---

After mulling this over for quite a long time I have decided to repower my 1991 Montauk 17 with a new ETEC 90hp. It was an easy decision for my to choose the ETEC, it seems to be the best fit for this boat. I have chosen a local marina that has been very attentive to all my questions and demands on how I want the engine rigged. I am going with the new ICON gauges in white. a 3.5 inch tach and 3.5 speedometer and probably a 2 inch trim gauge. They are also going to network my garmin 541S to the engine so I can display engine info on my GPS as well. I have already secured a new dash panel from twin cities which should make for a nice clean install.
I am going with the VIPER 13 7/8 x 17 Stainles prop as per Toms recommendation.
The motor will be mounted 3 holes up as per others reccommendations.
Im sure there will be many more details to go through.
They are ordering the engine and rigging kit today, I am bringing them the boat this week so they can remove the old engine and rigging. If all goes smooth it should be ready in a couple of weeks.
Cant Wait!!!
I will be taking many pictures of the process and wil do my best to post them here. As well as performance results.
Wow.... I feel like a kid at christmas!!
Thanks to whaler central for all the great info I have compiled for this project!!
Ed

---

Nice Ed! Exactly the motor I would have chosen on a Montauk! When I repowered my 15, I went with a separate tach, despite the fact that I could display then engine data on my GPS - it's just nice to have the direct-read guages in front of you. Are you able to program the ICON gauge to take the speed from the GPS rather than the motor pitot? In my experience, it's much more accurate.

Looking forward to seeing pics.

Tim

---

Ed,
don't want to totally rain on your parade but I could never get engine data to show on my Garmin 541 and I could never reliably get it to send correct SOG info to the I-Command gauges i have. I finally gave up, and purchased the GPS accessory from lowrance. There is something about the NMEA 2000 implementation by Garmin that didn't play well with the Lowrance gauges.

I was under the impression that ICON was the new throttle/shift system and not gauges, that the gauges are still I-Command? Also, ICON is only available on V6, not the V4 and inline engines.

---

Here is the link to the ICON guages

http://community.evinrude.com/t5/Perf.../ba-p/2968

more info

http://www.etecownersgroup.com/post/N...es-5553683

---

nice, they look pretty sweet.

---

Thanks I will see how the gps setup goes, they have a specialist that will be setting it up and I have an email in to Garmin to see what they say about compatibility.
Its not the end of the world if that doesnt work out.... The gauges alone should be great.

---

Garmin told me they would be compatible and I could see the Lat / Long on the gauge but when i went to display SOG it would never show, it would only show as SOW and then it would keep cutting out a lot. My GPS would see the NMEA network and it would even show the Evinrude outboard and all the gauges but I could never see things like RPM or engine info. For me the gauges were enough since I have the I-Command digital gauges as well as the fuel memory module and water pressure sensor. The only thing I was missing was the GPS to calculate fuel usage over time and it just became as easy to add the GPS receiver. That decision was made easier when you consider i could remove the Navman 3100 and fill the resulting hole in the console.
Now I wish that that I could replace my control with the new ICON controls, so i could adjust RPM's for trolling.

---

Hi Ed - I've been looking into doing the same repower on my 1984 Montauk. I'm curious what price you were able to negotiate?

I'm in Southern California and have been surprised by two things: 1. limited number of dealers. The closest is 40 miles away and there a couple others in the 75 miles range. 2. the quoted prices I've been getting seem fairly high, with the best being - $8,700 + sales tax + $600 for labor, rigging included with promo from Evinrude.

We're you able to do better?

Thanks
Mike

---

You will love that ETEC and you will brag about it to others.....very wise decision

---

Ed:

I'm in the trows of the re-power decision myself for my 82 Montauk. I too have my sights on the E-tec 90hp. From everything I've learned, it is the best choice to make.

The price quotes I've gotten are all around the $8,700 to $8,800 range. Under the promotion going on now, the rigging and 5 year warranty are included. I'm getting $800 to $1000 as a labor figure for the installation.

I've been told there are a couple of extra items.... new fuel line (its been changed to a larger diameter hose... one that isn't going to be bothered by the ethanol additive). I've also been advised to get a new gas tank(s).

Hoping to get my $$ together & pull the trigger.... soon.

Mke

---

Humm,
FYI, a more efficient engine does not need a larger fuel line.

---

thanks for the comments. I didnt even have a close second choice when seciding on a motor, and I have many dealers in my area. The boat had an Evinrude on it from the factory and I am happy to be putting it back on especially with the new technology. I paid 8100 for the motor, they gave me $550 for my engine on trade. The rigging and guages, SST prop and extended warrantee were included in rigging promotion. The labor is $1000, which is a bit high... I guess its a give and take. I feel good about the deal, and confident with the dealer. I would imagine I could have beat more money out of the deal. but at the end of the day I am comfortable.
Actually the whole thing started with an email from Evinrude presenting the promotion and asking if I wanted to be contacted by local dealers. I filled in my info and what I wanted and 4 dealers got back to me. 2 of the dealers were very detailed in there proposal, and the other 2 had no idea what they were talking about, and didnt give me the corrrect info about the promotion, one even told me the only motor that would fit on my boat was a 25 inch shaft.
The local place I went with sent me pictures of other boats they have rigged a 90 Etec on, and gave me very detailed info on the installation with plenty of suggestions. Most of the negotiations went on through email. Interesting process. I hope this info helps
Ed

---

Kamie
Thanks for the useful info. My dealer did offer the memory module, and I wasnt sure what I needed it for. Can you elaborate? As far as the gps reciever, was that as simple at adding a gps antenna to the network? Is that needed for fuel economy if the garmin doesnt work out? I dont think I care about having lat and long on my gauge, if thats the only benifit.
Thanks again

---

The memory module allows you to store fuel info and to maintain trip information, such has fuel burn. It was as easy as adding a small GPS antenna to the network. I mention Lat/Long only because that is how I know Garmin was putting the location info on the network. I will see if i can dig up photo's to send you or I can take and post new ones next week when i'm down at the boat.

---

Evinrude specifies 3/8-inch fuel hose for the 90 E-TEC. I suspect the older engine was installed with 5/16 hose.

---

The fuel line I have now is only 2 years old... if it needs to be upgraded they said its included, they are also adding a fuel filter seperator.

---

I have updated my personal page with some old pictures from when I purchased my boat up to before the motor was installed. Check them out. It was fun to refresh my memory of what it looked like.

---

Santa Clause has come.
The new Engine was a bit delayed in shipping, but was hung on the boat today. Amazing how fast the process goes after they get rolling.
Evinrude has sold so many engines with the new promotion that they now have some rigging components backordered. Namely the white Icon Tach and speedo.I will have to wait a bit longer for those. I guess we are going to see alot of new Etecs on the water this summer. I caught a glimpse of the price at the gas dock....GULP.... $5.05/gal for 89.... yeashhhhh

---

Ed,

I'm in the process of repowering my 16SL with a 90hp E-Tec also. In fact, it is at the shop now and on the schedule for next week.

My story is very similar to yours, as it all started with filling out the request for quote on the web site. Two of the 4 dealers that responded really didn't have a clue but the other two were fantastic to work with. One of the "good" dealers had a 2010 model they wanted to move and they gave me a price I couldn't refuse. Called the factory and was told the only major difference between the 2012 and the 2010 models is the oil tank & cap.

Never was really happy with the original 1993 90hp Merc. Ran great at high speeds but never could get it to idle properly and it smoked like a chimney. Always was secretly hoping it would die, so I could get a new motor. Actually stopped using the boat as much as I first did because of the old motor (sad but true). Really looking forward to the new E-Tec!!!

I also plan on posting the new pictures and performance data after I get the boat back and on the water.

My thanks to everyone also. I think the dealer was impressed with all the little things I learned from this web site and asked about.

Jon B.

---

Thanks for the feedback Jon.... I'll be posting the pictures of progress this week. The we engine looks really great.. Makes boat look shabby... Time for a ton of compound and wax....

---

I put a new pic on my personal page of the engine mounted and not complete yet.. Looking good.
NO, its not on the highest mouting hole.... the technician refused to mount it that high. It seems really high right now. I wasnt going to sour my relationship with the installer at that point... He had alot of work to still do. Im sure is going to perform just fine. Dash pics to come

---

There is no reason for the installer to refuse your instructions as long as it complies with BPR's guidelines.

I would have a quiet word with the Service Manager (the boss) and explain that it is in his best interest, not to piss off a customer spending $9,000. I would point out to them that if you decide to raise the motor later, they will be doing it for free.

Some dealers are just pathetic at customer service.

---

Its really not the end of the world.... I am very happy with the job they are doing.
If I feel so inclined I can raise the motor. ..
We will see how it runs....

---

The technician is an idiot. He should have done what you asked.

Yes, the boat will perform fine as is. It will perform better with the motor raised. But you will never realize the difference unless you raise the motor and it will never be easier to raise the motor than right now before it leaves their shop.

---

Everyone slow down here..... Idiot is a strong word. I did not push the issue.
Exactly how much of a difference am I going to see Tom?
Was it worth pissing the guy off??? I think u guys can all see the fine line we have to skate when it comes to this stuff. Especially when he has hours of other things to finish on my boat.
Im not going to loose sleep over it..
Any positive feedback from anyone?

---

I am sure you will be happy with your new engine! I see the others point here also, but bottom line, unless your racing or something, (note that Tom's avitar has a boat jumping what apparently is at least another boat or 2, shades of Evil Kneival there:) ), you will be just fine, I bet, at the dealer's setting on the engine height. You gotta remember, that guy that is installing that engine for you installs probobly at least 100 or so of 'em a year, if he was incompetent, my money is on that he would already be out of business!

Recently on this board, I noticed that these same two guys instructed another small boat owner here to continue raising his engine and buying new props to the point that the poor guy was out of money and had his engine so high that there was no way he was ever going to get a prop that would stay in the water when he made even a slight turn! Fine if your racing in straight line, but completely impractical for the rest of us. I guess these guys have unlimited bank accounts and want to beat every boat on the water to the dock at dusk...I dunno:)

I bet that for you, if your like me, that Whaler of yours will be perfectly satisfactory for a nice pleasurable day on the lake or the bay, and if you see these speed freaks while your out, just wave at 'em when they pass you! One thing about it, they'll prolly already be out of your way at the dock by the time we get there anyway:)

---

Thanks Silent
Nice boat u have there!
I realize that everyone is trying to help and has alot of knowledge with all this stuff.
I appreciate all the advise and help. Thats what makes this site so great.

---

You know, that guy installing your engine has to install it per Evinrude specs for the warranty also. Evinrude pays a LOT of people BIG bucks to set those specs for the engines fuel economy and reduced wear and tear on the parts. If there is ever a problem with the engine during the warranty period, the dealer will have to honor the warranty. If you go and start moving the engine around and re-prop it, you WILL have trouble getting the repairs under warranty. I gurantee this!

Just another thought...

Happy Whalerin' ! :)

---

I can assure you Tom is spot on with his advice and is not out to make race boats out of our Whalers....

The gentleman who was instructed to raise his motor in a prior thread, does not always divulge the information when he makes a comment....which leads us to guess, ask questions and make a "guesstimate" of what is needed to have his boat perform to the best of it's capabilities.

Raising the engine until the cavitation plate is about an inch or so above the bottom of the transom is sound advice.

---

Silentpardner,
I have to step in here and correct your misinterpretation before these rumors get out of hand.
The main topic of that thread was too much water spray coming from the cavitation plate on the motor.
Nothing more, nothing less...
http://www.whalercentral.com/forum/vi...rowstart=0

Water spray coming from the cavitation plate means the motor is mounted too low...
No where did anyone suggest keep buying props... They suggested trying different props due to his prop blowing out. Many places have loaner props to try out before purchasing... This is always recommended.
However, if a member asks what is the best prop to purchase, then that information can be passed on from prior experience concerning that same hull and motor combination.

At this time, his water spray seems to be corrected but the prop he has is blowing out.
He still has choices...
1. Lower the motor one hole
2. TRY a different prop

Please keep to the facts and stop spreading misinformation.

---

egerrity,

The motor installed looks great.
Out of curiosity, what bolt hole on the motor was used for the final mounting?

---

Thank you Joe
The top bolt has one more hole above it. The engine is in the 3rd hole. It seems very high to me. The cav plate is more than an inch above the bottom ... more like 2 in.
If I had pushed him to put it up to the highest setting I would have been paying to lower it.

---

Sheesh...I rest my case

---

egerrity,
OK... So it is mounted in the 3rd hole and you can only go up one more hole.....
Looking forward to hear how this works out so let us know.

Silentpardner,
What case? Suitcase, Briefcase?
The way I see it you have no case at all. Just giving misinformation.
I will ask you again to stop spreading misinformation and keep to the facts.

Everyone,
Here is a factual case of a motor being mounted too low on a friend of mines Outrage 17' I....
The two seats in the quarter stern cannot be used as the spray from the motor being mounted too low completely soaks the people sitting there.
This obviously is not acceptable to him or his passengers.
His motor is mounted all the way down and, due to his model, we are going to raise it 2 holes up to begin with.

If you are getting too much spray from your cavitation plate, then raising the motor will not only reduce or eliminate the spray, but will also give you a little better performance from having less drag in the water.
Sometimes it is a little trial and error, and sometimes it may require a different prop but not always...

---

Ed,
More important than what hole the engine is in, is where does the cavitation plate site when the boat is up on plane. Do you plan to take the boat for a shakedown cruse with the dealer? If you don't I would talk to the installer and make sure that they will work with you to correctly setup the engine, including raising or lowering it on the transom if required. BRP does recommend in their install manuals that the cavitation plate be 1 1/2 to 2 inches above the keel. A lot depends on the prop you plan to use, some can run higher in the water column and some want to be lower.
Once the install is completed, raising or lowering the engine should take the dealer a couple minutes, not hours to do.

Do you have any photos showing the stern with the engine in the down position?

---

This is totally not true, you will never have any issues getting warranty work done on the engine if you move it's height or change props from the one the dealer gives you. Evinrude does do a lot of testing, and believe me, they adjust the engine height and reprop to get the best performance depending on the test. They won't use the same prop for a flat out speed test that they do to pull 15 water skiers out in formation, it just doesn't make any sense.
If we follow your twisted logic Silentpartner then I could never get warranty work done on my Evinrude because it's on a jackplate where i can move the height and do, and because I run Mercury not BRP props?

---

I will be taking a demo ride with the installer. I will make sure I make a note of the RPS and speed.... ect ect..
I do not have a pic from the rear yet...
I was there when the engine was mounted and he did measure the hights with a straight edge from the keel... Liike to be about 1.5 to 2 inches up...
More importantily I want to make sure it wont blow out when making turns.
Who is kidding who, I will be more interested in the gauges, I wont even have the head to ask about how to flush the engine. lol

---

egerrity,

Which engine controls did he use?
The new "Buck Rodgers" style?
http://www.whalercentral.com/articles...icle_id=56
(see last photo)

Binnacle with key or without key?
Or something other?

---

JOE
They used the Binnacle mount with the key.... like the one in your last pic... I wish BRP would redesign that shifer... its not so nice looking and it seems like they can cut some fat off it.
Im sure I will get used to it.
Ed

---

Excellent....

That would be my choice too.
Looks like this from arthureld's personal page.
http://www.whalercentral.com/images/p...onsole.jpg

http://www.whalercentral.com/infusion...er_id=3564

---

Yes, but mine has a thin piece of black starboard under it to cover old holes... the binnacle overhangs about 1/4 in on top and bottom.
Ill be putting more pics of same on my PPage.
Joe how do I get a project page?

---

When your project is all completed, send us the text part first so we can review it.

Once approved, we will then ask for the photos to be inserted into the text part of your project album.

Keep using your personal page until then...
You can upload 30 photos to your personal page as that is the limit in that section.

---

Sounds good Joe.

---

Silentpardner wrote:



I am very curious:

Who are "these same two guys" you refer to?

Who is the "other small boat owner"...?

---

Ed wrote:



Ed -- I find that question rather odd. Why are you worried about pissing the technician off? It's your motor and your money. He should be concerned about pissing you off!

If I am spending $9,000 for a new outboard motor, you sure as heck will find me trying to get the most out of it. And why not? Why on earth should the technician object the motor being mounted exactly where you ask it to be mounted? It is exactly the same effort on his part regardless of what set of bolt holes are used.

---

Silentpardner wrote:



Would you please cite the "specs" that prohibit an Evinrude E-TEC 90 being mounted three holes up on the transom of a classic 16'-7" Whaler? Wait, let me answer that for you: You can not because there is no such prohibition. It is utter nonsense to suggest that there is.

Re-propping the motor voids the warranty? What on earth are you talking about? It is critically important that you DO re-prop the motor if the WOT engine speed does not fall within the manufacturer's specifications. How did point this even enter the discussion? We are talking about setting the bets motor mounting height of an Evinrude E-TEC 90 on a classic Montauk.

Since when does adjusting the motor mounting height void the warranty?

---

Ed wrote:



Ok, so the motor is now "two holes up" using the third set of holes. The A/V plate is NOT 2 inches above the bottom of the hull. It ought to be and if you move it to the last set of holes it might be.

I am sure the boat will perform fine with the motor mounted where it is. But it will perform marginally better if it is raised that last 3/4".

You know, Evinrude provides those different bolt holes for a reason: So you can adjust the mounting height of the motor. That's the whole point of there being so many of them. With the motor being mounted where it is it will perform well enough so you may not be inclined to try it all the way up. The ONLY way to know if the highest mounting height is TOO HIGH is if you try it and see. Then you can lower it. But with the motor NOT all the way up, there is no way to tell if the highest mounting height is better unless you rely upon the experience of those who have already been through all of this before. And there have been many.

If the highest mounting height were too high, how on Earth have guys gotten away with bolting their Evinrude E-TEC 90s on the transoms of their classic 16'-7" Whalers? How is it that Len Simpson runs his new Evinrude E-TEC 90 on his Montauk with it at its highest mounting height without any trouble at all?

Can anybody cite even just one case of an Evinrude E-TEC 90 being mounted all the way up on the transom of a Montauk and the owner being dissatisfied and then lowering it back down to the third set of bolt holes? Come on, just one thread where we discuss that?

Anybody?

Bueller?

---

Tom
Points all well taken...
Can you estimate the difference in the speed I will get by raising the motor 3/4? That may be my deciding factor if I will tell them to move it up.
PS.... I was very hesitant to even post a picture of the motor because I knew it was "wrong".....

---

Ed -- There is nothing "wrong" with having your motor where it is, it's just not optimal. I estimate you are going to give up about 1 MPH.

I belabor this point not because I feel it is critical for you to move your motor up; its already bolted on now, nor to berate Silentpardner for the bad information he has provided. I am belaboring this point because of all the other people reading this now, or in the future, who are researching the best way to install their new E-TEC 90 on their classic Whaler and I want them to get the correct information about what is possible and dispel as many myths as I can.

The whole point of Whaler Central is for us to share what we have learned about our boats and motors and help one another out.

One of the things I have learned in recent years, and I was slow to come to this realization, is that mounting a modern outboard motor on a Classic Whaler should NOT be done the same way that it was done 25 or 30 years ago. I've owned three Montauks with total of four outboard motors on them (not counting the kickers). All of these motors were mounted all the way down or only one hole up. All of them provided a lot of fun and performed very well with the propellers they had.

But that was long ago (except the last one) and propellers and motors have come a long way. Many of the very best outboard mechanics and dealers are guys who have sold and serviced outboards for decades; they have a lot of experience...but that is also part of the problem. They are used to doing things the way they always have. I cannot tell you how many times I have heard about dealers/mechanics insisting an outboard motor cannot be mounted high on the transom of a classic Boston Whaler. It is just ingrained on them to mount outboards like they did in 1985 and it DOES NOT NEED TO BE SO.

If you bolt an Evinrude E-TEC 90 all the way UP on the transom of a classic Montauk and trim the motor so the AV plate is parallel to the keel and measure up from a straightedge projected back from the keel, you will find the AV plate 2 to 2-1/4 inches above it. For anybody who thinks that is too high, how do you explain all the guys happily using jackplates on their Montauks where the AV plate is 3 or 4 inches up?

Of course, motor height and propeller selection go hand in hand. If you want to run an aluminum propeller designed in 1985 on you brand new E-TEC 90, you may indeed find that mounting it all the way up is too high.

---

Tom
Thanks for the info.

---

Ed -- You're welcome.

I was just perusing BRP's Evinrude E-TEC Installation and Predelivery Manual, the installtion instructions for a new E-TEC. On the subject of motor mounting height, this is the bottom line (page 48):

"Test outboard and boat performance at different heights until the best performance is achieved."

So much for the silly "moving-your-outboard-up-and-down-voids-the-warranty" argument.

---

Tom
I hope to be test running the boat soon. What speed and rpm do you think it should run. With the viper prop u recommended etc etc...
I am most interested in cruise speed at about 3500 rpm.
Thanks

---

At 3500 RPM you should be doing 30 MPH.

Top speed will be about 42 MPH.

---

Tom
This will give me a a couple of good points of reference.

what rpm should I hit at top end?

Thanks again for all the great info.

---

The optimal WOT engine speed range for the E-TEC 90 is 5000-5200 RPM. That is where I expect you to be.

---

Ok.....drum roll please! I went for the first test run yesterday. 50 degrees, low tide, 12 gallons of fuel, 2 heathy size men, one weighing 250 and the other probably closer to 300. Boat came up on plane with no problem, quickly we reached about 29mph at 3400rpm... From there we punched it down to the floor and I was amazed at the midrange power this engine has! Wow.. And how quiet it is at running speed....we both crouched down behind the console to become as aerodynamic as prosible... I closed my eyes and said a prayer to the whaler gods.... When I opened my eyes I saw the new gauges glistening in the late afternoon sun, wow, great thing I choose the Icon gauges in white...

Rpms maxed out at about 5100 at 41 mph... Trimmed out.....
I think I could have pushed the trim alittle higher.... A lot to get used to. Everything is very different. The shifting is very smooth and quiet even with the set prop...there's no sound as all. That is going to take some getting used to. No smoke.... Slight vibration when cold started, that smoothed right out. Also weird not to have to use a choke and throttle up when cold starting. Just turn the key and done.
Obviously I will have more info as I run it more.

Thanks to all.. More pictures to come...

---

Yep. Exactly what I predicted. Congratulations; you are going to enjoy that motor once you get used to it!

---

I have to chuckle reading this thread. Both Tom and Joe have given me great advice on my engine, and Tom was spot on recommending a prop. But more than that, what I've noticed is that their comments aren't anecdotal. They both use real-time data to measure, quantify, analyze, deduce, and conclude. When they've disagree they've provided reference information, actual (and at times test condition) results, and background information to back up their opinion.

Now, I don't believe everybody is correct 100% of the time. And I believe that everyone is entitled to their opinion. But I think if you want to disagree with these two, and several other esteemed gentlemen on the forum, that you really need to back up your position with a little more than "war story" and "know this guy" claims.

Case in point:







Coincidence? Not really.

Egerrity, good luck with the new engine, it already looks like you made a great choice. And congratulations on doing your homework, having an informed install, and maximizing your dollar value in terms of performance. Looks like you nailed it.

Me? I couldn't pull the trigger and will be battling my 2-smoke SPL for another season, lol...

---

Thanks Bo Neato.

If Ed had tested the boat by himself without the extra 300 pounds, I am sure he would have hit 42 MPH and been cruising at 30 or more.

In fact, if Ed wanted top speed, he would raise that motor to the last set of bolt holes and swap out the Viper for a Stiletto Advantage. His top speed would probably rise to about 44 MPH.

Now I understand that the Viper came with the motor package and that Ed is not too worried about every last MPH. I mention it for anybody reading this who is contemplating or planning to install a new Evinrude E-TEC 90 on their classic 16'-7" Whaler.

---

Congrats, sounds like she is right on the money. The engine will loosen up once the break-in period is finished. I hope you had it set to xd100 oil, if not once you finish the break-in, you should have the dealer reset it.
The only thing i can say is make sure you run her hard above 4000 RPM's for 30 minutes or more, especially if you do a lot of cruising, your engine will be happier.

---

Hello All
I hope everyone is having a great summer.
I wanted to update this thread after just turned 50 hours on my Etec.
The motor has been great! I do still have the vibration issue at idle and I have a programming issue with the trim guage, all in all it has been really great.
The boat has unreal power from 3000 rpm up to WOT. It still amazes me when I punch it. I usually run it around 3200 rpm and cruise about 24 knots. It seems like the sweet spot is closer to 4000 rpm where the engine seems to smooth out and really hum along. At 4000 rpm I think I run about 30-32 knots.
The gas ant oil consumption have been very good, especially the oil. I have not nailed down what my GPH are but it sure is much better than the older motor.
A couple of things that I dont love:
1) in order to check or fill the oil the engine cowl has to be removed. I am concidering putting a sender on on it so the level shows up on my ICON GAUGE. The cowl is ok to remove, putting back takes a bit of lining up to get locked in.
2) I dont like the style or looks of the shifter and the location of the key and kill switch. BRP has to streamline this unit and make it a bit smaller and change the key position so it does not stick out so far.

3) The programming and use of the ICON guages is a bit confusing and cumbersome. As a matter of fact the TACH buttons have become tough to push and dont work so well.
Did I need the ICON PRO?? probably not. The TACH will have to be replaced when I finally get time to get the boat back to the dealer to fix the other 2 issues.

Am I blown away by the sounds and quiteness of this engine? NO. But I wasnt interested in a 4 stroke that would have been quieter.

I did spend some time refastening some rails and fittings during the summer which has quieted down the vibrations. All that is needs is a idle adjustment.


OK, I can be very picky.. But I just love to get on the boat and turn the key and have the confidence of a new motor. We have used the boat quite a bit considering its our second boat. I guess it has taken time away from the Sea ray.
It really is amazing to see all the ETECS on the water this year. It seems like BRP has had a great sales year.

September and October are great months in the NE.... get out there and run those boats.

Ed

---

Love my etecs as well. Considering the electronic controls...next year maybe. Still don't use the full functions of the gauges, but love the miles per gallon readout. It lets me be as cheap as possible.

---

Hi ben here I am not real slick on my computre I posted 1991 17 munatuk repower 2012 Etec 90 a day or two ago if I had found this I would not have botherd you guys are very pashionit on this subject I like that so had to wade in. With another 17 m that I had years ago it seem's to me that the washers on the lower bolts in the engine well had been cut to let them lay flat maby they were just over size don't know but it made me wonder is it possable that all the hole's over the years were not put at the same hight from the bottem of the hull? I like the starate edge on the hull and 2" up from there or 2" and a bit. Also when speeking of top end I think bottem paint mite take off a knot on my boat with no paint and a 22 year old 90hp yamaha on a good day no wind to speek of with just a very lite chop whitch I find better than glass and I should say my plate is 3/4" up from hull bottem my top end is 44mph with 3 gps all at the same time .That being said now we need to talk about air what temp. humity altitude Just kidding . I was hopeing to do at least as good or better with the Etec I will know soon have a great day and keep up the good work there must be more bases to cover. And on the mullet smoke em if you got em boy's. ben out