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Continental CV720 Price Research
bmw90w
#1 Print Post
Posted on 02/24/17 - 6:08 PM
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Hey guys just wanted to update pricing info I have been getting. I found a couple dealers that were at 1695 msrp. For stainless upgrade and Stolz rollers, add 300 more before tax! I found a place called advantage trailer that is selling the same trailer for 1165 plus upgrades and tax. Much better deal for those interested. Im gonna pick it up in the next few weeks or so. I took Finnegans advice and am gonna have the bunks be 2x4x5. Out the door with stainless hardware, stolz rollers, led lights, etc is around $1585. I am gonna skip the torsion axle I think. Only bad part is they aren't able to set up the boat, but they said it comes from the factory pretty close to perfect in terms of setup for my boat. If not I figure I can adjust it pretty easily. I haven't used my boat in over 4 years, so I am very excited to get it going again. ( I hit a rock and tore up the motor)

The dealer said a lot of guys use the cv720 but also the dealer recommended the c717 as she said the v cross member was not needed. Only a difference of $70 so I am inclined to go with tried and true cv720. Any thoughts?


1984 Montauk
 
Phil T
#2 Print Post
Posted on 02/25/17 - 6:20 AM
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Terry -

I think it looks good.

I agree on the model #. The Montauk has a relatively flat hull compared to other models.

You can do the setup yourself at a ramp or with a friend. Take a look at Finnegan's photos for reference:

http://smg.photobucket.com/user/lgolt...6.jpg.html
http://smg.photobucket.com/user/lgolt...9.jpg.html

Are you driving down to pick it up?

I found the listing:

http://www.advantagetrailercompany.co...b|nTb.html


Edited by Phil T on 02/25/17 - 6:39 AM
1992 Outrage 17, 1992 Evinrude 115
 
bmw90w
#3 Print Post
Posted on 02/25/17 - 4:30 PM
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Yes I have to go get it. I'll do the boat swap up here as I am not familiar with the area down there. Should I upgrade to 14 inch tires?


1984 Montauk
 
Phil T
#4 Print Post
Posted on 02/27/17 - 7:28 AM
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Terry - Are you going to trailer local or take long trips? If long tows, I would go with wider tires. Smoother ride I think.


1992 Outrage 17, 1992 Evinrude 115
 
bmw90w
#5 Print Post
Posted on 02/27/17 - 1:42 PM
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My local lake is about 20 miles away. I do take it to Michigan once a year though, so I need it to be as stable as possible. Coming from 5.30x 12 inch tires, anything will be an upgrade!


1984 Montauk
 
bmw90w
#6 Print Post
Posted on 05/12/17 - 5:40 PM
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Just want to plug Advantage Trailers in St Pete for being a great place to buy this trailer. I opted for all the upgrades and even got the swing tongue. Great trailer! Drove it 500 miles back home and the tires still have the knobbiest! It is so much nicer to pull this than my old trailer with 12 inch tires!


1984 Montauk
 
Flounder
#7 Print Post
Posted on 05/13/17 - 12:29 AM
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Wow, really great pricing on these trailers. Can't get anywhere close to the price of Advantage. One if these days I may make a vaca trip and tow one home.

Bmw90w, post pics of your new trailer please since the pic from Advantage is so bad.

 
bmw90w
#8 Print Post
Posted on 05/13/17 - 7:14 PM
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Ill try to get some Sunday. Talk to Megan. She was very nice and handled all my requests fast and friendly. Definitely worth the trip. I was expecting terrible service, but I was pleasantly surprised.


1984 Montauk
 
bmw90w
#9 Print Post
Posted on 05/15/17 - 9:13 PM
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Im waiting for the photos to be approved on my page. Ill let you know when the are ready to look at. It is sweet, but now I have to adjust the rollers and bunks.


1984 Montauk
 
Finnegan
#10 Print Post
Posted on 05/16/17 - 8:47 AM
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You may have to buy longer 10" or 12" bunk brackets. Order them from Champion Trailer, as they have the ones with a continuous slot.

I also recommend all stainless bolts, even for the lights. Pacific Trailer in CA has the stainless bunk U-bolts, which are VERY hard to find in general.

 
Joe Kriz
#11 Print Post
Posted on 05/16/17 - 3:10 PM
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bmw90w wrote:
Im waiting for the photos to be approved on my page. Ill let you know when the are ready to look at. It is sweet, but now I have to adjust the rollers and bunks.

The photos do not need approving once your page has been approved.
However, we do monitor new photos.
I have added the photos to your page for you which is all you really needed to do after you uploaded them.
Looks good.
You can edit your page anytime you feel a need or want to add something else.


Joe Kriz -
1977 Montauk 17'
 
Phil T
#12 Print Post
Posted on 05/16/17 - 4:01 PM
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Larry, et al.

I found, through a recommendation, a good vendor on the East Coast for stainless hardware as well as parts.

I got my Stolz rollers, stainless shafts & bolts from them. They also carry stainless U bolts too.

http://www.sturdybuiltonline.comonline.com


Edited by Phil T on 05/16/17 - 4:01 PM
1992 Outrage 17, 1992 Evinrude 115
 
Finnegan
#13 Print Post
Posted on 05/16/17 - 8:08 PM
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Phil - thanks for the referral, but i noticed their SS roller shafts are not drilled at each end for SS cotter pins. Pal nuts do not work on a SS shaft (and they rust).

EasternMarine.com is another good source for trailer parts.

 
bmw90w
#14 Print Post
Posted on 05/17/17 - 4:21 AM
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Thanks Joe! Also thanks Phil, I will check it out. Stainless U bolts are the only thing I couldn't get in stainless on this trailer.

Finnegan how much did you need to adjust the rollers and bunks to fit your trailer? They weren't even close for mine. I need to move the bunks over a good inch or so, and then drop the rollers a little bit. Otherwise the bunks won't be high enough to reach the boat. Im surprised there is that much adjusting needed! Sweet trailer though!


1984 Montauk
 
Phil T
#15 Print Post
Posted on 05/17/17 - 4:43 AM
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Dont' feel bad, I spent an hour fiddling with the boat while on the sling at the dealer (lower, check around, raise, adjust, repeat) and still found a problem when I came home.


1992 Outrage 17, 1992 Evinrude 115
 
Finnegan
#16 Print Post
Posted on 05/17/17 - 9:19 AM
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I think I set the stern (4th) roller as low as possible, so the bolt is at the very top of the slot, keeping it from dropping. The next two forward may be the same.. The front roller has to be higher, since the hull is curving up at that point. Since the keel is straight, I stretch a sting over the stern and 2nd roller to make sure the rollers are set straight. For the front one, with boat on the trailer, I set it up to the hull. Then roll the boat back a foot or so, and set it up an additional 1/8" so that it picks up some load.

If the front of the boat is too close to the frame as it wraps around, raise the 2nd roller a little, adjust the third one using a string, etc.

As to the bunks, as I said I think the 8" brackets provided were not long enough, so I bought four longer ones. You can see it here:

http://smg.photobucket.com/user/lgolt...6.jpg.html

Install a set of eye bolts into the pre-drilled holes on the back cross member for the transom straps. McGard lug nuts look nice on the wheels, incidentally. And be sure to have the tires balanced.

First set the keel rollers properly, with the bunks loose, letting the boat wobble side to side. That way you get all the weight on the rollers. Then adjust one bunk up against the hull where the boat will be level on the trailer. Strap down that side against the bunk. then snug the other bunk up against the hull. With bolts almost tight, using a hammer knock the brackets all the way up tight against the hull, then tighten. This takes up slack from the carpet. After a month or so, as the carpet settles in, you may have to tap the bunks up a little more.

You won't believe how easy it is to launch and retrieve the boat with this set up. When launching, it rolls so easily off the trailer that I have to first let the boat roll back two feet or so with the winch, then take a few turns around the winch stand with the bow line, and then unhook the winch strap. Someone on the dock holds the end of the bow line, which should be 3/8" x 25'.

On retrieving, the only hazard you face with any keel roller trailer is to make sure the keel is always over a roller (which is why the 12' wide rollers are used). Otherwise the keel can hit the cross frame, or roller brackets, and chip out gelcoat. Always back the trailer in so that winch stand is just at the water line, so you don't have to get your feet wet to wind it up. Many times this will bury the back roller, which is good, and the boat just floats over the back frame and first hits the 3rd roller. Hook it up and wind it up! Never try to drive the boat onto the trailer like these bass boat guys do, because if you miss the center roller, you will have hull damage.

I think you will be very happy with the Continental. This trailer fits a Montauk hull particularly well, almost like it was designed specifically for the boat. And they hold up well if taken care of. The Continental keel roller under my 25 Outrage is 28 years old, with no rust. All bolts are stainless, of course.


Edited by Finnegan on 05/17/17 - 9:21 AM
 
bmw90w
#17 Print Post
Posted on 05/17/17 - 8:07 PM
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You answered my question then. I was thinking the brackets for the bunks weren't long enough, but I wasn't sure. I was going to lower the rollers to try to let the bunks reach the boat, but I think I am going to buy other brackets instead. The rollers aren't that high, so I am pretty sure that is the problem, I will check again. Thanks for your advice!

Phil how are you enjoying your new trailer?

Now all I have to do is get off my butt, open up my wallet, and get my motor fixed. I hit a rock 4 years ago and it has been in my garage doing nothing since. Hence that is why I bought a new trailer to get me excited about using it. Also my son is now 2 1/2 and he will enjoy it now. The last few years would have been pointless as I don't think he would have enjoyed it much. Besides money and sleep were at a premium then!


1984 Montauk
 
Flounder
#18 Print Post
Posted on 05/17/17 - 11:04 PM
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Bmw90w, I can't find the pictures of your new trailer, is it in your personal pages? Didn't see it there either.

As for your motor, if you hit a rock then I guess there would have been damage to the lower unit. That's not a bad repair, worse case is you'll need another lower unit.

 
bmw90w
#19 Print Post
Posted on 05/25/17 - 8:27 PM
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The trailer pics are on my personal page.

Not sure about the motor yet. I still need to take it in. I need to replace bilge pump, steering cable, among other stuff first!


1984 Montauk
 
Flounder
#20 Print Post
Posted on 05/26/17 - 7:43 PM
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bmw90w wrote:
The trailer pics are on my personal page.

Not sure about the motor yet. I still need to take it in. I need to replace bilge pump, steering cable, among other stuff first!


I still don't see your new trailer pics on your personal page.

 
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