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I'm sure the topic has already been addressed somewhere on this site, but I can't find it. Two problems with my forward rope locker. First, the through hull drain inevitably leaves several inches of water in the compartment keeping line and contents soaked. Has anyone installed a lower drain tube into the boat like they had on earlier hulls? Second, there is no hardware to belay the bitter end of the anchor line. There is an off-color disc in the bottom of the compartment and I'm wondering if that where some type of eye is supposed to be affixed. The only other item I want to mention is the forward opening of the hatch...bad design for deploying and retrieving anchor line. I just built a new hatch using a combination of teak and ipe (pronounced "eepay") woods to replace the composite stock hatch. I made the whole unit then cut it in half so I will have two sideways opening compartment doors, double hinged on each side, which should work great. I initially took measurements from a friend's Montuak but realized that not all hatch doors are the same size. While the early models were rectangular, later models are sort of triangular. In the early '80's the hatch measured 16 1/2 inches forward edge and 29 aft. On my '89 it measures 21 1/4 x 34 respectively. Both measure 24" in length (fwd/aft).

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Ralph I am not sure about your hatch, but I just used a regular drain plug in my through hull up there. I was tired of my anchor line getting wet as well!

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The previous owner of my Montauk used aluminum diamond plate for the hatch and cut a notch in the hatch so you could tie the bitter end of the anchor line to the inside bow eye. I keep my anchor line in a 2 gallon bucket inside the hatch on recommendation from Chuck Tribolet and that works well.
I leave the drain plug out of the front anchor locker at all times. Nothing seems to get wet and stay wet anymore. I put rubber bumpers under the aluminum hatch edge and it raises it flush to the deck while creating a path for moisture vapor to escape. I only keep a couple of rubber penguins and my anchor and chain and the 100 ft of rope in the bucket. It has worked out better than expected. When I first did this I put the plug in and filled the compartment with rain water and that sucked but since not using the plug at all has worked well. I have the original hatch cover and its solid wood not laminated plywood.
Steve

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Terry, I'm thinking of drilling a 1/2" hole from inside the anchor locker's lowest point through the little bulkhead and lining it with copper or bronze tubing. That should let the water spill out o the deck. I would then just close off the thru-hull drain. I was just wondering if anyone has done that yet...Ralph

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Definitely doable, but I subscribe to the less holes the better theory. Especially since there is alrady one to let it drain. I put a piece of dridek up there for my anchor to rest on. I remove the plug when it rains for obvious reasons. It can be a pain because I usally forget to put i back in when it goes to the lake, but to me that is safer than drilling another entry point for water to access the foam. I kind of like that bucket idea, it sounds much cleaner than throwing the rope on top of the anchor. Mine is all under the hatch when I am done with it and it works fine. I do need to install some rubber bumpers cause the hatch likes to slam up and down with the waves! Either way it is up to you, I just like less holes.

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Why would you ever use a plug in the forward locker of any size whaler? My 13 drains completely but looks like the 16/17 I am now rebuilding will allow for some standing water??

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What about using PVC for the thru hull to drain into the deck area of the boat? It'll expand and contract more like the fiberglass (than a metal tube), will not corrode or tarnish and can, also, be epoxied in place.

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Very simple for me Blake. Without the plug, water comes in and out getting the anchor rope and chain dirty. I just like my stuff to stay as clean and dry as possible. The only water I want on my chainis when it goes in the water. I usually let it get pretty dry before it goes into the locker to prevent as much corrosion as possible. Plus the rope just gets nasty when it keeps getting soaked and sits in a dark compartment. Is it needed? No cause it is a drain, just personal preferance.

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Terry, I didn't realize water actually enters the forward locker from the thru-hull drain. If that's the case, I'm definitely gonna seal that opening permanently and figure a way to drill through the wall of the anchor locker and install a tube (probably PVC like Zap recommended) allowing locker water to drain into the boat. My auto-bilge in the tunnel can handle it. It's not like fish or bait is stored in the locker, the water that accumulates there is just spray, rain or washdown type...it's clean. I don't have my boat here right now, it just had a new lower unit installed at the dealer. If memory serves me correctly, there is no bow eye that protrudes into the locker...I have nothing to which the bitter end of the anchor line can be attached. There is an off colored disc in the bottom of the locker, and I was wondering if that's where an eye is to be attached. I'll know more when I pick up the boat Monday. Ralph

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Ralph - the colored "disc"in the bow locker is the sprue hole. During manufacturing, they inject the foam and use this hole. After the foam has fully expanded, the excess that escapes from this hole is trimmed. The exposed foam is sealed. Every whaler has a sprue hole.

For the record, the OEM bow locker was made from teak boards with cleats. See the parts photo album (left sidebar) There was no cutout for attaching the anchor line of the eye on the bow. Outrage models with fiberglass hatches did have a molded recess in the deck.

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Phil...I knew that...because of the aging process, I forgot that I knew it :o). Seriously, thanks for the expertise, I'll figure out a way to attach a tie down for the anchor line while I'm figuring how to drain the locker into the boat...Ralph

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1989 Montauks had a fiberglass bow locker.
I believe some 1988 models also started having the fiberglass bow locker.
See this list of members Montauks for part changes:
http://www.whalercentral.com/articles...icle_id=17

The bow locker drain should have a plug in it so it doesn't fill with water when the boat is not underway.
If you get water in the locker, you can pull the plug when underway and the bow locker will drain. Then put the plug back in before slowing down.

I wouldn't drill any hole or add any thru tubes if it were me.
Of course that would be left up to you.

The end of the anchor line should go to the bow nut/eye on the outside of the locker just below the Norman Pin. Do Not use the Norman Pin however.
Here is what the head and eye look like.
http://www.whalercentral.com/photogal...hoto_id=25

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Joe, thanks for the reference links...it looks like they went from the teak locker hatch to the composite between '88 and '89. I'd rather have the bitter end of anchor line attached inside the locker so I wont have it protruding out to the lift eye all the time...I'm sure I'll figure a way to mount a piece of appropriate hardware...it should never have much tension on it, just a safety thing in case the line ever slips while anchored (don't want to lose 300' plus anchor and chain). I'll give the proposed drain tube some more thought...I too hate adding holes, but the constant water in the compartment is a pain. I'll make a little project album if I go ahead with the mods. Thanks and best wishes for the Holiday Season...Ralph