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How can I rebed screws in the hull.

Example: rail mount, bow hatch
Thx

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What year/model of boat do you have?

Are they loose, lost "bite"?

Which screws, exactly. Rail screw or rail base? Hinge screw into lid or into hull?

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Montauk 17 1987

There is no bite.
The rail base in to hull and Less severe the T joints.

For the locker it’s the screws in to the hull in general. I can manage the teak.

Thanks

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For the rail base/screws in hull. My technique is to over drill the hole, tape off the area a good 2-3" all around with painters tape, fill hole 1/2 full with gorilla glue (expanding epoxy). Let cure, trim off excess, retap hole. Insert screw.

* Do not let the Gorilla glue spill on to the gelcoat, hence the tape.*

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For a slightly different approach:

1. Drill out stripped hole twice the diameter of the screw .
2. Slightly counter sink the hole edge, for better bonding of filler at the surface.
3. fill with 3M Marine High Strength Repair Filler
4. sand and polish flush
5. punch center of the repair circle and re-drill.

https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-u...amp;rt=rud

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I've got a similar concern about my deck screws, some of which are sunk way too far into the deck, others are missing. I'm a new owner to a 1985 22' Outrage that had been thoroughly abused.

For the deep counter-sunk screws I will likely take Finnegan and Phil T's advice and fill with epoxy like West System or a filler such as Interlux Watertite.

But, for the rest of the screws, I'm thinking of taking them out, and re-bedding them with butyl tape, sikaflex 291 or LifeSeal Silicone, just to help ensure no more water seeps through them.

Would love any thoughts you have on whether this is necessary and which of the 3 products to use :) Many thanks!

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I have a third technique which is my preferred method. It does not require drilling out the existing hole. It has not failed me yet but if it does......I can go with another method that requires drilling. (stated above). I ream/clean the hole, vacuum and get out any loose stuff. I then make several thin splinters (1 large splinter does not work as well). I fill the hole with inject-able 2 part epoxy glue (they have nice kits for this) and jam in the splinters. The wood gives the screw bite and the epoxy holds in place. It sometimes takes a day or so to cure because no air gets to the lower portion of the epoxy.

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I just discovered a quite easy solution for tightening spinning screws to the hand rails. Instead of drilling out the hole to clear debris and filling it with marine tex for a retap. I cleared all excess debris from the hole inserted a thin vertical zip tie and refastened the original screw. It grabbed instantly and I was able to tighten down the railing easily. I know it’s a YouTube hack but so far I’m really amazed with the results...

2000 Dauntless 16’