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has anyone fixed a significant crack in their teak recently? I have cracks that I'd like to fill on both sides of my 88 Outrage and am wondering what the experts think the best method is. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

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Cracks can be filled with a suitable wood putty followed by refinishing. A split piece of teak would best be repaired by replacement.

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I had a few cracked pieces in my Menemsha project.

I glued and clamped the pieces first. Then as the first step to refinish I got clear epoxy from Tap Plastics and coated them. After that, I put on coats of spar varnish.

I was a complete wood working / finishing rookie, so it took me forever. Turned out nice, but fishing boat quality.

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I have repaired cracks in wood. The repair is the determined by the size/type of crack. I use a product called "Git Rot" but many similar systems on the market. Starts with gouging /cleaning the crack then a 2 part resin. Very sticky and messy, attempt cleanliness. They then have a 2 part filler. Similar to Bondo. That fills the crack and drys/reacts very similar to Bondo. Now the tricky part. You need splinters of the identical wood pre cut/split to embed in the void with plenty of saw dust from same. best to not overfill the void with the 2 part filler for space for the splinter to nestle in. Go at it a second time. If the 2 part filler oozes out have a dental type tool handy to scrape it out. When just enough space to accept saw dust work in the saw dust. Even lay some glad wrap over the area and trowel flat.

I have worked on some old Victorians, exposed beams, etc...... where the removal and replacement of wood not feasible. Not perfect because the wood never a perfect match. Sand flat. A fine line with the saw dust application. Too much 2 part filler and you expose the filler which is difficult to work with once it has hardened. Better to have a small void and do a mini batch. If a tiny void I have used wood glue with saw dust. If the epoxy resin gets too close to the surface the repair picks up a sheen.

Practice a few times with the material. Very sticky and messy.

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I have used wood glue & sawdust to fill in some cracks on thwart seats. Works pretty good after varnish etc. I never thought of git-rot.

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The Git Rot method would be for a pretty major sized repair that has the room for the filler splinter after the resin coat. The resin needs to dry completely before you continue. For paint grade repair on wood I clamp or attach a removable piece of resawn plywood siding on top of the "Bondo " coat. I match the direction of the grain and when you pull it off, the soft outer layer of the plywood sticks to the under coat and you can touch it up to match the wood grain finish. I just use a small piece of plywood for mixing and work from the plywood. I clean the plastic trowels on the square outer edge. Keep plenty of rags and the cleaning solvent handy with ready access. You can even use some of the solvent to thin down the resin to penetrate the wood. I have used turkey basters for the resin application.

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I have developed a very successful way to repair gunwale board cracks on the 2nd generation of Outrages. I have used the following method on my 1989 Outrage 25, which has varnished teak gunwales.

First I wet down and fill the crack with "Gorilla" polyurethane glue. Slice off dried glue overage and sand flush.

Using a supply of 3/8 and 1/2 " diameter teak plugs, I drill (forstner bit) out a series of holes the full thickness of the board and length of the crack, kind of like a string of beads, and glue in the teak plugs, with the plug grain PERPENDICULAR to the split. The half circle of each side of the plug has increased surface bonding area and basically glues the board back into one piece. The perpendicular grain direction of the plugs avoids future splits through the pegs. If the crack in the board is wide, use the 1/2" diameter plugs, otherwise the 3/8 will do. Sanded flush and re-varnished, this repair looks surprising good and barely shows. The old crack virtually disappears, replaced with new wood pegs (bungs). If you need to drill a string of holes, each just touching the next, it takes two steps, drilling every other hole, then inserting the plug and sanding, then coming back to do the "in-between" holes/pegs.

I have also used this method for cracks (checks) in teak hatch covers, after first gluing and clamping the original crack.

You can either cut your own teak plugs, or buy them in bags of 100 from Jamestown Distributors. Because of the 3/4" thickness of the gunwale boards, you may need two plugs for each hole.

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Finnegan,
Yours is the very first intentional use utilizing the expansive properties of Gorilla Glue. I am now "taking note" of using it as a "filler". When I have used the glue in the past (especially the first couple of times) I was always disappointed with the mess and dislodging of the glued together pieces. I generally stayed away from using it. Thank you for your posting.

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Garris - Gorilla glue is used in "the hockey puck" method.

When using an expanding glue, clamps are required.

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Phil.
I know about the clamps and such. But that expansion is most irritating. Going back over it with a knife, a slight blow out here and there, etc.... For simple gluing projects I go with 2 part epoxy like Loctite. I have the "gun" and extra syringes. I can inject it and it stays stable. However, in a deep hole without air getting to it, can stay green for a day plus. I can see using the Gorilla Glue for backing (never thought of using it that way) and such. The Loctite with splinters is my first line of attack for stripped screw holes and has worked very well for me. Finnegan's use of Gorilla Glue gave me a new entry for "my bag of tricks".

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depends on location of crack. The crax on my gunwale were on the very end at the stern, just outside the area that is covered by the rubrail. I drilled 2 holes horizontally ( using a drill press) to take some long #4 flathead screws, cleaned the area with some acetone ( teak is oily and does'nt glue well unless you surprise it!),and immediately put some epoxy in the crax and put the screws into pull the joint together. The crax disappeared.