Thread subject: Whaler Central - Boston Whaler Boat Information and Photos :: 18 Outrage bow pulpit
Posted by jflots on 03/06/18 - 10:50 AM
#1
We have a 1988 18 outrage that I'm considering building a pulpit for. Has anyone had a problem with the pulpit and/or the anchor getting hung on the trailer's winch stand when launching? Also, what is the thickness of the pulpit? thanks.
Posted by jflots on 03/06/18 - 10:58 AM
#2
Also, the wood location drawing doesn't show the bow. Is there a drawing somewhere that shows the aluminum in the bow? thanks.
Posted by Joe Kriz on 03/06/18 - 12:38 PM
#4
The drawing for the Pulpit is in our Downloads section.
Posted by jflots on 03/06/18 - 12:45 PM
#5
Thanks Phil. Are the 2 covered/hidden screws in the back using the holes from the original bow bit?
Posted by Joe Kriz on 03/06/18 - 1:00 PM
#6
That info is in the drawing once you download it.
Posted by JRP on 03/06/18 - 1:17 PM
#7
jflots wrote:
We have a 1988 18 outrage that I'm considering building a pulpit for. Has anyone had a problem with the pulpit and/or the anchor getting hung on the trailer's winch stand when launching? Also, what is the thickness of the pulpit? thanks.
Although not an identical configuration, our 19 Outrage II has its factory anchor pulpit/roller that in no way interferes with launching or retrieving with the trailer. (The 19 Outrage II is the same hull has the Outrage 18.)
The anchor pulpit/roller on the 19 Outrage II is a metal (stainless steel) version that bolts flush on deck and sticks out maybe half a foot or so from the stem. It allows the anchor to be stored in the roller, always ready for deployment. Just thought I'd mention this alternative to building the wooden platform.
Edited by JRP on 03/06/18 - 1:18 PM
Posted by Finnegan on 03/06/18 - 7:03 PM
#8
As the person who made the Outrage 18 bow pulpit drawing, I would not recommend an attempt at adding one of these to your boat. It is a difficult installation, which is why the factory only offered this option as factory installed. It was not available as a dealer installed option. In 1986, the price was $500 extra for the pulpit option. Seems like a deal now!
First of all, you need the bow rail extension parts, which would require difficult fabrication. This rail also serves the purpose of holding the pulpit down against any upward lifting force from water coming over the bow. I know of one person who did a home-made pulpit installation, using my drawing for the wood shape (the easiest part of the job), but not following the attachment fittings details, nor the rail extension, and in burying the bow in a wave tore the pulpit off along with a chunk of the boat itself. Result was a total loss of the hull.
Take a look at the five photos in this link:
http://smg.photobucket.com/user/lgolt...amp;page=1
Even the two side rubbing strake fittings are difficult to fabricate and bend to shape.
There are two machine bolts into the aluminum plate at the back, covered in the black caulking. There are also through bolts UNDER the 60 degree base fittings which can't be seen. In addition, there are at least two (maybe all four) 5/16" machine screws holding the cleat in place that also thread all the way down into the aluminum plate to hold the overall pulpit in place.
All in all, this is a difficult installation, which I personally would not attempt. The factory installation is rock solid and works well, with no problems at all. I also have the factory installation on my Outrage 25, also rock solid. Unfortunately, very few of these pulpit installations were factory ordered on the 18-25 Outrages and Outrage Cuddys, so boats that have them are rare.
But if you want to do it, do it right and be sure to include the rail extension and cleat, and all facteners. It will be costly to have the special parts fabricated, and require a highly skilled person to do the drilling, tapping, rail work, etc.
On my trailer, there is absolutely no interference with winch stand/bow stop in launching and retrieving.
Edited by Finnegan on 03/06/18 - 9:49 PM
Posted by JRP on 03/07/18 - 3:48 AM
#9
In case Finnegan's description above dissuades you from copying the oem pulpit/roller, here is a link to the stainless steel rollers offered by Sea-Dog. These are very similar to the rollers used on our 1992 19 Outrage II (the MEDIUM ANCHOR BOW ROLLER is a close match). Another brand that offers similar rollers is Windline.
http://www.sea-dog.com/categories/anc...bow-roller
Posted by jflots on 03/07/18 - 4:36 AM
#10
Thanks for all the input, especially Finnegan's. I understand all the structural concerns and the craftsmanship involved, and am not intimidated by the build. I tend to overbuild things as it is. Looking at where the bow rail stations attach to the pulpit, I doubt they do much other that hiding the fasteners tapped into the aluminum. If they were farther forward they might help. It's tempting to run a gusset underneath, from the through bolts at the rubrail going forward tying into the rollers hardware.
Is the original pulpit 1 1/2" thick? Thanks again for the imput.
Posted by Finnegan on 03/07/18 - 8:20 AM
#11
Well. if you think you can handle it, I'd say go for it , as it is an extremely nice addition to any 2nd generation Outrage.
The through bolts hidden under the rail bases actually go all the way through the hull, with nuts on the bottom side. You also need the plywood spacer under the pulpit where the hull gunwale profile drops down.
Since I have never seen one of these add-on pulpits done correctly, it will be nice to see how yours comes out.
Posted by jflots on 03/09/18 - 4:32 AM
#12
I ordered the Windline urm-2 anchor roller. Best price I found was Great Lakes Skipper at $69, compared to over $100 at most other places. Getting the existing bow bit is a challenge, stainless bolts into 30 year old aluminum. One stripped head, one broken head. Not surprised but not the start I was hoping for, I can drill them out. After this is done I'm planning on a bulkhead divider in the floor hatch to hold the anchor rode forward and an insulated space aft for storage or a fish box. Thanks again.
Posted by JRP on 03/09/18 - 5:59 AM
#13
jflots wrote:
I ordered the Windline urm-2 anchor roller. Best price I found was Great Lakes Skipper at $69, compared to over $100 at most other places. Getting the existing bow bit is a challenge, stainless bolts into 30 year old aluminum. One stripped head, one broken head. Not surprised but not the start I was hoping for, I can drill them out. After this is done I'm planning on a bulkhead divider in the floor hatch to hold the anchor rode forward and an insulated space aft for storage or a fish box. Thanks again.
Sorry about the frustration with the bolts. Not surprising, though.
As for the bow locker reconfiguration... Since you are making mods anyway, you might consider raising the height of the locker to make it flush with the side seats in the bow. This would create a nice level casting deck or sleeping platform, and a lot of extra volume in the locker(s). This is essentially how it was done on the 19 Outrage II, which I consider a big improvement over the 18 Outrage bow locker configuration.
Posted by jflots on 03/09/18 - 6:38 AM
#14
Since you are making mods anyway, you might consider raising the height of the locker to make it flush with the side seats in the bow. This would create a nice level casting deck or sleeping platform, and a lot of extra volume in the locker(s).
We've been debating that for a long time. I have a sketch of it somewhere. A forward triangular compartment for the rode and the lifting eye for the bitter end, with a large/deep compartment aft using the existing lid. When we first got the boat I considered those seats worthless and was surprised how often they got used. Those in combinations with the cooler make a good conversation pit. Maybe a removable piece for extended trips or camping for just the 2 of us. Thanks.
Posted by jflots on 03/14/18 - 4:20 AM
#15
Quick update with a discovery on the aluminum in the deck. The gelcoat surface on our boat is distorted along the edge of it. It's 6" wide and appears to span between the raised berm/tow rail aft to where the deck turns down to the rub rail forward. It's very clear in the right light.