Before Posting, Please Read Our Posting Guidelines Below.
1. Use the full 4 digit year for everything you are asking your question about. Example: 1962, 1988, 2000, 2011 2. Include the correct name of your Whaler model. Example: Montauk 17, Montauk 170, Outrage 26, Outrage 260 3. Include the length when necessary. Example: 16, 17, 18, 20, 22 4. Do not post your email address anywhere on this site as it is already in your user profile.
Be extra certain there is added reinforced backing in the floor where the legs will land. The backing location diagram is not available on their website.
Make sure to attach to console as well.
Consult with Boston Whaler Customer Service. They do respond to emails when sent from their support page.
As you know, under the fiberglass deck skin is foam and no stringers or other support. In locations needing added strength, backing material is added to the fiberglass layer. Typically these areas include around the console, Seat, rail bases etc.
I went back to the Resources section on Boston Whaler's website to review the parts drawings.
Typically in models with an under-deck fuel tank, the cover requires added reinforcement for a T-Top.
With the 2012 Dauntless 170, the tank cavity is narrow. The console attaches to the cover and a potential T-top legs would fall outside of the cover where there is no backing.
If one could not be content with a decent bimini, and needed a t-top there are two suggestions to add reinforcement.
Rather than have a leg with 3 or 4 screws, fabricate a narrow 3" plate and weld the legs to it.. Fasten the strip to the floor with screws every 2-3 inches to spread the load. Attach legs to console with backing plates inside.
At the screw holes, one can use the "hockey puck" method. Each screw hole is slightly over sized. The short end of an allen wrench is inserted in a drill and the long end is put in the hull to loosen the foam under the deck. Remove the foam bits with a vacuum. In each hole squirt either epoxy or Gorilla Glue (expanding epoxy glue). Once the epoxy has cured, retap the holes for screws.
I would check with T-Top fabricators/installers down under and see what they think of these suggestions.
Interesting design on that link. Before buying the top you may want to consider the added loading to the console itself and particularly to the mounting screws. Loading can be considerable when operating at some speed and the loads imposed by the boat bouncing fore and aft and side to side in iffy weather.
If you decide on the top I recommend you use robust and large backing plates at the attachment points and consider reinforcing the console mounting arrangement with extra mounting bolts through strong backing. You don't want that top coming loose and causing a lot of damage or hurting someone.
Good luck with the project and please report back on the outcome.
