Whaler Central - Boston Whaler Boat Information and Photos

Posted by action on 02/14/15 - 7:25 AM

My son made me rod holders from PVC using the drawing available on this site. He had a bunch of schedule 40 pipe around and used that. I thought it would be hard to flare but he said it was fine. He also made the writing fall in the back where the holder will mount against the console so he didn't have to worry about removing it with lacquer thinner.
Now I have to get him to make the wooden pieces. Any photos would be appreciated. I'm trying to figure out from the drawing if the 1" radius "notches" the holders rest in are angled.

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/18b6u0rg2s...ihyga?dl=0

Posted by action on 02/15/15 - 5:01 AM

He said he headed the PVC in his coal stove (?) then pushed it onto a beer bottle and ran that under cold water before removing it from the bottle. He drilled the PVC by hand in a vise and said it would have been easier with a drill press.

Posted by cas1947 on 02/15/15 - 7:36 AM

Yes, the 1" radii are angled to compensate for the angle on the front of the console.

Posted by action on 02/15/15 - 7:59 AM

By the looks of the drawing on this site, the "angle" is only 1/8" from top to bottom. Does that sound correct.
An additional angle is created by the difference in size of the teak mounting blocks.
I have not tried to locate proper sized teak yet either.

Posted by Weatherly on 02/15/15 - 8:59 AM

The blocks do not have angled radii. Rather, action is correct: it is the different sized teak mounting blocks that create the angle when mounted on the front of the console. The taller block goes on the bottom; the smaller block goes on the top.

Posted by action on 02/15/15 - 9:10 AM

For the older Montauk anyhow, I think the thicker of the 2 mounting blocks would go on the top because the console is angled toward the stern. The Specialty Marine website seems to verify this.

Posted by action on 02/15/15 - 9:13 AM

The drawing on this site also calls out 4 shorter screws. Are the center rod holders only screwed to the wood and not all the way through the center console? Screws only on the ends of the wooden blocks would be sufficient to hold them in place.

Posted by Joe Kriz on 02/15/15 - 9:41 AM

The angle has roughly 1/8 of an inch that the drawing shows. That is correct.

The originals had 4 bolts holding each rod holder assembly to the console.
You can use six if you want to through bolt the center ones also.

The drawing shows the larger block on TOP. That is correct.
Also see this in our Articles section.
http://www.whalercentral.com/articles...icle_id=33

Edited by Joe Kriz on 02/15/15 - 10:24 AM

Posted by action on 02/15/15 - 10:38 AM

#10

Thanks for the clarification Joe. I'm going to replace the 4 wooden pieces that are on my boat with ones in better shape. This way I can use the existing bolt holes.
The exact 9 1/8" distance between them top to bottom will not be an issue with the cushions, because Tena is not installing the snaps but shipping them with the cushions.
I think I'l'l fasten the rod holders to the wood with 1" stainless sheet metal screws and a washer.

Posted by action on 02/15/15 - 1:08 PM

#11

Joe...What do you recommend staining and finishing the mahogany cleats with to prolong their life?

Posted by action on 02/23/15 - 3:16 PM

#12

Has anyone tried just finishing the (newly made) mahogany cooler cleats with teak oil instead of varnishing them? Varnish seems to flake off eventually.

Posted by action on 03/02/15 - 2:46 PM

#13

I got a piece of PlasTEAK from a company in Ohio. I was thinking of using this to fabricate my CC rod holders on the Montauk. I figured it will last forever and will be pretty much covered by the Anderson cushions that are on order.

The schedule 40 rod holders came out great.