Whaler Central - Boston Whaler Boat Information and Photos

Posted by egerrity on 01/14/15 - 6:48 AM

Hello all
I have not been a fan of the top mounted BRP throttle/shifter that came with my 2012 90 HP Etec. I don't like the look and I don't like the size and especially the key location for my application. Many time I have gotten caught on the protruding key and almost snapped it off.

It is installed on my 1991 Boston Whaler 17 Montauk. So its a top mount and a piece or starboard has been incorporated to cover original holes.

In keeping with the old school look I want to replace it with a Morse MT-3 throttle/shifter. I love the look and with the correct smooth cable install I love the function of it.

The issues I am running into are the relocation of the ignition switch, dead man, and trim. I have replaced the gauge panels ( pics on my personal page) and they are pretty full.

Would love feedback on where I can mount the Ignition switch and or deadman. The Dead man used to be mounted below the shifter on the vertical part of console.

I am looking for creative suggestions for trim switch as well (does anyone make a knob with trim for the Morse?

I have been looking at pictures of other setups of boats on this site, and have gotten great ideas, but nothing concrete.

Last, what length of throttle and shifter cable is need on the Montauk 17?

Thanks

Posted by wing15601 on 01/14/15 - 8:15 AM

The dealer put my 2013 E-TEC ignition switch mounted on the instrument panel on the starboard side of the steering wheel the same place the old one was. The kill switch is incorporated into the ignition switch. It appears there is room on the port side panel under your wheel for a switch to be mounted.

Posted by Phil T on 01/14/15 - 1:32 PM

Ed -

I would install the trim on the left of the shifter on the same angle.

The ignition can go on the left panel toward the bottom.

I hate key switches on the vertical area below the shifter or on the left vertical side below the panels. I kept bumping them with my body.

Posted by Finnegan on 01/14/15 - 3:52 PM

ED

I have done the same thing you are talking about. I agree the BRP control is an oversized monstrosity (like the new G2 E-tecs I recently saw in person!)

Here is my installation on the Outrage 25:

http://smg.photobucket.com/user/lgolt...9077003865

When the MT-3 is rigged with the new Teleflex XTREME cables, it is SUPER smooth. You will be very happy with it. I have gotten used to not having the trim control in the handles, and the extra effort is worth both the look and FEEL of the Morse. I also highly recommend the larger red ringed Ongaro control knob. They have a nicer feel than the smaller red knob.

Since you already have a hole in the front of the console, under the control, I would use that location for the power trim panel switch. You can see that I also did this. Those switches need to be located vertically, so water does not readily get into them. Mine is Mercury (about $75 complete with plug harness), but I understand it can also be adapted to other engine brands. Maybe BRP also makes one?

The advice to mount the key switch in the port instrument panel is good advice, and that is what I do (see previous photo in my link). The key is under the wheel, and out of body contact. The front face of the console is a terrible place for a key!

As for the kill switch, I mount mine inside the console and never "hook up", although considering where it is located, I could if I wanted to with the console door dropped down open. Mine serves as an anti-theft mechanizism instead, hidden inside a locked console.