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Hi. Now in the process of putting the montauk I bought in May 2012 [see personal page]back together. My question is where do most people store their anchor, mine had the hanger on the bow pulpit but the shaft hits the deck. With no storage space on this boat am looking for ideas!!

Locker too small, under CC seams bad any ideas?? I thought a small bowsprit of teak would be nice but have seen NO examples. One member had great ideas on bumper storage, which I adopted, but am lost on the anchor??

All ideas appreciated!

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With my 1970 16-foot Whaler I use a small Navy style anchor (with chain and rode)which fits in the bow locker. But I'm not very satisfied with its holding power, so often I carry a small Danforth style anchor as well, stored on deck in a plastic Rubbermaid container. I am tempted to hang the Danforth style anchor from the bow rail using hardware (e.g. Windline or Schaefer) made for that purpose. My biggest concern is that it will make boarding and leaving over the bow more difficult and risky.

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I think the anchor locker on my 1984 Montauk 17 is about the same size as yours. I keep a Guardian G7 aluminum anchor, 12 feet of stainless steel chain and 200 feet of 3/8 line in there. I don't have my boat in the water yet or I would post a photo of how it fits. The previous owner had some 6X6 1/4 inch foam pads glued in there where the metal anchor parts would touch the glass. The guardian is a great anchor for sandy or muddy bottoms and has never failed me. I keep a folding grapnel anchor in my 13 because the bow locker us so small. If you do your anchoring in the Chesapeake one of those folding grapnel anchors, appropriately sized for your boat, should work fine unless you intend to anchor in bad weather. In that case, the worse the weather the larger anchor you will need. I personally believe I would never stay out in any conditions in which my Guardian wouldn't hold.

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The forward storage area on a 1974 BW16 hull is too small to store a danforth style anchor. I suggest you hang your anchor to the right siderail, midway back, with flukes pointing down using three velcro straps. I kept my anchor hanging on the siderail of my BW16 because I always had quick access to it when I needed, which was usually everytime I went out.

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If the anchor is hung on the side rail, where is the rode stored? And where, if anywhere, is the bitter end of the rode secured?

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I guess we need to discuss anchor usage when the question of anchor storage is asked by a BW16 owner. Under what conditions will you use an anchor? In sand or rocky bottom?

Cary, if you want a neat little anchor package that will fit in your forward compartment, look at the link:

http://www.amazon.com/Fortress-Comman...B0000AXNZW.

The pros: lightweight, it will never rust. The cons: you need to assemble it for use.

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Cary,
I have a 15# danforth with 8 ft of chain BUT I cut the shank off several inches and several inches off the 2 ends next to the flukes. Used a cutoff wheel and some cold galvanized paint. We fish the Charleston jetties and the anchor has not pulled even during the big flushes. I lined the anchor locker with the plastic clip together flooring and cut angles to make it a more of a custom fit. Plenty of room for fenders and ropes.

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You cannot "modify" the danforth type anchor just so it will fit in the forward storage area and expect it to set properly when you need it most.

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Why not? Three inches off of the shank is not going to change the setting and holding ability if you let out enough rope. You might lose some leverage when trying to pull up the anchor. I did, fits in storage compartment and works great!

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SCWhalerboy: The discussion is about anchor storage on a BW16 hull, not a BW17 hull. A danforth anchor will fit in your forward hatch, but not in Cary's BW16 forward storage area. You cut your stocks in addition to the shank, right? When you cut the stocks ( "several inches off the 2 ends next to the flukes") the anchor flukes will not set into the bottom when your anchor is dragging on the bottom. Try to set your "modified" danforth anchor sometime when you have surf and need the immediate holding power of an anchor. You will be up on the beach or on the rocks before you know it because the modified danforth will not work.

If you are a flatwater, inner harbor boater, then no worries, Mate.

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Mate,
Cary stated that the "shaft hits the deck" and "all ideas appreciated" I simply passed on what I did.

Unless you have done extensive testing or are an anchor engineer, your comments are your OPINION!

I have had this anchor for over 10 years and have used it from Hatteras to Key West. It has always set and held on mud, sand, rocky, and live bottom without fail, that Mate is FACT!

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Actually my experience with modified anchors and the rescue of boaters with defective safety equipment is real world. I recall specifically my participation in a USCG rescue of two youths in a small boat with a (modified) defective anchor. They went aground because the defective anchor failed to hold in heavy surf and wind. They were cited for having defective safety equipment. A thorough USCG courtesy boarding includes inspection of safety equipment. If I was still in the USCG, and doing boardings, I could cite you for defective safety equipment. Take a look at chapter 2 section one of the link: http://www.uscg.mil/d13/cfvs/acsa/ACS...apter2.pdf Your anchor will work under benign conditions; But in rigorous testing, a modified anchor with stocks removed will fail to set under dragging load when you want it to set immediately. The removal of the stocks allowed the flukes to wobble side to side, but not set.

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Wow! After reading that report, I am going to have to get my flukes Brinell tested, all the welds magnafluxed, and chain tensile tested. Then have the rope, chain, shackles, and anchor tested for chemical composition. And on top of all that, I have been told my anchor "does not work".

I am going to get a 2000# navy anchor with 1000' of 8" chain. Dern, this means I am going to have to get a bigger boat too!

Just kidding!!!!!!!!!!

Cary,
Good luck in solving your anchor storage issue!

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Just throwing in my $.02 . I deal frequently with engineers and designers. One of the loudest complaints from the public is "overbuilding/over designing". The response is that the powers that be, determine structural strengths and they are forced to design and build with calculations that fit the criteria. They have to make the numbers work. Don't you think that a Dansforth, Fortess, Seafit, etc... would love to design anchor that could fit in a tiny space and not scratch anything. Less material and outsell the competitors. A lot of work with talented people design these things. Modify for convenience, your call. Run adrift in a dangerous situation when most needed and some one gets hurt with a modified piece of safety equipment. Again your call. I installed an anchor pulpit for the very reason of anchor storage.

Garris

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On my 1987 Montauk and 1991 Outrage 17, I stowed a 11 lb. Bruce claw style anchor, 6' of large chain and 100' of rode. I had a second 100' of rode as a backup.

Anchor: http://store.hamiltonmarine.com/brows...47138.html

Keep in mind the type/style of anchor you should carry is very dependent on they type of ocean/river/lake bed you have. If you are not sure what is the appropriate type, ask fellow owners.

Many owners line the locker with a few 12"x12" squares of dri-dek in Almond.

Dri-Dek: https://www.dri-dek.com/order-dri-dek...i-dek.html


Place the rode in first followed by the chain and the anchor last. Use a throwable seat cushion to protect the lid.

Cushion: http://store.hamiltonmarine.com/brows...55958.html

I recommend deploying or retrieving the anchor from amidships to prevent going overboard or damaging the boat. I rescued a solo boater in 2005 who fell off his non-whaler boat while attempting to set his anchor from the bow. He almost lost the boat too.