not so great but we re rigged our pots and set them at 700 feet where we did considerably better. Usually when we pull these pots we idle the engine (in this case an Evinrude Etech 40 HP) to keep up the voltage. Never have blown a fuse, no breakers on the 13 ft sport. The ace line hauler does the job well and Betty is excellent at stacking line in baskets! We both eat the shrimp.

We don't yet own a Montauk 15 but I have been studying them intensely for the past six weeks and we have first right or refusal for one to be made in March 2021. I have been making scale drawings of bridles and calculating bridle line loads. We intend pick it up and put it on the upper deck of our DeFever. The 13 ft Sport has been our dinghy for 20 years and we are looking to replace it.

Thanks for your assistance. I now see a clear path to making a connection for the Scotty and Ace Line hauler at the aft starboard corner of the Montauk 150.

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Many thanks for the guidance. A small note: yes, wire size is important and the longer the run the more important it is to pay attention to proper sizing. There is voltage drop or voltage loss experienced at the load when current flows. There is never current loss. Current is continuous throughout the circuit and is the same everywhere. You said current loss but I am sure you intended to say voltage ioss. Again, your comments and explanations have given me the guidance and understanding I needed. This forum is a great resource because of guys like you. Thanks!

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Have you done a test drive of the Montauk 150?

How much gear/people will you typically run with?

I have not been impressed with the power on the Montauk 150 and have posted the comment ever since I did a sea trial the first year they were introduced.

I think you may be underwhelmed by the 60hp max hp. Even solo, the top WOT speed was less than expected. This model weights the same as a classic Montauk 17 but has a max hp rating 40hp less.

Given it's weight, it really should have a 90hp engine.

If you can find an owner local to you, ask them for their observations. Ask for a ride. Worth investigation prior to spending the big $.

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Thanks, I am sure you are right about the Montauk 150 being under powered. Our new 13 Sport came with a 25 Hp Merc. Fine for 2 but loaded it had real problems getting out of the hole. Switched to a 40 hp Etec, 4 blades, it jumps out of the hole.

My fundamental problem is my tender lifting davit on our DeFever is limited to 1750 lbs lift. This is a true capability. The 150 Montauk with anchor, fuel, fish package must be about 1470 lbs. Manageable with a margin. Add bottom paint, down rigger mounts, external fuel filter, spare small fuel container, etc. and it is easy to gain more weight.. I am cautious about what any boat "weighs" very few people really know what their boat weighs, very few have done the measurement. I took the 13 sport on a trailer to a mover's scale weighed it and separately weighed the trailer. The Sport was about 1050 lb. At that time I had a davit with 1200 lb capability.

So, the issue is what is my boating style? I want to get a load our of the hole with some ease and I don't care much about the top speed. So I my thinking is I should consider the largest diameter lower pitch prop, possibly 4 bladed that will easily plane a load. I can watch the tachometer and be careful not to over speed the engine. Or......should I go for a 16 ft Lund fisherman with a BIG motor? I have plenty of time to fully commit to buying the 150 Montauk for a tender, thru February before I pull the trigger. Many many thanks for your comments and thoughts I am sure you are right. I am searing for prop information for the Montauk 150 and believe I will start a new thread.

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If you are not worried about top end, a good 4 bladed prop will handle the load.

If it meets your davit constraints, I would choose a Montauk 150 as it is over another brand.

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Thanks, The Montauk 150 is a much better fishing platform than our 13 Sport. We enjoyed the Sport but with the new davit capability we can now comfortably lift 1600 lbs with with a 150lb margin. I have complete faith in the new davit it costs more than the fully tricked out Montauk, is built in Canada by a very reputable firm, and has 4 hydraulic functions (lift-lower, rotate, extend-retract, boom up-down) We have to lift the dinghy about 15 feet to clear the upper deck rails. I will start a thread on prop sizing for meeting my needs with the Montauk 150. Thanks Thanks Thanks