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I want to replace my rubric with the commercial one. What size and length should I get? Any recommendations for who to order from?

Boat is 1986 25' Outrage

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I see there are couple different sizes 1 7/8" and 2 3/8".

Has anyone on here done this before who can recommend one size over the other?

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You want the big one for the 25' hull. Check out Taco rubrails.

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You should contact Barbour Plastics. They manufacture the Whaler rails. I got my track/rubber bumper style from them. They have a cross reference chart because the Whaler rail is not exclusive for Whalers only. Other boats use the same system. I found their sales staff to be very helpful.

edit: they manufacture any number of rub rail systems. I recall that the holes drilled in my rub rail track were closer together than the original Whaler one because intended for another make of boat. Check out their catalog and order wider than existing to hide old marks. You do need to know the total length of rail that you need. I would recommend not measuring too tight. A little excess is nice.

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I measured it today. Current rub rail is 1 7/8" but can take up to 2 3/8". I think I am going with 1 7/8 only bc the 2 3/8 only comes in 100' that I could find. Not worth 2x as much $

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Your gonna need at least 60 ft. I recommend the heavy duty one even though it cost a lot more. You won't regret it if you bump into something hard.

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I have wanted to replace the rub rails on my Montauk 17 for a while now. Would be able to run new wires for the bow lights as well. How difficult is it?

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Heat is your friend. The factory used to heat up the heavy duty rubrails in a oven. I put one in a large black trash bag and left it in the hot sun to soften it up. An extra set of hands helps.

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I did my Montauk last season. I got the parts from Sue including some extra rivets. 3 of us did the job with a heat gun and a pneumatic rivet gun. It wasn't too bad and came out nice.

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I did my rub rail. The rub rail was an easy install compared to the track. As member mentioned years ago "......working with the track was like working with coiled concrete...". Never a truer statement. I used clamps along the way. There was a slight curve/bow in a small section of the track from the factory. No amount of the screws I used (I prefer screws with the track instead of rivets) would cinch it tight. I left it in the sun with a couple of blocks and clamps to straighten it for a couple weeks. I just mitigated the issue to make it acceptable. The track install is the difficult part.

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I forgot about the clamps. We had 6 and kept moving them ahead, The track was definitely the hard part but doable.