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Can someone tell me the correct light socket and bulb replacement for my bow light.

1. 1982
2. Originally a Montauk
3. 17 foot

I have posted a picture at the bottom of my personal page.

Thanks for the help.

Joey

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That light base and socket are from a Whaler bow light much older than 1982.

That said, I have a socket that will work.

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I have been asking for and needing the same thing. Where can I purchase the socket for the small bayonet bulb?

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Thanks...I will email you.

Joey

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For a bulb you want a G4-1/2 bulb with a BA9S base (single contact, bayonet style, 9mm diameter)

0.5 AMP which, at 12 volts is ~5 or 6 watts.

Chrome plated base is preferred for corrosion resistance, though not required.

There are also new miniature LED bulbs with BA9S bases that will work.

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Older Bulb.
http://www.whalercentral.com/photogal...hoto_id=23

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That bulb has a BA15S base and won't fit the early Boston Whaler bow lights.

The 15 in BA15S means it has a 15mm diameter.

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Nope, the #1416 is a BA9S base bulb

http://www.bulbtown.com/1416_MINIATUR...p/1416.htm

Joe - we should correct the link on that parts photo

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I also do not believe the #1416 will fit the old lights because it is a T4-1/2 bulb (tubular with 0.56" diameter) which is taller than a G4-1/2 (globe shape, 0.56" diameter)

The G4-1/2 barely makes it. I just measured two old bow lights I have here with a G4-1/2" bulb and the clearance to the top of the plastic lens is less than 1/8"

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Tom,

Not sure which bulb you are thinking is correct.

The #1416 has and does work properly as far as I remember.

What other number bulbs do you want listed?

EDIT: I see that Top Bulb has the base listed as incorrect as you do mention it is a BA9S base.
I will change the link to the Bulb Town link as you show above.
Cheaper to.

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The G4-1/2 BA9S is correct and will fit.

I don't have a T4-1/2 BA9S (#1416) here but will go get one and test fit it. I'm pretty sure it will not fit; it's too tall.

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Let us know what you find out Tom.

I know the taller one does fit as a buddy of mine had one installed on his light.
However, the shorter bulb was the one I had in my Montauk.

Below is a photo of my buddies light on his 1977 Montauk.
You can see the taller light bulb which was a #1416
It didn't seem to get hot and/or melt the green/red lens.

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I figured it out. There are more than one early bow lights from Whaler that use the mini-bayonet bulbs.

I swung by West Marine on my way home and picked up a pair of ANCOR brand #1416 (Trade Number) bulbs. These were not expensive, have a chrome plated brass base and are indeed T4-1/2 bulbs with a BA9S base. Rated 12 volt, 0.8 amp and 10.2 watts

There is no way they will fit in the two early Boston Whaler bow lights I have here.

http://home.comcast.net/~tomwclark/14...dLight.jpg

http://home.comcast.net/~tomwclark/Ol...tApart.jpg

And the reason is simple enough: a T4-1/2 is much taller than a G4-1/2 bulb:

http://home.comcast.net/~tomwclark/Gv...k/GvsT.jpg

Here is a G4-1/2 bulb inside the lens of these early bow lights:

http://home.comcast.net/~tomwclark/GB...ldLens.jpg

You can see there is not much clearance and the filament is nicely centered in the lens.

However, the light that Joe shows and that I believe Joey has, is different that the two I have here. They are taller and they accommodate the taller T4-1/2 bulbs.

Look at Joey's light base on his Personal Page:

http://www.whalercentral.com/infusion...r_id=12583

You can see that it is much deeper than the light shown in our OEM Parts Photo Gallery:

http://www.whalercentral.com/photogal...oto_id=795

I also presume the light Joe shows above is the taller/deeper version.

When this change occurred, I do not know but I suspect some time in the mid 1970s

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To answer the question about sourcing the socket itself, they can be bought from a number of sources. Remember, you are looking for a BA9S socket, preferably made of materials suitable for marine use. Here is an exemplar:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Bayonet-Lamp-...1029159901

I think I actually ordered several from this same vendor a couple years ago. This the same dimensions as the original Whaler used, HOWEVER, the tab is bent 90 degrees, so to use it you need to straighten it out flat again. The position of the mounting screw hole is perfect.

You also need a plastic insulator to slip over the socket. I have had a very hard time finding a suitable plastic bushing that will serve this purpose. It must fit over the socket but still be thin enough to fit into the casting of the light base. I tried to use apiece of 3/8" PEX I had lying around but the sidewall thickness is too great. I have just ordered some metric sized nylon flange bushings I am hoping will fit.

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I saw on another website that sells "OEM" style parts that their anchor and bow lights are LED.
Also, that they are significantly brighter and have a 50,000 hr. life.

Are the bases the same, and just refitted with LED bulbs?

I have a 1986 13 SS and are considering LED.

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Do you think all sockets came with a plastic insulator and flange? Mine did not have either one?

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The plastic insulator is very important; without it the light fixture itself becomes part of the electrical circuit.

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Super Sporter-- BIG dfference between "OEM style" and OEM

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I didn't get a chance to today but I think I know where to get something that will work as the socket insulator. If I find that they will work, I'll get a pack of them and share them with whoever needs them.

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I am well aware of the difference.

I got a navigation light from Specialty Marine and the LED is a new socket with a screw in Light bulb.
It is stainless steel so I may return it and get my old one re-chromed. Depends how original I want it and cost effectiveness.
Bulb Town has BA9S for nav. and BA15S for Anchor in LED.

Great lead. Thanks.

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Those Specialty Marine bow lights are poor imitations of the original.

Yes, I have a couple miniature LED bulbs with a BA9S base here. You have to be careful in selecting LEDs because they tend to emit light more directionally. You also have to ensure enough luminosity to meet the Federal Regulations for a navigation light.

For Side Lights (which is what we are talking about here) 1 Mile is the minimum visibility required. That translates to .09 candelas which doesn't seem like much EXCEPT that is the brightness of the light fixture, not the bulb itself. That light from the bulb has to pass through a thick plastic colored lens.

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I was wondering about that. Some LED bulbs have several small LED's on top (about $15).
Others are cylindrical with LED's on top and all around (about $50 for 2; how their sold).

Do you sell LED's that meet the requirements for side lights?

How about LED's BA15S for anchor light that also meet the requirements?

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Did not want to presume you sell parts, if not, do you have the LED bulb numbers for ones that
Bulb Town sells.
Thanks.

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No, I don't sell bulbs. I bought two of them a couple years ago as an experiment.

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Looks like that's what I'll be doing.

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Two years ago I got an original bow light chock off eBay and had it rechromed. $200. I just need a bulb socket and insulator also. I will be working on finding the size for the insulator in a few.

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I used to have all kinds of issues with my bow light until I soldered the wires directly to the bulb. No need for a socket and I can go years without messing with it.
As an added measure I put a bead of silicone inside the lenses to keep water out.

I looked into changing to LED but read it doesn't penetrate colored lenses well and the power draw isn't an issue since it is only a "running" light.

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The plastic bushings I ordered a week ago arrived yesterday...from England. Great service.

My $15 experiment seems to have paid off. The bushings fit rather well. I wish they were a little taller, however, I'll share some photos of the parts in question later.

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I had some heat shrink that was about the same diameter of the socket and I attempted to use that as an insulator however even that was too thick and the socket would not fit into the light base casting...I am pretty sure that I will need a smaller diameter socket in order for it to be insulated.

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Tom, can you share the size of the bushing? I know I promised to get some but they're harder to find than I thought. I found some nylon shoulder washers on eBay that I thought would work I just never could find the time to measure the one in my navigation light.

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Joey -- I sent you a bushing and a bulb yesterday. You can report on whether it fits or not. It may be that the distinction between the original Short Early bow light and the second generation Tall Early bow light is more than just the increased height that allows the use of a T bulb instead of a G bulb.

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Yes, you are learning what I already have. That is how I came to order some from England.

The size of what I ordered is 10mm ID x 12mm OD with a 16mm Diameter shoulder or "Hat" that is 2mm thick

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Thanks Tom.

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My one regret with these bushing is they are 12 mm ( ~15/32") long overall whereas the originals are ~ 11/16" long

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In a rather amazing bit of serendipity, a pristine 1979 Sport 13 has shown up in my driveway with its original bow light intact.

I can confirm that in 1979 the bow light used was the Tall Early bow light that is different from the Short Early bow light used from 1961 to 1975.

It uses the same lens and light socket, but it does NOT use a plastic bushing at all (which I find very odd).

The bulb is a #1416

It is unclear what the original sealing washer or gasket is supposed to be; this one had a badly deteriorated flat rubber washer under the lens that did not fit well and a rubber O-ring over the top of the lens's flange.

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Digging through the literature, I think I have a rough idea of when the four different versions of bow lights were used on small classic Whalers up to, and including, the 16'7" models

1961-1975 -- Short Early Bow Light custom made for Whaler by Perko. It is chrome over cast bronze.

1975-1983 -- Tall Early Bow Light, larger brighter bulb. Very similar in appearance, just about 1/4" taller to accommodate the larger bulb

1983-1985 -- Off-the-shelf Perko #972. This fixture is still available and is made of stamped brass, chrome plated. It uses a plastic base and a festoon bulb.

1986 - 2001 -- Redesigned chrome over cast bronze bow light using festoon bulb and meeting Federal Regulations updated in 1986. This fixture was also custom made for Whaler by Perko. It also uses the off-the-shelf replacement lens of the Perko #972

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Thanks Tom for your help on this! The socket was a perfect fit without the bushing. I think you have now figured out the tall early bow light socket was not insulated and the bulb and bushing does not fit.

Thanks!