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Hello all.
I just acquired a stock 1990 Rigid Raider 19 after it sat out in a northern California pig orchard for 18 years.

For those unfamiliar, she has twin OMC 70 two-stroke motors with electric trim, hydraulic steering, hull-mounted fuel filters, four huge inboard pick anchors, a raised flat deck with zero storage, and what I understand is a 56-gallon fuel tank.

This hull was designed for one purpose only and sunsets with a lounging vixen and an exotic assortment of cheeses and wines was not it.

Before considering any restoration and because she'd been out to pasture since big hair days, I yarded out the fuel tank and dug a few test sites down to the hull checking for water intrusion. Fortunately, minimal moisture was found, tank and structural foam from what I can tell are good, prepping to heal up the foam and glass and I'm sending the tank to a radiator shop to air test and clean.

The deck was designed for eight marines seated forward of the stern favored console. Intending to use her for rec offshore fishing and crabbing, I'd like to relocate the console forward of stock position about four feet. I want to open up the aft console deck area, and I hope moving the console, batteries, oil mixing tank ,and bosun forward may help prevent the hull from riding at 80 degrees when the bow is empty.

I have a few other modifications in mind to get her more functional and family friendly.

Though I have a decent amount of experience commercial fishing in small craft off Kodiak, the most work I’ve ever done to a boat is etching my name in the deck the morning after losing a hard night's catch at the bar, so, I am welcoming any input on this adventure.


* Is there a rule of thumb for the console position on this hull? Loosely I’m matching the console layout of an Outrage 19, though the hull design and weights of the two models are altogether different monkeys. The Raider has a massive fiberglass keel, very thick hull and a huge bulkhead of foam in the bow which probably helps keep the bow down regardless. Guessing at commercial spec the boat trimmed fine without troops, but still seems prudent to move the bosun closer to or forward center. Any advice on relocation of console is appreciated.

* The stock rigging ran top deck under a 24 inch wire-mold between a stern well drain hole and the console. I’d like to run all that spaghetti under the tank cover through 1.5” PVC if possible, thinking a 45 bend on each end with a small drain inside to get water from the PVC pipe to the sub deck drain trough. At the stern well side it would likely need two 45deg bends at opposite positions to properly feed rigging back to motors. Does anyone know max bend radius of throttle cables?

* There are three 4 inch diameter hull drains in the transom that all had one-way flappers on them back in the day. Hogs ate em. The only thing I've found as possible replacements are exhaust flappers. Any suggestions or advice with replacing these?

* I'm considering the installation of a bow pulpit to keep the anchor outside the hull, no bow storage. Can anyone suggest a good retrofit model?

* I will eventually install a Bow Rail and have access to a lot of 1-1/4-inch 6360T6 aluminum tubing. Any bow rail fabrication input and pros-cons of material types?

Thank you.

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All CPD boats are customizable by the customer so there isn't a "standard" location for the console.

I have seen CPD Guardian 18/19 with the console midships, slightly forward of midships and all the forward touching the bow platform.

The key thing is to find some photos so you can get an idea before hand.

If you lift the fuel tank cover, there should be a moulded channel running parallel to the tank for the rigging to sit in. You would cut a hole in the cover to enter the bottom of the console.

Most of the rails I have seen on OEM Guardians are 1" tubing that was powercoated. Then again, it's your boat and your choice.

Any photos of the boat for us to see?

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Hi, after looking at the "raider" you have endless possibilities for the interior lay out. Do several sketches and see which one is doable for your needs. Post pics before during and after the transformation. What power are you considering, twins or single? 1 1/4 tubing would be too large dia. to use as railing, trade a few sections for the 1". The exhaust flappers may work and worth trying out till you can source something else. Good luck with your project, and do post pics! Oh, and welcome to this site!

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The Outrage 19', Guardian 19', and other CPD 19' footers did not start until 1990.
Anything with 1989 and less, would have had the 18' as listed in the catalog.
1989 would be a Raider 18'

Even the 1991 catalog shows the Rigid Raider 18' listed in the catalog.
Not sure where you got your information on which Raider you have.
Please let us know a little further.

Here is a caption and photo from the 1991 Boston Whaler Catalog: 18' Rigid Raiding Craft

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Often looking like this:

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Yep, that's it.

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Corrected the name of 1989 Raider 18' for clarification.

as per my post #4 above.

In 1992 the Whaler catalog shows the Raider 19' again as posted above.
1989 and below= 18'
1990 and above= 19'

Good luck with your Whaler as it is a special CPD product for Military services, etc.

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My mistake Joe, you're right it's a 1990 19'. You can go ahead and change the thread title to reflect the boat accurately. Thanks for your help clarifying.

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What a fun hull to work with. Good luck. My 2 cents for railing is a polished stainless steel. I went 1" with welded rails at aft potion of my hull included enclosing the transom area. The finished height was 37" from the deck to top of rail. I used the original fittings for my bow rails and matched the height of the aft rails. My cuddy cabin leaves those rails at 17" from the walking surface. My boat is a 1979 22' Revenge. A nice 14" wide walk through midship. Have fun.

I built a bow pulpit with some 8/4 teak. If you are in Northern CA MacBeath Hardwood carries a selection and they will cut a shorter piece of the thicker material. Then a stainless anchor roller.

What bars did you frequent for etching material? I am most familiar with Smitty's and the 2 A.M. Club in Marin and worked my way up the Sonoma coast north to the Casino in Bodega. My favorite "elbow bender" establishments usually have work boots written into the dress code. I also have a small 23' 1978 Penn Yan with commercial Salmon Permit.
Garris

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Thanks Garris, good pointers. Still playing with the bow rail layout, having fun with the different options. I am familiar with MacBeaths, will go snoop around next time down in the hood. The bar was B&B's on Kodiak, a long time ago, back when I could hardly hold down a 5th. Now when in the Bay and fighting a mighty thirst, Quinn's Lighthouse is a usual fav.

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Great input Phil & Whalerman, really keen on using the sub-deck trough for rigging chase, way better than pvc pipe. Thanks again.
Abe

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Svendsen's in Alameda (Oakland) CA does stainless rail fabricating. I recently purchased some rail material from them and they were great to deal with. One chip in the aluminum powder coating (or moving a fishing rod holder) not repairable. Anodizing as unit difficult and welding sections requires the anodized area to be ground down. I picked the 37" rail height from my deck as a safe height for passengers and perfect height for fishing gear.

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Yeah, Svendsen's is a great boatyard. Main reason I was leaning toward aluminum is bling reduction, but hey, wrap the SS in ghillie cloth and there ya have it. Top of gunnel is 17 inches above deck, was thinking about 36-37 inch finish rail height as well, so 18 to 20 inches above gunnel at the bow tapering down to about 12 inches above gunnel at leaning post. Considering insetting 4x4x3/4 ply pads on the gunnel every 30 inches for the gunnel stanchion plates, will run it by fab company for their take.
Living in the foothills below Truckee, awesome area but marine resources are limited to a few Taiwan made yacht hats at the local surplus store. Sacramento closest hub, considering a company down there called Delta Breeze to rebuild motors and fab rails.