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Putting new rub rail on TIPS?
mason canner
#1 Print Post
Posted on 07/14/17 - 11:51 AM
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Hi everyone Im putting new rub rail on my 1975 Sport 13, i was wondering if there was any tips to make it easy and smooth. - Thanks

 
rockinhitz34
#2 Print Post
Posted on 07/14/17 - 12:14 PM
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I just did mine a few months back, should be easier on a warm day. Im assuming this is a three piece rubrail with the flexible rubber L-shaped liner, rigid vinyl frame, and rubber insert?

Start at the bow with the middle of the rubber and vinyl frame. Going to need at least two people and a hair dryer or heat gun. Drill your pilot holes use your adhesive/sealant of choice (3M 4200 or silicone) and use your fasteners (screws or pop rivets) to attach the rubber L and frame. Use the heat to help with the bends around the bow.

Once you are securely fastened around the turn, drill two holes at the stern in the hard vinyl frame piece and use a ratchet strap to pull the fram piece tight along the gunnel. Get it tight and line everything up, this will allow you to drill pilot holes every six inches or so, insert your adhesive, and fasten all along the gunnel without having to hold the frame as you go. Makes it super easy.

Let your adhesive cure, use something to cut the vinyl flush with the gunnel at the stern (I used a hacksaw, not pretty but it gets the job done).

Stick your rubber insert in the sun for a bit to heat it and soften it up a bit, or let it sit in a hot car trunk. If you are running bow light wires through your rub rail get that all set. You can cut a small piece of the rubber insert and make sure it passes over all your rivets/screws. Start wherever you like and push the buttom edge into the vinyl frame and use your fingers or a wooden dowel (I used a wooden spoon and my fingers) to push the top of the insert under the top part of the frame.

Its frustrating as hell, but take your time and you will get the hang of it. The vinyl frame is the worst part. Dont get it too hot or put too much pressure on it or you will end up warping it slightly. I did that in one spot (used my knee to hold it in place)

Good luck!


1969 13' "Super Sport", 1985 50hp Merc
 
pederj
#3 Print Post
Posted on 07/14/17 - 2:04 PM
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In addition to the above, use soapy water to allow the rub rail to slide easier into the slots. You will be an expert by the time your are done.

Good luck!

 
MarkTemplar
#4 Print Post
Posted on 07/14/17 - 2:32 PM
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It's a miserable job when you get to the bow. Two-person job. Heat gun. A hair dryer works very well. CLAMPS!!!!! At least three. If you can, get some C-vicegrip claps. The rim on the bow features rounded surfaces that allow "regular" clamps to slip. Otherwise, the previous bloggers give good advice.

The topside paint on the gunnels will need touch up post-rub rail instalatiion.

It will take you 3-4 hours, but it's a one-time-good-deal. If you have wife/girlfriend help you, use "sensitivity" or you'll hear threats of mutilation to your genitals.

Good luck!

 
wlagarde
#5 Print Post
Posted on 07/15/17 - 12:24 PM
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http://www.whalercentral.com/userphot...lbum_id=66


1976 Sport 15 w/ 2005 50hp Nissan 2 stroke
 
Paul A
#6 Print Post
Posted on 07/16/17 - 5:32 AM
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Great idea to run a new bow light wire (if it fits). I just discovered my old wire has failed somewhere and was looking into battery LED bow rail lights.

 
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