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Stator. I'm on my 3rd one in 10 years. This is the one component that will leave you stranded.. I've got an aftermarket ADI in there now and everything from cold start to smooth operation has improved. The motor is capable of far more power and RPMs than its 135 hp configuration. As with any other 30 year old motor, past owner history and maintenance is 1st and foremost.
I have the 1988, 150HP version of the engine installed on my 1975 Outrage 19 (see personal website link). Mine has about 1100 hours on since new, and the only problem I had was a power trim unit total replacement for $1500. due to bad seals from lack of use by the prior owner. As expected, I also had to have a carb replacement parts and cleaning done, new plugs, etc. .
Other than that, the engine has been extremely reliable and powerful for it's small 2.0 liter displacment. The oil injection system works perfectly with no problems at all, and I have not experienced the stator problems that Chris has had. It has a throaty, distinctive idle sound, and is only average in the running sound decible category due to it's "split cowl" design. The later, twin 200 EFI's that I have on my 25 are MUCH quieter running, due to their single "bucket" cowl design.
Mine is a 20" engine, and it has a nice, trim, overall appearance. The 25" XL versions have a "thicker" looking gearcase profile which I don't like, since Mercury used a 5" extension kit for achieve the extra length. Merecury did not come out with a taller 25" mid section until 1989.
This engine weighs no more than the current crop of 4-stroke 90's now on the market.
Everything stated above is true but consider the source when reading Larry's statements. Larry is a proactive boat owner with respect to maintenance where many owners are reactive. What I mean is most folks don't maintain their boat and motor to that level.. they repair it after it breaks.. now how many people have owned that motor over the last 3 decades and how many components are about to fail? You're not buying a 1 owner motor from someone like Larry.
Certainly a best case scenario is a fine baseline when considering what that motor is capable of, and Larry's input when it comes to classic Mercurys always has merit, but keep it in context. Unit specific past history is everything when considering a 28 year old motor.
Having said that, the 2.0 Mercury V6 is certainly among the best in it's class and one of the best outboards I've ever owned.
I think classic Whalers should have classic engines on them, at least as reasonably close to the age of the boat as possible. I assure you this adds value to a boat, as that has been my experience, provided the engine(s) look as close to new as possible. I also realize that many here would not agree with this idea. To each his own.
As for the Merc 150 I mentioned above, I had no choice in getting it, since it came on a Whaler I had to have - the Ribside 21. The original owner had repowered the boat with it, bought new, and it only had 420 hours it over a 12 year period, by Mercury hour meter installed on the boat of the same period. To me, a good 2-stroke is hardly broken in with hours that low. It is hours that count, not year of build. He also told me the enigne was bought as a leftover, and not actually put into service until 4 years later than it's apparent build year.
The other things of importance when buying a used outboard are:
1. condition of paint and decals, which sounds foolish enough? But it's not. Is the entire engine clean, polished and waxed, no greasy mess and with no skeg damage and paint missing? How an engine looks in cosmetic appearance is important, since it indicates how well the entire engine might have been cared for and how it was used. The exterior surfaces of outboards should be cared for like a car finish.
In the case of my 150, it passed this test, as you can see from the photos.
2. Is there any rust or corrosion, anywhere on the engine? This also indicates how it was used and taken care of. If either of these conditions exist, it is a no buy. Mine also passed this test.
3. Cylinder compression must check out. So must power trim operation - no bleed down or reverse kick-up. In my case, I got caught on the trim issue, but even the cost of the repair made the engine a great deal, since it has been giving me excellent service for 11 years so far.
4. as mentioned, engine hours count. If everything above checks out, under 1500 hours should not be problem.
So in my opinion, if all of this criteria checks out, as it did with the one I bought used on the Ribside,
maybe I just got lucky. I think any used, or completely re-manufacutred 2-stroke outboard can be a great deal for a classic Whaler. In my case, Mercury first made this 150 in 1978, in IDENTICAL form and shape to the 1988 model I have. So since the Whaler it's now on is a 1975, I put 1978 Mercury decals on it (not yet shown in the photos), and the rig looks as close to period correct as possible, with both boat and engine looking brand new. The boat draws a lot of attention wherever I go with it, including numerous offers to buy it - ("If you ever want to sell it, call me").
