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Searched the web and this forum high and low before posting this. I’m currently in the process of building a new mahogany interior on my 1972 13’.

When building the console and seat clamps, do I drill all of my holes prior to the varnish process? Or afterward?

Also, when assembling the varnished console pieces, is there a wood glue to helps bond the pieces that are screwed together?

Should I assemble the console then varnish it? Or varnish then assemble?

Thanks!

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I do all prep work for finishing before assembly, but assemble any glued together parts before finishing.

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Thanks for the quick reply!

Do you put a dab of silicone on the screws for assembly?

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NO dab, assemble all, then finish as Walt said.
If you are worried about future water penetration, you could use a penetrating epoxy sealant(water thin) as a "primer" to give the wood better long term protection before assembly and final varnish finishing.
Here are a couple of links to such primer http://www.smithandcompany.org/CPES/i...index.html
https://www.jamestowndistributors.com...t8QAvD_BwE

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I drill all holes before finishing so that some of the varnish has to chance to seal the raw wood in the hole.
Sorry to disagree with the other poster, but I never use glue so that the next time the wood needs to be disassembled for refinishing, it will come apart without wrecking the pieces. BTW this is the way Whaler originally put it together.
Put sealant where the screws penetrate the fiberglass, especially the floor bracket that supports the console vertical board.

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Thanks! I like this idea better. Will drill and screw everything together (that way I can fit-test). Then diasssemble, varnish, then reassemble.

Won’t use any silicone on the drilled holes in the wood, but plan to use sealant on the fiberglass holes for the floor mount and side rails .

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The console on my 1981 Sport 17 was screwed and glued by Boston Whaler. The screws were all covered with wood plugs. It was then finished as an assembly. There is no taking it apart without wrecking it.

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Unless you have templates of the old wood work.......I have started using cheaper plywood or lumber when I am building something not very straight forward. I have burned up some fairly expensive wood in the past. When I was installing some wood work on my 1979 22' Revenge......what appeared to be parallel pieces, square corners, flat decking, etc..... actually had some minor differences. The wood workers at Whaler made the pieces look square and consistent but the molded sides and joints were not perfectly square or uniform. Better to burn some 3/8 plywood and then duplicate the finished piece.