1. Use the full 4 digit year for everything you are asking your question about. Example: 1962, 1988, 2000, 2011
2. Include the correct name of your Whaler model. Example: Montauk 17, Montauk 170, Outrage 26, Outrage 260
3. Include the length when necessary. Example: 16, 17, 18, 20, 22
4. Do not post your email address anywhere on this site as it is already in your user profile.

scuppers
salmonboy	#1  Posted on 11/29/16 - 4:37 PM
Member Posts: 49 Comments: 0 Joined: 01/23/12	I have a 1986 Outrage, Anyone install overboard draining scuppers on this model? I'm thinking about the same scuppers used on the 20' model. The 18' would have them located closer to the waterline than the 20 but I think it still has plenty of space. Comments?
jgortva	#2  Posted on 11/30/16 - 6:03 AM
Member Personal Page Posts: 227 Comments: 1 Joined: 11/12/09	Hello Salmonboy, I believe how you use the boat will have a lot to do with your decision. Scuppers can be important if you moor the boat in the water unattended for extended periods when rain water might kill a bilge pump or battery. My experience with Whalers are not of the Outrage but a smaller classic 13 foot sport and now a 15 foot dauntless models that I leave in the water docked for 5 months in the summer. My first 13 foot sport had no scuppers but did have the molded in bilge, "pit" in the rear of the boat where I installed a automatic bilge pump with integrated float switch which worked excellent when washing down the boat, keeping the boat free of rainwater, or even when getting partially swamped by some bigger rollers on Lake Michigan. As long as you use the boat at least every couple of weeks there will be no battery drainage issues from mooring the boat with this setup. I now have a 15 foot Dauntless without the bilge, "pit", but with scuppers. I have not had the scuppers self bail my boat any faster than the bilge pump, and when stepping in the rear of the boat they backflow a little bit, just enough to make a wet deck which then makes the water get dragged all over the boat in the form of dirty footprints no matter how clean your shoes are. I am not a clean freak but it is annoying as the deck is always wet and usually so is my gear. They were also a issue when I recently re powered as it doesn't take too much additional weight to put them at or below the water line. I have started to plug the scuppers with scupper plugs I found at Bass Pro Shops which are made for kayaks. In case anybody is having the same problems. they make 3 sizes that are color coded and I found the yellow ones fit perfectly. I understand that this renders them useless, but I have found that if the waves are big enough to necessitate the need for constant self bailing, I probably will not be out on the water to begin with or can quickly remove them. Another issue might be how easy it is to install them in a classic Whaler. I have not removed mine, but I would believe there is some kind of backing or support for the factory installed ones that would keep the transom from collapsing in when you tighten the outer and inner halves of the scuppers during install. Jim G.
DennisVollrath	#3  Posted on 11/30/16 - 9:56 AM
Member Personal Page Posts: 298 Comments: 0 Joined: 08/29/10	Salmonboy, I assume you are considering putting scuppers on some/all of the through holes that lead to the splashwell. What is your intent? Are you trying to keep the splashwell dry? Thanks for the clarification. Dennis 1985 Outrage 18 with Suzuki DF140A
Phil T	#4  Posted on 11/30/16 - 12:49 PM
Administrator Personal Page Personal Album Project Albums Posts: 6985 Comments: 6 Joined: 03/26/05	While there is a through hull draining down to the keel, there is no deck drain to the splashwell. Many members install a bilge pump and run a discharge hose to the aft quarter and through the gunnel. One could run the hose to the splashwell instead, saving cutting the gunnel. If you are getting large amounts of water on the deck from the stern, a pump will not evacuate the water quickly if that is your desire. Fabricating a splashwall would be effective. Several members have done this as a DIY, making them out of several boards that are attached at the gunnel and are removable,
salmonboy	#5  Posted on 11/30/16 - 4:08 PM
Member Posts: 49 Comments: 0 Joined: 01/23/12	Hi Guys, Nope, I'm thinking of installing scuppers through the sides. I believe the 20' model did this but not sure. One scupper would be placed in the starboard aft corner just above the sump cover. Of course the second scupper would be placed in the port aft corner, leading directly overboard, not into the splash well. This is to allow water to drain directly overboard from the deck and not to have to pump it out of the bilge. The stock sump cover would be replaced with something a little more substantial. Perhaps a cover that would make the deck drain slow enough so the scupper would allow most of the water to go overboard? Make sense? Then I can pump the sump out occasionally during the day rather than constantly while I am flushing the deck.
DennisVollrath	#6  Posted on 11/30/16 - 4:31 PM
Member Personal Page Posts: 298 Comments: 0 Joined: 08/29/10	Hi Salmonboy, Thanks for the explanation. I'm trying to relate this to my Outrage 18, which seems like a pretty dry ride. Are you getting water over the sides while underway? Is it rain water that is creating problems? I have a 1000GPM pump in the bilge for occasional water. I've sealed the deck pretty well, but some water still does manage to make its way into the bilge. I'd be concerned with a solution that did not have a pump, as water would back up into the fuel tank cavity when the level rose 2/3 of the way or so. I keep mine in the water much of the time, and the combination of a bilge pump and a Mills mooring cover keeps it dry. If you are getting significant water on the deck while underway, seems like you would still need to drain the bilge (entry points rigging tunnel entrance & exit, side hose gutters), which it seems like deck-level scuppers would not address. Dennis 1985 Outrage 18 with Suzuki DF140A
Phil T	#7  Posted on 12/01/16 - 9:51 AM
Administrator Personal Page Personal Album Project Albums Posts: 6985 Comments: 6 Joined: 03/26/05	Marc - It is widely recommended holes be cut in the hull of a Boston Whaler only as a last resort due to the structural foam. We would appreciate knowing what the conditions (boat and sea) that are leading to the wet deck. Is it a serious problem? Edited by Phil T on 12/01/16 - 9:52 AM
salmonboy	#8  Posted on 12/01/16 - 10:24 AM
Member Posts: 49 Comments: 0 Joined: 01/23/12	Phil, Its not a serious problem at all. I use my boat mostly for fishing and in the course get lots of scales, blood and the such on deck. I then flush the deck with salt water often to keep from stepping on and spreading the mess. Are you suggesting a Ø1 5/8 hole in the side wall near the location of the BW decal would compromise the structure of an 18? The link below is to view Hoosier Gal's (20') photos. The first photo shows a scupper just below the Whaler decal. My Dad's 20' had those also. Its great to help get water off deck and not having to use just a pump. http://www.whalercentral.com/infusion...r_id=34418 Edited by Phil T on 12/01/16 - 10:50 AM
Phil T	#9  Posted on 12/01/16 - 11:06 AM
Administrator Personal Page Personal Album Project Albums Posts: 6985 Comments: 6 Joined: 03/26/05	Marc - Thanks for the additional information, I clearly see why you would want some relief from the wash water. To understand my thinking, when you said scupper I was thinking a 2 or 3" hole at the deck level. You are correct, the mid to late 1990 Outrage's have deck drains in the gunnels. See 1st and 3rd photo here: http://www.whalercentral.com/infusion...ser_id=176 Cutting any hole will not impact the hull integrity, rather it just increases the chances of water intrusion. If the hole was fiberglassed, it would reduce the risk.
JRP	#10  Posted on 12/01/16 - 2:44 PM
Member Posts: 755 Comments: 2 Joined: 08/29/14	Phil T wrote:...If the hole was fiberglassed, it would reduce the risk. I like this suggestion. And, if by fiberglassing, the plastic fitting could be eliminated, then crud like fish scales etc would pass out through the scuppers with less chance of getting caught up on the lip.
Joe Kriz	#11  Posted on 12/01/16 - 3:17 PM
Site Owner Personal Page Personal Album Photo Albums Project Albums Posts: 11429 Comments: 452 Joined: 03/18/05	For clarification, Hoosiers Gals Outrage 20' does not have scuppers. That is a thru-hull fitting for the bilge pump on the starboard side only. Later years this fitting moved towards the center. http://www.whalercentral.com/infusion...user_id=27 Outrage 22's have the same bilge pump fitting near the center of the starboard side instead of the rear. See my prior Outrage 22' below http://users.sisqtel.net/jkriz/Outrag...age22.html There are no scuppers on any Classic hulls that I know of. As far as I am aware, the scuppers started on the AcuTrack hulls as Phil shows in his link.
salmonboy	#12  Posted on 12/01/16 - 7:05 PM
Member Posts: 49 Comments: 0 Joined: 01/23/12	Phil, yes, that's the photo I was looking for. In fact the scupper for that model was the Perko model 0343DP. That is what I want to use, simple nesting type connection of both ends. It surprises me that the scupper is so close to the waterline. I would have guessed it to be slightly higher? If I remember right my Dads boat had scuppers 4-6" above the waterline. But then again that was many years ago. Joe, Thanks. I guess my Dad had his scuppers installed? I thought they were stock because they were on the boat when I went with him to pick it up from Shock. His Outrage 20' was a mid 1980's? I now know why I couldn't find any photos of that!