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Drain tubes replacement
Randy Zink
#1 Print Post
Posted on 12/01/17 - 5:42 PM
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Well it is time to get them done and now the question is should I tackle it myself or pay the shop. I have read the article regarding the replacement of tubes and it varies from what the shop service manager stated how they do them. Now this is the local BW dealer and they replace tubes with no oring and use Sikaflex under flares and inside. Now their cost is an hour labor per tube and tubes cost is reasonable. So my questions are should I replace them myself and if so which way, as they stated they have been replacing them their way for over 10 years without any issues.
Thanks in advance great site which I will be using a lot.
I just purchased a 1984 18 outrage

 
beautex
#2 Print Post
Posted on 12/01/17 - 5:49 PM
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You can get the tool and parts and do it yourself (McMaster Carr) or, if you never want to worry about them again, you can epoxy in some carbon fiber tubes. I have done it both ways. Sometimes, the hardest part is getting the old ones out. Oh, if you decide to do it yourself, anneal and roll one end at a time.


Edited by beautex on 12/01/17 - 5:52 PM
 
Walt Krafft
#3 Print Post
Posted on 12/01/17 - 5:53 PM
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If you decide to tackle it yourself, I have a set of tools including the tool to go in your impact hammer for you to use. Just cover the postage both ways. I used the o-rings and sealant when I did mine. It is really not hard to do. It is very hard to see if they are needing replacement without replacing them. Just because the dealer says they have had no issues doesn't mean much imo.

 
gchuba
#4 Print Post
Posted on 12/01/17 - 7:45 PM
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My drain tubes (1979 22' Revenge) looked good with a quick visual but they were allowing water entry (moisture measuring tool by a boat surveyor). Once removed they were failing from the inside out. The foam side was failing but they looked good. I installed the new ones with the tubing and o rings from McMaster Carr with a generous amount of Boat Life/Life Seal. I delicately ground the outer flange and tapped out the tube using an extra small piece of the replacement tube as a driver. Do buy extra tubing, you burn some up with mistakes. I tried collapsing the first one for removal but it distorted the tube and I was "sweating out" damage to the gel coat. Once you remove the tube you will be surprised just how thin the gel coat really is. I would not use sikaflex because of its adhesive properties. Stick with sealants and the o ring. I would contact Boston Whaler directly......I do not believe they would recommend sikaflex. You try to replace or work on them in the future and you would run into problems.

 
Vances Revenge
#5 Print Post
Posted on 12/02/17 - 11:24 PM
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The owner before me replaced the drain tubes in my 1980 22 Revenge with PVC. I wasn't at all impressed the job they did so I originally bought both sizes of tubes and O rings to go back to original. Then I thought it over and do not like the idea of brass deteriorating over time and have to be replaced again....Even If I'm old dead and gone when the time comes.

I made fiberglass tubes with these: http://www.fibreglast.com/product/Braided_Fiberglass_Biaxial_Sleeve_2610/Braided_Sleeves

and West Systems epoxy. I slid the fiberglass tube over electrical conduit that has the correct ID measurements for the form. Then epoxied them into place with Marine Tex Epoxy. The best way to make these would be to use a fishing rod rack or BBQ rotisserie to slowly spin the tube until the epoxy sets up. I did 3 coats of glass and the tubes were incredibly strong.

To make the area even stronger, after the tubes were in, I drilled holes around my tubes on the topside. Then filled an extra large syringe with a plastic tube extending the syringe with slightly thickened West System Epoxy. I then ran the tip down to the top of the bottom of the hull next to the tube lifting and filling the gap around the tube with epoxy.

The West Systems reacted with the foam and made an incredibly solid fit. I have to admit, when I did the very front locker tube it was pretty hot outside and the additional heat caused by the reacting epoxy and foam got so hot it scared me.

It all cooled off and everything is incredibly strong.

The job overall was very easy but it would be easier and less time consuming if I didn't have to make the fiberglass tubes. I couldn't find any. If someone finds a source of them, I wouldn't even think of going through the hassle of flaring the brass tubes.

I'm going to repeat this process again between the top of the floor/deck into the motor well. I'm going to install three 1 1/4" tubes through the lip of the motor well and have ball scuppers inside the motor well so water doesn't come in backwards. Water will drain off of the deck through the tubes, into the motorwell, then drain out ball scuppers I'm adding to the transom.
This is necessary because I'm extending the motorwell from the little factory 3" lip on the deck up to the full height of the sides. I figure three of these tubes should be sufficient drainage.


Edited by Vances Revenge on 12/02/17 - 11:33 PM
 
Randy Zink
#6 Print Post
Posted on 12/03/17 - 10:36 AM
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Thanks again for all the advice and tool offers. The PVC idea is very interesting as I work with it on my job. I think people like the original look of brass but PVC may be the better mouse trap.

 
Vances Revenge
#7 Print Post
Posted on 12/03/17 - 11:22 AM
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Hi Randy,

The problem I couldn't find an answer to utilizing PVC is sealing it. I couldn't find a sealer that sticks to PVC well enough to feel like it will not leak over time. That is why I used fiberglass instead of PVC.

Vance

 
gchuba
#8 Print Post
Posted on 12/03/17 - 1:53 PM
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I use PVC pipe for water service and sleeves for various underground utilities. Correct installation requires a highly volatile primer to break/chaff the outer surface. You then apply solvent (usually misnamed glue) to attach the pieces. The pieces are melted together......not glued. Vance is right on the money with his observation about finding a compatible sealant. Without the nasty purple primer sometimes the pipe rejects the solvent. I would stick with factory install or use boat making materials like Vance did.

 
Joe Kriz
#9 Print Post
Posted on 12/03/17 - 2:05 PM
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See our article section on Brass Drain Tube replacement.
http://www.whalercentral.com/articles...icle_id=42
http://www.whalercentral.com/photogal...hoto_id=54

PVC tubes
http://www.whalercentral.com/articles...icle_id=94


Joe Kriz -
1977 Montauk 17'
 
gchuba
#10 Print Post
Posted on 12/03/17 - 10:28 PM
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Joe,
I looked up the pvc article. Looks like 5200 is the recommended sealant/adhesive. Pretty permanent stuff. By the pictures I do not see how you can use the plastic tubes with the 1984 Outrage. On my 1979 22' Revenge, all the through hull tubes have different angles on the flange. I am pleased with the brass tubing for my replacement. With care after, annealing the brass tubes ends, I was extremely pleased with my results with the steep angles. Would the Plastic tubes.....to work/waterproof correctly......have to have a pretty flat 90 degree surface to have them seat properly???? Some of my angles are pretty steep and using a filler to compensate would have them stick out pretty far.

 
Joe Kriz
#11 Print Post
Posted on 12/04/17 - 4:07 PM
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gchuba,
Some folks asked about the PVC and other asked about the Brass.
Just some other ideas for different boats.

Randy, your BW dealer is just a dealer and not a Factory installation.
I'm sure there are many other dealers across the world that use different approaches to installing drain tubes that they prefer.
As long as it works and doesn't leak.


Joe Kriz -
1977 Montauk 17'
 
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