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1984 Revenge 22 controls length
dave3825us	#1  Posted on 01/23/18 - 11:43 AM
Member Posts: 19 Comments: 1 Joined: 11/24/17	I have a 22' Revenge and need control cables. Does anyone know about how many feet the control cables should be on a 22' Revenge? It has a tunnel and a cut out for a binnacle style shifter on top of the dash. Thanks
gchuba	#2  Posted on 01/24/18 - 8:11 AM
Member Posts: 1675 Comments: 0 Joined: 03/31/13	I have a 1979 22' Revenge. If you are needing new control cables you might want to keep them out of the rigging tunnel. I bypassed the rigging tunnel by drilling a large hole on the starboard side in the cupboard (underneath the dash) and ran them underneath the starboard gunnel. I wanted to keep them out of water that always gets into the tunnel. I removed the flush mount rod holders for a little more space. No biggie for me because I covered the hole/void with my downrigger mounts. I probably could have squeezed just the control cables without the removal but I ran a bunch of other rigging and wire along the same area.
dave3825us	#3  Posted on 01/24/18 - 2:41 PM
Member Posts: 19 Comments: 1 Joined: 11/24/17	Thank you for the reply. I am not at my boat right now so I can't look at it, but here is a pic of a revenge from the web. http://i64.tinypic.com/30kc84g.jpg Where exactly is this cupboard? From what I remember on mine, its I think fiberglass under the dash. But I could be wrong. It would not be the first time. Lol. I will be there tomorrow and get a better look and a pic if I need to. Just trying to picture where exactly you drilled the hole. Thank you..
gchuba	#4  Posted on 01/24/18 - 4:02 PM
Member Posts: 1675 Comments: 0 Joined: 03/31/13	Cupboard was probably the worst word I could have used to describe the area. On my 1979 I used a 4" hole saw drill under the dashboard on the starboard side of the molding. My little teak cabinet under the dashboard is completely intact. My cabinet is now removable. I cannot pull up the picture you posted. I will take another look at mine and get a better layout. It has been a while since I ran the rigging through there. The nicest detail is that the steering cables (I since changed to hydraulic steering) swept down from the gunnel instead up up from the rigging tunnel. I was able to get rid of that big loop as it came out of the tunnel and then continued to the motor. I got sold the cables and do not have a measurement for you.
dave3825us	#5  Posted on 01/24/18 - 4:18 PM
Member Posts: 19 Comments: 1 Joined: 11/24/17	Not sure what's up with the pic but this link should take you to the pic. So your saying to the right of the door under the steering wheel and under the ignition key? http://oi64.tinypic.com/30kc84g.jpg0kc84g.jpg Edited by dave3825us on 01/24/18 - 4:22 PM
gchuba	#6  Posted on 01/24/18 - 7:03 PM
Member Posts: 1675 Comments: 0 Joined: 03/31/13	I was able to pull up the picture........let me go to my boat and check out the routing. The rigging ultimately goes in there but the access is inside the cuddy underneath the dash panel.
gchuba	#7  Posted on 01/25/18 - 12:43 PM
Member Posts: 1675 Comments: 0 Joined: 03/31/13	I checked out the boat. First, I removed the cabinet under the dash board. It was self contained and came out intact. I did have to remove the steering wheel to get the clearance. Once out, I had space to work. I used a 6" diameter hole saw bit (not the 4" I mentioned but a 4" may work......the larger the access hole the easier to manipulate the sweeps). The top of my access cut is level with the bottom of storage shelf directly next to the pilots seat. The bottom of that shelf is where I ran my rigging. Hidden and protected. I then "dog legged" the rigging up a bit and connected directly underneath the teak gunnels. Like I said earlier....the flush mount rod holders leave a tight fit. I removed the holders but, then again, I ran my main motor harness and kicker motor harness and other wires in the same area. All the rigging then sweeps down from the gunnels with a cleaner look. Like I said, I used a 6" hole saw bit for drilling (I am pretty well set up with those). I was pretty cautious. The material I drilled through looks to be about 5/8" marine plywood veneered with gel coat. I had a little over 3" of clearance behind that panel before I would have damaged the sides of the hull. With the cabinet out I had space. I would imagine that the same could be accomplished with a jig saw with an extremely short blade. Drill 4 corner holes and get to work. The area remains completely dry and is completely hidden. Looks do not matter. If you leave me a cell phone number I can take pictures with my wife's cell phone and get them to you. I use a flip phone and am picture challenged. My email is in my profile.