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1989 22 outrage with whaler drive
PurrSeaStance
#21 Print Post
Posted on 01/27/16 - 10:03 PM
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Gorgeous, outstanding redesign and fabrication! Nice work!


Wishin I was fishin!
 
wjd
#22 Print Post
Posted on 02/02/16 - 4:26 PM
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Hi Scubadog
One thing that worked well for me was to use a pressure washer. Lots of talk on the forums about cutting the foam with a hand saw but I chose to do it a bit differently. I used a zero degree tip on a pressure washer and it cut through the foam like it wasn't there. Best part is it won't damage the gel coat. I will warn you that it's a messy business but I had the tank cut out in well under an hour. Clean up was probably more than that...
Good Luck

 
SD Whaler
#23 Print Post
Posted on 02/23/16 - 8:43 PM
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WJD, I made some mods after seeing yours done.... I cut holes directly
to run wires (as you did), I will also cut holes from both sides so water can drain into centre. I will put a bilge pump there. I will also add a bilge pump in the bottom of the enclosed transom.
I will create a photo bucket album to show you the before, during and after.... She looks good, if I do say so myself....
I added a stainless T top, electronics, lights etc...... I'm doing wiring now, but should have pics up by this weekend.....

 
SD Whaler
#24 Print Post
Posted on 02/23/16 - 9:00 PM
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WJD, as I made holes to run wires through back wall, I enclosed the spaces on back wall. I also will be replacing the corner covers (where wires ran up.... which brings me to my question: what did you do as far as drains or screens so the water from deck to go down?

 
SD Whaler
#25 Print Post
Posted on 03/01/16 - 12:01 AM
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WJD, I have a question for you... where did you install your transducer? does it go on the whaler drive or on the transom? I'm running a single motor?

 
wjd
#26 Print Post
Posted on 03/08/16 - 1:35 PM
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Hi SD
Ive been away awhile...sorry for the delayed response.
For the two aft corners, I cut some drain pieces from Starboard. I am fortunate to have a CNC machine so I drew a computer file that appealed to me and cut it out on the machine. I have simply placed them in the aft corners without sealant or fasteners such that I can lift them out to pull the drain plugs, clean or service those areas easily. I will try to remember to take a photo and post it for you in the future.
As far as the transducer is concerned, I mounted it on the Whaler Drive. Since I have twin outboards, I mounted it between the motors, 4" towards port of the centre line. I was worried about getting a clean flow of water there because of the step between the transom and the Whaler Drive. I used an Airmar transducer and am pleased with the results. The Whaler Drive complicates the flow of clean water and I was close to glassing in a through hull option. In hindsight, I'm glad I didn't.

 
VA Whaler
#27 Print Post
Posted on 03/08/16 - 2:49 PM
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WJD, you did some GREAT WORK on your boat. Want to do the same with a 1979 22' Revenge? :) You set the bar pretty damn high for us, Holy Cow!

Its interesting that even though they are different sizes and yours is about 10 years newer than mine, there are definite similarities between the areas under the deck. Would you mind passing on a couple items of knowledge that I might be able to use. Whaler designed the deck of my Revenge to go under the cabinets that are associated with the cabin. So if I want to inspect or work on the fuel tank, that's not an easy proposition. I basically have to take apart the cabin to do it. I want to cut my deck near the front of the fuel tank cavity so future fuel tank work won't be as much of a pain. Do you have any photos of the cross member that your main deck attaches to near the front of the fuel tank? If its just the front wall of the fuel tank cavity, I'm wondering if I can just cut my deck there and then fasten both "new" ends to that cross member. I'd need to do a test drilling and see if there is any wood in there but its a possibility.

I wish I read how you used a pressure washer to cut your foam out. That was defininitely a pain to cut it out by hand. How much foam did you use to seal up your tank?

Thanks!

John

how much foam did you need to reseal your tank?


Edited by VA Whaler on 03/08/16 - 2:52 PM
 
wjd
#28 Print Post
Posted on 03/09/16 - 5:16 PM
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Hi John,
Thank you for the compliments.
I had a look at your profile and saw a photo of your floor tipped up on edge. WOW that is a massive piece! The floor on my 22 is in three pieces instead of yours as one piece. My centre piece was so wet and heavy it took three of us to lift it out. Yours must weigh a ton! I attached a few photos of the moulded liner and also the floor sections. Notice the floors have a lapped joint similar to shiplap lumber. This allows the joint in the floor sections to be supported and sort of work together. The joint in the floor is over the large supporting area where the sprue hole is. You can see sealant where the screws go.
Honestly, I can't remember how much foam I used. I think I used most of two 1 gallon kits (each kit has 1 gal A and 1 gal B) so 4 gallons of liquid. The foam expands at a known rate - I think 8X volume. so you can calculate the volume required and divide by the expansion rate.
Good luck with you project
Warren

 
VA Whaler
#29 Print Post
Posted on 03/10/16 - 5:58 AM
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Warren,

Thanks for the information. I'll relay your information and the photos to the fiberglass guy who will be working on the deck.

The floor was definitely heavy and nobody nearby to help out. I'd have to guess it weighs 250+ lbs. I was lucky the gelcoat didn't snap in half when I was moving it around. I was also fortunate that the boat has a lowered transom for this project. I strapped down a ramp on the transom with the other end on my utility trailer. I put the deck on edge, lifted the aft end onto the ramp and slowly let it slide down the ramp. Gravity took care of the rest. That's shade tree boat work. Smile

I have a couple more questions for you if you don't mind.

1) On your boat does the raised area there at the sprue hole have any wood underneath? I thought about maybe adding a 4" x 4" to the front of the fuel tank cavity to support the new deck but now I'm thinking I will have the fiberglass guy cut the footrest associated with the starboard cabinet and then hinge it in the same manner that the port side is designed. With both footrests hinged, I could easily access the fasteners and the seal between the decks plus I'd have much more room to do the lapped joint you mentioned.

2) Where did you purchase your foam and do you recall what you paid for it? Just need to get a ballpark idea of cost so I can budget for all this spring work.

Thanks!

John


Edited by VA Whaler on 03/10/16 - 6:01 AM
 
wjd
#30 Print Post
Posted on 03/10/16 - 2:02 PM
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Hi John,
I don't know if there is any wood around the sprue hole area. If the resistance to the screws being driven in is an indication, I would guess not. The underside of my floor was only 1/16" above this area and I chose to bed the forward floor section in 3M 4200 such that it was semi permanently installed - I certainly would not want to remove it. The tank covering section then screws into the lap joint to connect the two floor sections together and the seam is caulked with tinted silicone. This results in a very solid floor which could be removed. Removal would be a big job as the T top, console and leaning post would all have to go first.
I bought the foam and for that matter most of the fibreglass/gelcoat supplies from a place called Coast Fiber Tek. If I recall correctly the cost for the foam was near $300.00.
I hope this helps.

 
VA Whaler
#31 Print Post
Posted on 03/11/16 - 3:55 AM
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Thanks Warren. Appreciate your help and I'll relay your information to the fiberglass guy. Apparently he is big into the use of composites and used to work at one of the largest Whaler dealerships on the East Coast before retiring so it will be interesting to hear what he comes up with. I know next to nothing about working with fiberglass so I'm hoping I might learn how its done

 
SD Whaler
#32 Print Post
Posted on 04/06/16 - 10:38 PM
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WJD, here's a link to my whaler.... check out the pics, let me know what you think

 
wjd
#33 Print Post
Posted on 04/07/16 - 12:50 PM
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Hi SD, I found your ad on Craigslist. It looks terrific! I can't believe you're selling it after all that work. You ought to get a little blood on the decks first! Good luck


Edited by wjd on 04/07/16 - 12:51 PM
 
nes4pres
#34 Print Post
Posted on 07/23/16 - 3:56 AM
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WJD

From one of the pics it appears your outrage had a cuddy at one time. If so was it difficult to get off or just the repair of screws being most of the project.

Where are you BC are? I lived at the cost, moved to the Okanagan and looking for a project. Want something to blast around on the lake and use at the coast.

Read your posts on horse power. Interesting topic. US coast guard has no ratings but suggest LXWX2-90. However, manufactures like to use less as liability reducer. The project I want to do is similar an outrage I saw in Italy; twin 300 on 27 footer. Your suggestion of moving weight forward makes sense to me.

Extremely nice outrage WD.

 
69Scout
#35 Print Post
Posted on 11/28/17 - 7:20 AM
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I hope you guys don’t mind if I open this old thread. I have a 1990 Outrage 22 WD that I will repower next week. It has the 77 gallon fuel tank and the batteries were moved to the console. I was hoping to get some insight on how the twin Suzuki DF140 have performed. Any details on performance numbers, mounting height, and what props were used would be appreciated.

 
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