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I have a 1999 Ventura 20 and I noticed one of the plastic "push to fit" thru-hulls is leaking. Looks like I can get the tubes with no problem from Sue at Beacon but what is the recommended way to remove them without damaging the gelcoat/fiberglass?

Any gotchas or recommendations for installing the new tubes I need to be aware of? I replaced the brass thru hulls on my old Revenge, and am hoping these are a little easier.

Any recommendations on if i should replace it with a different style thru-hull (Stainless, etc.)?

Thanks

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I learned this technique from a crusty (not old) whaler owner.

Threaded rod 1' longer than the tube length.
Fat washers in a diameter larger than drain tube.
Set of smaller washers.
Set of nuts

IF you lay it out it would look like this

nut-smallish washer -WIDE washer [....drain......]Wide washer- smallish washer-nut.

Install the first set on the end of the rod.

Goop up good with SEALANT not adhesive.
Install the inside end of the tube.
Insert the rod from the inside.
Insert the outside drain part.
Install fat washer, smallish washer and nut on the outside of the threaded rod and tighten down till the sealant oozes (if it does not ooze, remove and re-goop).
Remove rod
Wipe off excess sealant.

This help?

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Thanks Phil! I can see exactly what you described.

Any suggestions on how to get the thing out? I was thinking about taking a flat head screwdriver and simply cracking off the end that is on the inside of the boat. It is probably so brittle, it won't take much, but if there is a safer/less destructive method, I'm open to suggestions.

You thinking 4200 would be a good choice for the sealant?

Thanks again!

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Technique sounds fine.

Some use 4000UV. Personally I prefer sealant (Life Caulk) over adhesive/sealants.

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Thanks Phil.

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I was able to get the bilge and the fish locker tube out without too much trouble. The ends (inside the boat) pretty much just pried off with some help from a large flathead screwdriver and a hammer.

There was water behind the drains and I hope that solves the oozing water I have seen in the bilge. If not there are 4 more closer to the waterline on the transom, two floor drains and a bait tank drain. All plastic.

These press to fit drains sure seem very cheap and prone to failure. Is Whaler still using these drains or should I look into installing a screw on type drain or even go back to the brass tubes? If its recommended I stick with the press to fit style, I'll plan to replace them every 3-4 years.

Thanks!

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No reason you can't go brass.

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I would seal the entire hole with sealant before installing the drain tube. This way water will not seep into anything.

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I removed the 4 snap fit drains near the waterline on the transom. I found a simple way to remove them, just take a deep well socket and tap out the inner tube. Couldn't have been easier.

The 4 drains all had water behind them. I also removed the two floor drains which were wet.

I'm letting everything dry out for a couple weeks before sealing them back up. Guessing I'll go back with the snap fit drains. The drain holes are 1 3/8" so I probably can't find a flange tool that size to make my own tubes.

I removed the bilge pump which was screwed directly to the floor (a few inches forward of the bilge drain and clear water seeped out of there for a day and a half until I had to leave. Probably still draining out. Hoping that water is just from the bad drains and a poorly sealed bilge pump installation. (The boat is in a lift so its not fresh water coming in from the Lake)

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Once the drain tube holes have dried out, I recommend you coat all the walls with epoxy and seal them but good.

Figure every screw and fitting that penetrated the deck, cap, gunnel was NOT sealed. I am doing a resto on my 1992 and only the bow rail screws has sealant. I will be removing everything a bit at a time, adding sealant and then reinstalling.

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Thanks Phil. I'll do that. Once I know I no longer have the fountain of middle age springing out of the bilge, I'll seal those bilge pump screw holes with the epoxy and secure a piece of Starboard to the hull and use it as the mount for my bilge pump and float switch.

I had a simple project a couple weeks ago where I replaced the battery tray rods with straps. The 4 rods made it nearly impossible to get the two batteries in and out of the port side compartment just under the windshield. I noticed none of the battery box screws had sealant on them. Maybe they figured there would not be much water getting into the compartment
but why not take a few extra seconds to go it right and use sealant?

I sealed them up well when I reinstalled the screws. To top it off they used a metal strap across the batteries to hold them down.
Perfect opportunity to make a shower of sparks if you're not extremely careful when lining up the metal strap with the rods. I thought at the time who the heck rigged this boat and what other surprises am I in for.

This Fall I plan to remove the swim ladder platform to make sure it's good and sealed and am going to remove and replace the engine mounting bolts. Wouldn't be surprised if they have no sealant either. I don't see any reside around the bolts on the inside or outside of the hull. Either they did a great job cleaning up or just bolted it up. After seeing how they screwed the bilge pump directly to the floor of the hull and used a non insulated metal strap in the battery compartment, I'm going with the latter.

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For those plastic thru hulls from Sue I would use 5200 which is strongest and is permanent. This is what you want. You will not be removing it in the future and want it to last. If you epoxy the inside of the hole I would sand it will 150 rolled sandpaper and use acetone to clean the blushing off of it so you sealant will actually stick to it. You want good sheer strength which the 5200 has so the tube does not try to spin as you screw plug in and out over the years.

For the compression fit is would use the thread rod washers and nuts like Phil mentions.
Archie

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I would personally stay away from 5200 which is an adhesive vs sealant. Impossible to remove without damaging the entire area if for any reason you need to go back in there. I use LifeSeal for an application like yours. If for some reason it does not seal with the initial install........a major oops.

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Thanks guys. Great to "see" your Garris!

I will definitely go the Epoxy route to line the drain holes once they are completely dry.

I have always been more of an engine guy so I never worked with fiberglass, epoxy, etc. but I want to start learning. What better place than a section of the boat nobody will ever see. Do you have recommendations as to what formula of epoxy to use and if any fillers should be added to the mix?

Thanks!

John