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All louver doors, the solid piece, foot rest and trim on my 1986 25' Outrage are in near perfect condition. I want to swap them out for either starboard or plastic hatches. Is anyone willing to trade or buy them at a price I can replace with 1/2" starboard?

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You would probably be better off in the long term to keep the teak in near perfect condition in a closet until you sell the boat. The teak will probably add value or at least desirability to a buyer.

Starboard is easy to work with basically wood working tools. You can buy some Starboard in the thicknesses you need and fabricate the parts you want to replace. If you are totally lacking in woodworking tools or skills you probably know someone locally who can cut and shape the Starboard for you. Instead of lovers, vent slots can be cut with a router. Look at a new Whaler for an idea of how to proceed.

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Why do they need vented slots?

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The slots replace louvers on the doors and are for ventilation for cooling and mildew prevention. Consoles with charging batteries generate heat and hydrogen gas and ventilation is needed to get rid of both.

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Be wary of the starboard without reinforcement. Expands, contracts, and twists with heat/cold. Very sensitive material. My starboard hard top looked like it "inflated" itself (mini explosion underneath) in the direct sun. Reinforced around the perimeter and about 16" o/c. As the temperature came down it returned to its original configuration. Leaned some on a wall and it picked up a bow (did flatten when stacked level).
Garris

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Yes, larger pieces of Starboard need reinforcement. The console side doors on two late model Whalers I've owned were Starboard and roughly 18X24 inches. They were vertically mounted, bore no weight and retained their shape well. However, I once made an on deck engine cover for a Mercruiser powered 24 footer. As it was part of the deck and was about 48X75 inches it required reinforcement with 2x4 inch boards screwed on vertically. Aluminum 1X2 inch "L" was used around the perimeter. Overall I was unhappy with the engine cover and don't recommend Starboard for large weight bearing situations.

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Anyone here varnish the doors and just clean the gunnels with no oil finish? Trying to figure out the least maintenance since I might have to keep them on there. I dont want to varnish the gunnels because imagine it is slippery...

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Can't tell you that it is going to a maintenance-free finish but I do believe getting it back to a nice finish will be a lot easier than varnish or teak oil. In any case, here is how I am proceeding with the wood work on my 1986 18 Outrage. I have replaced all teak with Africa Sapele and finishing the wood with linseed oil. The wood is still raw now and not finished yet but I expect to put between 6-8 coats on, with a lot of rubbing and sanding.

Since you aren't changing out the teak, I would clean it well, sand it well and apply linseed oil. After the 4 or 5 Th coat you will begin to see a luster in the wood that will hold and can be brought back with a lot less effort than varnish. Oh, and make sure to use boiled linseed oil

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Yes, Starboard is flexible and can warp. 3/4" would be recommended to limit these issues. the website below shows a lot of examples of true louvered doors made of Starboard. Maybe it can provide some ideas and construction technics for your project

www.louveredproductsunlimited.com

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Check out a product called Plasteak. The company replicates lots of marine parts. Located in Ohio. I have used it for several applications on my boat and been pleased.

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I bought a 1/2 sheet of black 1/2 inch thick starboard. I made a flush mount for my electronics in my electronics box. Looks nice. Now ready to start working on the doors.

Any idea what the teak doors are worth?

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No idea, but if you have them when you sell the boat it may make the boat more attractive to a buyer who is a Whaler aficionado. Put them under the bed until that time comes, I doubt you will regret it.