Whaler Central - Boston Whaler Boat Information and Photos

Posted by robb huff on 08/10/19 - 8:07 AM

Need advice -

Both transom bilge pumps have failed. One is controlled by off/on switch at helm (may have been left on overnight and failed, or may be a bad switch) - the other should be automatic float that should work regardless if batteries on/off.

Suggestions on both replacement appreciated. (note some pumps $17, some $150 - i've got to believe one would want to invest in a reliable version.
robb
2004 Conquest 305; twin Yam 250s
san diego

Posted by Phil T on 08/10/19 - 9:07 AM

I find simple is better.

Complicated is more expensive and does not last.

Separate pumps and float switches. High quality marine wire with heat shrink connectors and liquid electrical tape.

Rule and Johnson Controls are two good brands.

Posted by acassidy on 08/11/19 - 2:45 PM

Since both stopped working at the same time, I would check their ground. I bet they are big 1500 GPH pumps and I would replace with the same size they are. I would not go any smaller.

Posted by gchuba on 08/11/19 - 6:42 PM

Both pumps burning up at the same time.......something seems funny. Try to determine the length of wire run from battery to switch to pumps. Bilge pumps are high amperage and undersized wiring could accelerate their decline (and could be hazardous). Once you determine the length of run, the wire sizing will tell you the maximum sized pump through amp usage. All my bilge pumps are independent of the battery switch. They are wired directly to the battery(s) with a dedicated circuit breaker along with fuses/switches and the such. I use the Johnson series of pumps myself.

edit: you also need a backflow fitting on the discharge hose. With an automatic float switch the water left in the discharge tube can backflow to the pump and re-start the float switch. It would recycle the pump to death. The negative wire needs too be heavy also. Does not need to run parallel with the positive.

Edited by gchuba on 08/11/19 - 10:22 PM

Posted by acassidy on 08/12/19 - 5:54 PM

The back flow should be close to the pump, i would say with in a couple of inches. So it would be
Pump, short hose, back flow, several feet of hose, gunnel through hull.

Are the 2 pumps on a Y adapter and use the same through hull?
Archie

Posted by robb huff on 08/13/19 - 9:04 AM

got it.

I can shorten my 'long' hose (to overboard), and splice/add a short hose and the preventer (as it always bugged me that once the bilge switch turned off, a considerable amount of water would back flow into the bllge.

Turns out I misread the 'two' pumps. They are separate pumps, one amidships, and the in the transom (which I'm replacing). I mistook the float for another pump, but now that i've crawled into it, I understand the pump and the automatic float that is the basic safety measure. (I did succeed in establishing I had a good ground and power, so I'm certain it's the pump, and am replacing float as well as they are 15 yrs old.

Posted by gchuba on 08/13/19 - 9:43 AM

#10

When getting the pump some have the backflow valve with them. Nothing fancy, they look like a rubber "party favor" that if you blew into them would make a "ftbbbbbb" type sound. Open rubber one side towards the pump and the closed end to the hose. Should fit right into an adapter fitting at the pump. Tiny little things without a lot of stress to them. The bilge pumps do not put out a lot of pressure and too big a backflow could compromise the pump.

Posted by robb huff on 08/16/19 - 10:38 AM

#11

how about this: the Rule 2000GPH has a 'photo' of a check valve in the instructions - with a NO CHECKVALVE - circle with a line through it......???

I've assembled and marked the check valve so I'm stuck with it, and inclined to install regardless, but since they took the time to include a photo....wondering why it would be bad juju to install.

Posted by robb huff on 08/16/19 - 10:47 AM

#12

Posted by robb huff on 08/20/19 - 10:31 AM

#14

FYI

Hello Robb,
Thank you for contacting Xylem.
A check valve in a bilge discharge line may cause the pump to become air locked and prevent the pump from pumping out the water.
Also, spring loaded check valves are very stiff and the bilge pump may not produce enough pressure to open the valve.
The bilge pumps are high flow but low pressure.

Regards,

Paul Campagna
Market Application Manager

(while my check valve was not spring loaded....I will follow their recommendation and live with the residue that flows back into the bilge after the pump is off....and of course, I opened, assembled, and used a marker to designate flow direction so....check valve for sale, unused.

over and out

Posted by gchuba on 08/21/19 - 7:48 PM

#15

mybe you can research Johnson Pumps. The local marine electronics shop prfers them over others with their quality of construction. Their "check valve" is included in their kits. Nothing more than a little $3 rubber party favor. Swing checks and spring checks have no place with the bilge pumps. Way overkill and can damage the pump. I have had no issues with the Johson series of pumps or the check valve. In fact, the lowest bilge pump I had in the bottom of my cuddy cabin of my 22' 1979 Revenge melted from recycling water (no check valve). Lucky it was only the pump that melted. You need marine specific matching fittings for these bilges.