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The bilge pump in my 1989 Montauk sump just quit. its a rule-mate 500, that is 3+ years old. It was working just a few days ago. I did check the fuse and its not blown and the wires and connections look ok. The impeller is not jammed with debris. The light is on, on the switch board, which is odd and the batt swtich is off.
What bilge pump to you guys like for a Montauk? I would not like to have an external float switch. I think the rule-mate 500 I have is no longer available.
More details:
I have a new blue seas swtich panel (#5426044 4-Position Horizontal Circuit Breaker Panel)
It was set up so that the bilge pump could turn on via its internal float switch even when the batt switch was turned off. It could also turn on manually by the blue seas swtich.
any help would be appreciated
thanks

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One of the biggest shortcomings with bilge pumps is the wiring design. The pumps and separate float switches come with a short pigtail of wires that requires a wire splice.

The splice is the culprit in most pump failures since it sits in the bilge and the water.

I would disconnect the pigtail wiring, make clean connections and reconnect.

I used wire nuts and liquid electrical tape to create waterproof connections.

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If neither the automatic mode nor the manual mode work, then the most likely bad splice is the ground (if it is wiring that is the problem). Checking the wiring is a necessary first step, and you'll need to disconnect things to do it most easily. I would try connecting the pump directly to a 12V source after you remove it to remove any doubts that the pump is operational.

The pump itself may be bad. I was using an automatic Rule pump with the current-sense technology in my Montauk. In this case, it failed to shut off on several occasions. A web search returned reports of other experiencing this problem as well. Yours does not exhibit the same symptoms, but I am suspicious about the execution of the design. My next pump is going to be a manual one with a Water Witch sensor switch.

Dennis

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They have wire nuts at irrigation supply shops. They have a waterproof grease/product (I am not sure exactly what the waterproofing agent is) for connecting wires. Reusable, waterproof, small size for 14 g/12 g wire size, and the entrance side has some "legs" "flappers" that holds the "grease" and wires in place.
Garris

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I exclusively use the Rule 500 GPS "chip" (water resistance sensing shutoff) automatic bilge pump, since it is very compact and takes up the smallest amount of sump space of any pump on the market. I have good experience with this model, and some of the ones I have installed have been operating flawlessly for over 10 years. They cost about $60.

All of mine are wired using only 2 of the three wires, the brown and the black. Power flows through an on-off dash switch. I only turn it on for sensing water (and subsequent discharge) when necessary, otherwise the default position is "off".

You can see my Montauk installation here: (enlarge photo for viewing details)

http://smg.photobucket.com/user/lgolt...4127936436

When the Montauk sump cover is in place, the pump does not show. The discharge uses black smooth wall tubing (avoid that cheap plastic stuff) available from Cabela's, which is bundled in with the engine cabling, and does not show. It discharges over the transom by use of a 90 degree "L" fitting.

In the photo you can see the white 2 wire #14 cable bringing power to the pump from the console, which wraps back around the pump for extra wire length if ever needed.. The wires off the pump are deliberatly cut short, and connected, as Phil mentions, with the orange wire nuts FILLED with Life Caulk or liquid electrical tape, This makes a COMPLETELY waterproof connection that will last for years. it's not "marine kosher" but I guarantee you it works well! The unused brown/white wire can be seen with a red crimp on it. This way, if the pump ever fails, it is a quick and easy wiring replacement, completely accessible.

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I actually got my recommendation from Finnegan years ago.