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I had previously posted a WTB - 12 gallon fuel tank in the classified section, looking for a pair of Tempo or Mirax 12 gallon fuel tanks for my 1976 Montauk. Over the past two years I have wanted to replace my plastic Moeller 22? gallon fuel tank with a pair of the 12 gallon steel tanks. I missed a couple of different tanks, via eBay, Craigslist, etc., but happened to find a pair of Mirax tanks on eBay from someone in Iowa, Buy It Now, for $60 each including the shipping. So, $120 out the door and I had a pair of tanks hopefully ready for restoration.

Here are links to the tanks as I received them:

http://s1132.photobucket.com/user/wcw...6&o=11

and

http://s1132.photobucket.com/user/wcw...6&o=10

Feel free to see the entire photobucket of the other pictures I've taken.

My goal is to restore these tanks to original condition and as a learning experience (all I knew was a gas tank held gas) and to help out others looking to do the same thing. I had originally thought of buying new tanks from Mirax, but the idea of having something somewhat original to the period made more sense to me. Additionally, the cost of new tanks from Mirax, plus the powder-coating was holding me back (approx. $350 each).

Once the tanks arrived, the first thing I did was remove all of the components and get all of the gasoline out of the tanks as best I could. I had spoken to a powder-coating guy who said if I couldn't get rid of all of the gasoline he wouldn't touch them. I decided to rinse them out with water mixed with dishwashing soap. This seemed to get rid of the majority of the smell, discoloration, etc.. I then directed my wife's hair dryer into the tanks to help dry them out.

Naturally, I was concerned about rust on both the inside and outside of the tanks. Here are some pictures of the inside:

http://s1132.photobucket.com/user/wcw...=6&o=0

Overall, I think Tank A has more rust, some of which looks like it could flake off. Tank B, had more discoloration than rust.

Today, I contacted Brian at Mirax Fuel Products. He was very helpful in explaining how the fuel capsules worked, the fuel gauges, fuel caps, etc. I ordered replacement capsules, cork gaskets, fuel pickups, and fuel caps. Brian didn't think these tanks were specifically made for a Boston Whaler, but did think they were manufactured sometime in the early to mid 70's about the same time as my Montauk.

I ordered from Sue at Twin Cities Marine Evinrude 85 quick disconnects for my fuel lines and the OEM whaler fuel tank mats.

After receiving the replacement parts I plan to take the tanks to a local guy who will powder coat them for $60 each. If you notice, my tanks are almost orange. Brian indicated that that was probably from fading (similarly as the lens to the fuel capsules had faded, and one was broken). I asked him for a color these would have been originally, and he said that these tanks could have been any one of a number of different shades of red.

Finally, I've been in touch with Janis at MagicBrush about making me new Mirax decals to replace the ones that are about to be sandblasted.

I would appreciate anyones comments on the project. My immediate question is:

1. Is the rust inside the tanks an issue? Should I consider treating with vinegar, or acid to try and remove this rust. Should I consider having them sandblast the interior and powder-coating that as well (if possible)?

I'll update the thread when I have more information. I'm hoping by the end, I have two nice fuel tanks for an investment of about $150 each.

Wade

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Take a look at these restoration products, specifically the fuel tank sealer kit which is used to treat the inside of the tank when rust is present:

http://www.kbs-coatings.com/

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If you could have them media-blast on the outside and use a metal primer that is compatable with awlgrip or imron paint. Paint with either of those two coating. I would not powder coat them as in time corrosion will creep through the powder coating. A good body shop would be your best bet for cleaning up the rust. Be careful of inside tank coatings as the added chemicals in gas would attack such coating and may do harm to the rest of the engine gas intake lines,carbs reed valves.

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These coatings have been designed to resist both gas and diesel formulations and have been in use for a long time with no issues.

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you can try cleaning out the inside with water and nuts or BB. Toss in the water and BB and then toss the tank in your trunk or in the bed of a pickup and drive around the neighborhood. Then you will get a good look at what shape they are in. It could just be surface rust, in which case, no big deal, otherwise you can coat them with the link referenced by Dave.

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I would not use those tanks without cleaning up the inside of them. As suggested throw some nuts/bolts or chain links or whatever you have along with some wet solution of choice and go for a bumpy/curvy ride. May have to do this several times. Then I would do one final " shake " maybe by hand and just shake as hard and long as you can, occasionally turning the tanks on their sides and ends. Empty the solution and rinse. Whether you coat the inside or not may be based on what you find after a good cleaning. I agree with others I wouldn't powder coat the outside. I do like the idea of saving these metal tanks. I found two 6 gallon Chrysler Tote tanks for my 13 ' but they were immaculate on the interior I was lucky to find them. Good luck with the restoration.

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The "BB" idea is great as they don't have points to them and won't damage the galv. on the interior. The tanks are not that bad , I have seen and used MUCH worse. Roll the "BB"'s around in a soapy solution and drain/ rinse and see. If you are in and area that you winterize, drain all gas out and put about 1/2 pt. of TCW-3 oil in the tanks and slosh it around to coat the tank for winter. Fill with fresh gas at the start of the season.

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When I purchased my 1979 Montauk a few years ago, it came with a pair of original Tempo 12 gallon "aluminized steel" tanks, which did not have much use. ALthough they were in better shape than the Mirax tanks pictured, they still had some blackish dirt particles in the bottom and needed interior cleaning.

Here is the completed product, which included a body shop paint job and replacement decals.

http://smg.photobucket.com/user/lgolt...7956573641

The boat also came with a pair of Moeller red plastic 12 gallon tanks which the owner used instead of the Tempos. When asked why, he said he was continually having "trouble" with the Tempos and stopped using them. I thought that was strange, considering how simple they are in principle.

So I went to work on them, taking out the withdrawl tube and checking everything out. To clean the interior, I put in a gallon of ethanol regular, shook it around inside, and let it sit for a few days. As many have found out with belly tanks, ethanol is a solvent that really cleans out tanks, so much that problems occured with clogging, etc. So I figured ethanol would do the job on these tanks, and it did.

I rigged up a primer bulb with a length of 3/8" hose on each end to pump the fuel out. Without the screen filter the regular withdrawl fitting has, all the dirt particles come out with the fuel. I pumped the gas into a glass pickle jar, and then poured it back though a fine mesh filter into a clean bucket. With the tank tilted up on a corner, almost all gas can be sucked out. Then the clean gas went back in, shaking it up, etc, doing this the same process about four times. This leaves the tank interior totally clean.

I figured I now had the problem solved, that all the dirt was clogging up the withdrawl tube. Well I didn't. With a filled tank, after about 4 gallons were used up, the engine began starving for fuel. Other tank, the same thing. Now I know why the original owner stopped using them. I could find no problem at all. FINALLY, I figured it out. The factory had cut the withdrwl tubes TOO LONG, and when the aluminum block fitting was tightened down on the tank top, it jammed the withdrawl fitting into the tank floor. So I cut 1/16" off the tubes, and problem was solved. Now they work perfectly.

I found out the fine mesh on the withdrawl tubes works quite well in keeping dirt particles out of the fuel.
An in-line fuel filter is not needed at all. But eventually, all of these tanks will gradually accumulate some particles in the bottom too large to pass through the mesh, and once a season I use my primer bulb pump to get any dirt out of the tank bottom. It works well and keeps the tanks, and fuel, clean.
This will also happen with plastic tanks, and I suppose with belly tanks also, as you can pick up particle ridden gas anywhere.

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Finnegan, it was your tanks I had seen which really gave me the bug. They look terrific. I see how you are using the Bunge cord to keep them in place as well.

My boat currently has a large black floor mat for the 24 gallon tank. Should I leave that in place, in anticipation of the 12 gallon mats, or remove that as you have done?

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The mat you have would not be original to the boat. I would purchase a set of the 12 gallon mats for the Mirax tanks. You may find rivet holes in the boat floor where the original mats were installed.

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I got a price of $200/tank to paint, and $50/tank to powder-coat. Is one of these out of line?

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Here are the original fuel tank mats that were used in Montauk 17' models and others.

http://www.whalercentral.com/photogal...oto_id=698

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Joe, those are the mats I ordered from Sue at Twin Cities.

This morning, after reading the posts and doing some more research I decided to try adding 1 gallon of vinegar to the tanks as well as a cup of BB's. I've shaken the tanks up a few times, and currently they're riding around in the back of my truck. I'll shake and stir until Thursday, and then I plan to rinse them with water mixed with baking soda, then again with dishwashing soap and water. I'll be utilizing my wife's hair dryer on them again after that.

I'll post more pictures after the cleaning.

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TCLark has advised to not shake the tanks with the vinegar as the acid in the vinegar can get on the sides of the tank where its not needed. Therefore, I will cease shaking and just allow the vinegar to soak where the rust is located.

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WC - My tanks were done in a body shop that specializes in fire truck body repair, and the $200 estimate per tank is about right. Costly, but I think the tanks are worth it, since they represent the finest of the classic Whaler era. Here are mine still sitting at the shop:

http://smg.photobucket.com/user/lgolt...3116311734

I don't have any knowledge on the cost of powder coating, or whether it would be an acceptable finish/coating. Remember, whoever does them for you, be sure the finished coating will hold up to ethanol fuel, a highly destructive product. I would even ask for some sort of guarantee on re-coating in case you get some blistering and peel off.

The entire reason I went to professional work was failure with my own attempts at painting. I tried several brands of hardware store paint and primer, and all paint simply "melted" when E-10 fuel got spilled on the paint.

Regarding the decal work, even though your tanks are Mirax, you might consider buying these ready made Tempo decals which were duplicated, (and cleaned up graphically) from mine. As you know, all of these tanks, Mirax or Tempo, were made from Whaler's specifications, are basically the same except for different side handle designs. Nobody will know the difference, or care, and you can save all the work and expense of having them made. I like the Tempo graphics better anyway!

http://smg.photobucket.com/user/lgolt...5918668909

You can buy them directly from this website in Toronto. He is the one that created mine.

http://www.nymarine.ca/index.htmlindex.html

In case you are considering doing your own paint work, note that he also sells complete painting systems for old fuel tanks and outboards. Perhaps his products will work well. I have not tried them.
He gives a lot of valuable information on the painting process.

Regarding the fuel tank mat replacement, in order to replace mine, I had to drill out the 4 corner aluminum rivets in each mat, used by Whaler to install them at the factory. This left holes that could not be re-used for screws, so I abandoned them by installing a flat head SS screw in each, countersunk flush with the non-skid and set in clear Life Seal. It makes a nice clean, waterproof installation, and the screws will not be seen under the new mats anyway. Then I just relocated the new mat back about 1/2" and drilled new clean holes for new installations, complete with the same fender washers. Truss head screws are recommended, and at any time you can take up the mats and clean under them as needed.

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Following up on the project, I ended up leaving the tanks in vinegar until Saturday, rinsed with mild soap, then water with baking soda, then again with mild soap. The trick was getting the BBs out, finally deciding on using the ole shop-vac.

Although the vinegar had discolored, I found no discernible difference in the bottom of the tanks after the treatment.

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On another note, I received the fuel pickups from Mirax, but the replacements did not have screens at the base as the original ones did. Brian at Mirax seemed to indicate that the fuel filter should take care of any impurities.

Do most fuel pickups not have screens?

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I have never seen one that didn't.

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Me neither. Very easy to solder on a new screen to the pick-up tube.