Whaler Central - Boston Whaler Boat Information and Photos

Posted by YoAdrian on 03/30/14 - 6:36 PM

Making some headway this spring with my Sakonnet and needing some information on placement of the console? Does anybody know the exact distance from the transom, or from the wall behind the anchor locker in the bow?
I am putting on a new Etec 75hp, not sure if the weight of the engine dictates where the console should set fore/aft? I am planning on putting the gas tank under the console, anybody have any suggestions here? I have totally overhauled the boat, it's really starting to look good, but I want to make sure it rides as good as it looks so this is the reason for all of my questions...
I uploaded a couple pics of the boat today, as well as the console which I rebuilt and added a few inches to so that it would fit the Taco Neptune 2 leaning post that is going in it. The trailer was also completely rewired and painted with the boat last spring. Looking forward to finally getting this thing in the water!

(moderator note: please follow guideline #1 on the front page and use the full 4 digit year for everything)

Edited by Joe Kriz on 03/30/14 - 6:42 PM

Posted by Weatherly on 03/31/14 - 9:36 AM

First, I recommend you look at the 16' Wood Locating Diagram (dated 1962). The diagram is a download on this site; all of the measurements you seek are contained in the diagram.

Second, are the dimensions of your "rebuilt" console the same width as the original? If yes, then you can secure the console to the exact same location where it was originally placed on the deck. The console cleats should be secured to the deck where the wood is located.

Third, I recommend you rig your console, steering gear, and binnacle prior to rigging the Etec onto the transom. You will have a better idea what kind of space you have under the console for fuel tanks, once the rigging cables are in place.

Fourth, I recommend you look at CRBenny's personal page and read his postings for indepth information on how he installed the E-Tec on his 16 hull ("three holes up," etc.,) for the best performance.

Edited by Weatherly on 03/31/14 - 10:00 AM

Posted by YoAdrian on 03/31/14 - 4:45 PM

Yes the dimensions are the same, however I did make the console a little higher to accommodate the height of the leaning post. I have the download of the mounting strips, however it doesn't show exactly where to mount the console fore/aft. I have a pretty good idea based on pics of the original but exact location is what I was looking for. Thanks for the info on the mounting I will look into it! The motor is getting mounted by a certified tech, hopefully he gets it right! You mentioned mounting brackets for the console??? Not sure about this...I was going to make a mounting strip on top of the deck...?

Posted by Weatherly on 04/01/14 - 6:55 AM

Do not leave to chance/hope that the "certified" Evinrude Technician will know how many holes up the E-Tec should be mounted on your 16 hull. Most techs do not know how to install the lower bolts properly in the shallow splashwell.

I have seen many (too many) newly mounted outboards on BW16 hulls that were all done wrong. My advice is to get directly involved with your tech in the mounting process; even show the tech the diagram with the "Green Holes".

I do not have the exact dimensions of the console placement fore/aft measuring from interior bulkheads. Maybe another WC member can provide the exact measurements of their 16 hull with a original mahogany console.

I do recall, however, three references for the console placement: The back of the console lines up side to side with the forward side rail; the aft end of the floor cleat is two inches back from the aft end of the rigging tunnel opening; and the console facia where the steering bezel is mounted is 90 inches forward from the exterior transom dead center.

Posted by YoAdrian on 04/01/14 - 8:49 AM

Weatherly wrote:
Do not leave to chance/hope that the "certified" Evinrude Technician will know how many holes up the E-Tec should be mounted on your 16 hull. Most techs do not know how to install the lower bolts properly in the shallow splashwell.

I have seen many (too many) newly mounted outboards on BW16 hulls that were all done wrong. My advice is to get directly involved with your tech in the mounting process; even show the tech the diagram with the "Green Holes".

I do not have the exact dimensions of the console placement fore/aft measuring from interior bulkheads. Maybe another WC member can provide the exact measurements of their 16 hull with a original mahogany console.

I do recall, however, three references for the console placement: The back of the console lines up side to side with the forward side rail; the aft end of the floor cleat is two inches back from the aft end of the rigging tunnel opening; and the console facia where the steering bezel is mounted is 90 inches forward from the exterior transom dead center.

Thank you for the reference points those will help immensely with the console. Also I have forwarded all of this info over to the tech so that he can review before any mounting takes place.

Next question, does the wiring for the bow lights, or stern, run through tubes in the hull? I need to replace it and am wondering the best way to go about this?

Posted by Weatherly on 04/01/14 - 9:44 AM

The wiring for the bow light was placed inside of the coax cable placed at the seam of the top and bottom hulls during manufacture in 1963. The coax rusted and so did the wire; the wiring in your hull is probably deteriorated beyond use. So you will need to run new wiring for the bowlight. I suggest you install a new wire along the gunwale, underneath a new three part OE rubrail. (As background, your 16 hull originally had the single piece of glued on vinyl).

You should be able to find plenty of information on this website about wiring the bow light, installation of a terminal block at the port transom area, and installing wiring through the rigging tunnel to the console, with a switch for remote operation.

Posted by YoAdrian on 04/02/14 - 8:27 AM

Weatherly wrote:
The wiring for the bow light was placed inside of the coax cable placed at the seam of the top and bottom hulls during manufacture in 1963. The coax rusted and so did the wire; the wiring in your hull is probably deteriorated beyond use. So you will need to run new wiring for the bowlight. I suggest you install a new wire along the gunwale, underneath a new three part OE rubrail. (As background, your 16 hull originally had the single piece of glued on vinyl).

You should be able to find plenty of information on this website about wiring the bow light, installation of a terminal block at the port transom area, and installing wiring through the rigging tunnel to the console, with a switch for remote operation.

Thank you for this wiring information. I am having all of this info sent to the dealer so that they can be on the same page with install on all of this. I am "green" to whaler restore but am learning quickly. Any recommendation on where to purchase the OE rubrail that will work for this type of install?

Edited by YoAdrian on 04/02/14 - 8:28 AM

Posted by Weatherly on 04/02/14 - 11:20 AM

You can purchase an OE rubrail 3 piece kit all white color from Nauset Marine for $275. The same 3 piece kit with white and black color is $225. I recommend the black because it hides "dock rash" better than the all white.

Twin Cities Marine sells the same OE rubrail kits; I do not know there pricing, probably close/same as Nauset.