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Bilge Pump Problems
Whaler29464	#1  Posted on 08/28/17 - 7:22 AM
Member Posts: 2 Comments: 0 Joined: 08/28/17	I have a 1997 17' Montauk and when I put a bilge pump in it lasts about a month and then quits working. I keep the boat in the water and have been having a recurring problem over the past two years. What kind of bilge pump should I be using? The one with the float switch from West Marine doesn't seem to work.
gchuba	#2  Posted on 08/29/17 - 6:41 AM
Member Posts: 1675 Comments: 0 Joined: 03/31/13	A little more info would be helpful. Location and installation of pump, float switch, and discharge hose. With a float switch I assume you leave the pump on while at the slip and you not there. If you do not have a backflow valve (a small rubber piece that fits by the discharge hose attachment on the pump) the water in the hose after pumping flows back into the bilge area. Just enough water to keep the pump recycling itself and get nowhere. It will cook the pump. You might be able to "air gap" the hose but the valve is an easier fix. Too light a gauge service wires might also be a culprit.
Whaler29464	#3  Posted on 08/29/17 - 7:16 AM
Member Posts: 2 Comments: 0 Joined: 08/28/17	Thanks for the information. The pump is in the sump on the boat. I'll try the backflow preventer.
Phil T	#4  Posted on 08/29/17 - 7:17 AM
Administrator Personal Page Personal Album Project Albums Posts: 6985 Comments: 6 Joined: 03/26/05	In addition to G above: All bilge pumps require the wiring to be spliced. If these connections are not made waterproof, they will corrode. Pump no work. Remove the pump and wire it to the battery directly. If it works, it's the wiring. If not, its the pump. On installing new or reinstalling the existing you can use heat shrink butt connectors like this: https://shop.hamiltonmarine.com/produ...42938.html or wire nuts dipped in liquid electrical tape like this: https://shop.hamiltonmarine.com/produ...30888.html You need to use marine tinned (12 or 14 gauge) wire to a switch with a 5 amp fuse. Edited by Phil T on 08/29/17 - 12:03 PM 1992 Outrage 17 I 2019 E-TEC 90, Viper 17 2+ 2018 Load Rite Elite 18280096VT
gchuba	#5  Posted on 08/29/17 - 7:37 AM
Member Posts: 1675 Comments: 0 Joined: 03/31/13	Just like Phil described......all my splices are heat shrink tinned butt connectors. However.....I know some fellows like using the twist lock wire nuts with waterproofing. I have a background in low voltage irrigation and lighting. Irrigation suppliers have the wire nuts with waterproofing material pre installed. The nuts also have a "serrated plastic baffle" (I have no idea how to describe it) that allows the wires in and holds the waterproofing material in place. Pretty slick. I prefer the heat shrink hard wiring to prevent separation while getting jostled around.
Joe Kriz	#6  Posted on 08/29/17 - 4:31 PM
Site Owner Personal Page Personal Album Photo Albums Project Albums Posts: 11430 Comments: 452 Joined: 03/18/05	Whaler29464 wrote: What kind of bilge pump should I be using? What brand and type do you have now? Many of us have had good luck with the Rule 750 with built-in Float Switch. http://www.xylemflowcontrol.com/marin...le-750.htm I had the Rule 550 on most of my Whalers but now they have the 750 which is the same physical size. Fits in most sumps nicely without having to screw it down.