View Thread
Before Posting, Please Read Our Posting Guidelines Below.

1. Use the full 4 digit year for everything you are asking your question about. Example: 1962, 1988, 2000, 2011
2. Include the correct name of your Whaler model. Example: Montauk 17, Montauk 170, Outrage 26, Outrage 260
3. Include the length when necessary. Example: 16, 17, 18, 20, 22
4. Do not post your email address anywhere on this site as it is already in your user profile.

 Print Thread
15' Whaler Rebuild
Kayaken
#21 Print Post
Posted on 07/20/15 - 8:52 AM
Member

Posts: 113
Comments: 0
Joined: 12/27/14

Well thanks to all for the advice on removing the motor. I did it!! It was an adventure though.

Bought an engine lift for $50 and a motor stand for $20. I can flip those as soon as I'm done with the rebuild. Sunday was spent removing the bolts to the motor and hooking it up to the lift. Made a mistake of not extending the boom all the way out which prevented me from positioning the motor stand in the right position. So, with the help of my trusty wife/assistant, I had her lower the engine to the ground resting on the skeg while I held the motor upright. She unhooked the motor from the lift and extended the boom far enough that the engine stand could be positioned correctly. Relifted the motor back up and was able to mount the motor to the stand.

Not adventure #2 starts. Thinking that all was set, I stepped back to admire the handy work and that's when the motor started to rotate on the motor stand. In all the excitement, I forgot to tighten the rotation screw on the stand. So in a panic, I was able to catch the motor after it had rotated 90 degrees, upright it again, and then have my wife tighten the set screw. I strapped it the motor to the stand to prevent rotation and that's where it is at this moment. Hope the kids don't play around the motor while I'm at work. ;)

Now on to the next phase... sanding. Any recommendations? Orbital sander vs angle grinder? Best methods for removing chipping paint? Also, how should I handle chipping paint on the parts of the floor that have the textured bumps? I assume sanding those areas removes the bumps as well?

 
dgoodhue
#22 Print Post
Posted on 07/20/15 - 10:39 AM
Member

Posts: 278
Comments: 0
Joined: 10/04/05

I would use the sander. The angle grinder isn't going to take the material off evenly is going to create more work to smooth it out.

Does the non skid deck also have paint in it? I would have someone walnut blast the non skid (maybe do the whole boat they are at it) like they do toremove bottom paint. I would try to leave the non skid deck if possible.



Dave
 
Kayaken
#23 Print Post
Posted on 07/20/15 - 1:04 PM
Member

Posts: 113
Comments: 0
Joined: 12/27/14

I believe the deck non-skid has paint. I picked up a harborfreight soda blaster that I may use to do the textured areas. Bought it years ago and never used it. Now I have the opportunity! Yay!! Great suggestion on blasting it clean.

I still have the problem of removing the steering cable from the motor and it binding. I'll add pictures tonight.

 
Kayaken
#24 Print Post
Posted on 07/20/15 - 5:53 PM
Member

Posts: 113
Comments: 0
Joined: 12/27/14

So here are some of my latest pictures:

Motor on engine stand finally!
http://s1341.photobucket.com/user/kay...=3&o=3

Binding steering cable. Can I simply tap the other end with a steel rod and hammer to push the steering cable out?
http://s1341.photobucket.com/user/kay...=3&o=2

Mysterious wood block screwed into flooring. I believe the previous owner put it there as a brace for the steering console. Is it necessary?
http://s1341.photobucket.com/user/kay...=3&o=1



 
Joe Kriz
#25 Print Post
Posted on 07/20/15 - 6:15 PM
User Avatar
Site Owner
Personal Page
Personal Album
Photo Albums
Project Albums

Posts: 11424
Comments: 452
Joined: 03/18/05

Kayaken wrote:
Mysterious wood block screwed into flooring.

That would be the floor/console cleat.
See the downloads section for the 13' model which is very similar.
Yes, it is necessary.
See "Console and Seats for 13' Sport" here:
http://www.whalercentral.com/download...?cat_id=13

 
Kayaken
#26 Print Post
Posted on 07/21/15 - 4:11 AM
Member

Posts: 113
Comments: 0
Joined: 12/27/14

Joe kriz: thanks for the link. That should help tremendously with the rebuild of the interior. Appreciate the info.

Now to the stuck steering cable. Should that slide easily out the motor linkage as shown in the picture above? I'm stumped on this one.

 
Kayaken
#27 Print Post
Posted on 07/21/15 - 4:44 AM
Member

Posts: 113
Comments: 0
Joined: 12/27/14

Never mind. Tapped it out with a socket extension. Now I can start sanding!

 
Kayaken
#28 Print Post
Posted on 07/26/15 - 11:10 AM
Member

Posts: 113
Comments: 0
Joined: 12/27/14

Started sanding yesterday and then quickly realized I need help. This is what I'm seeing:

http://i1341.photobucket.com/albums/o...cg8k1c.jpg

I see 5 layers:

1. White paint (flaky in some areas, but overall holding pretty strong)
2. Off white paint (I believe). Is this the gelcoat?
3. Red layer (not sure what this is). This layer is hard. Is this gelcoat?
4. Fiberglass
5. Tan layer (not sure if this is the foam) It's hard but has a soft fuzzy texture.

I tried 40 grit sandpaper to get the paint off, but it was not effective. The chipped parts are coming off easily, but the rest is holding tight. Should I continue to sand it off? I'm worried that I may oversand into one of the other layers. Shouldn't I stop at the gelcoat? I'm assuming if I'm into layer #5, then I've oversanded. Also, at the rate the sanding is going, I'll be sanding for another 2 months. Smile Looking for instruction and best practice on what to do with the paint that is flaking vs the paint that is holding tight.

On a sidenote, I'm trying remove the steering from the console. How do I remove the steering wheel? I removed the bolts holding the assembly onto the wood, but it seems that I need to disconnect the actual wheel in order to remove the entire assembly from the console.

http://i1341.photobucket.com/albums/o...wph7lf.jpg

Thanks!

 
wlagarde
#29 Print Post
Posted on 07/26/15 - 11:40 AM
User Avatar
Member
Personal Page
Project Albums

Posts: 442
Comments: 2
Joined: 07/21/13

Use the allen key set screw to remove the center cap of the steering wheel. Then remove the steering shaft nut and then the steering wheel (may need to use PB Blaster and tap the shaft lightly with a hammer; be careful not to deform the shaft). Then use the flat head screws (or possibly phillips) that are exposed once the steering wheel is removed to remove the steering mechanism from the steering bezel (the mechanism will drop downward from underneath the console once unscrewed). Then you can unbolt the bezel from the console from underneath (it looks like you already removed these) and the bezel will then be free.


Edited by wlagarde on 07/26/15 - 11:40 AM
1976 Sport 15 w/ 2005 50hp Nissan 2 stroke
 
Kayaken
#30 Print Post
Posted on 07/26/15 - 5:50 PM
Member

Posts: 113
Comments: 0
Joined: 12/27/14

Thanks wlagarde. I was able to pop off the steering cap and unbolt the steering wheel. It seems to be stuck so I've PB blasted it and will let it set overnight. I'll update tomorrow.

Regarding removing paint, do any of you recommend Citristrip paint stripper? I may go this route so I don't cause unnecessary damage to gelcoat or fiberglass.


 
wlagarde
#31 Print Post
Posted on 07/26/15 - 7:33 PM
User Avatar
Member
Personal Page
Project Albums

Posts: 442
Comments: 2
Joined: 07/21/13

If you screw the steering wheel nut partially onto the shaft (so the shaft is recessed below the surface of the nut by and 8th of an inch or so) and then tap on the nut with a hammer it will allow you to tap on the shaft to help with removing the steering wheel without deforming the shaft. Just be careful and don't be too aggressive with the hammer.


1976 Sport 15 w/ 2005 50hp Nissan 2 stroke
 
Kayaken
#32 Print Post
Posted on 07/27/15 - 10:25 AM
Member

Posts: 113
Comments: 0
Joined: 12/27/14

Thanks. Tried it but it won't budge. I'll PB blast it and keep trying. Any other suggestions?

Also picked up a quart of Citrstrip. Looking forward to seeing if that works.

 
dgoodhue
#33 Print Post
Posted on 07/27/15 - 11:46 AM
Member

Posts: 278
Comments: 0
Joined: 10/04/05

The off white (desert sand) is the gelcoat. Personally I would stop at the gelcoat if you can get away with that later being smooth on the non skid sections. At the very most I would only sand down the fiberglass (green).


Dave
 
Kayaken
#34 Print Post
Posted on 07/28/15 - 3:36 AM
Member

Posts: 113
Comments: 0
Joined: 12/27/14

Dgoodhue: not sure I understand what you are saying about the nonskid sections. Can you clarify? Thanks


 
dgoodhue
#35 Print Post
Posted on 07/29/15 - 10:14 AM
Member

Posts: 278
Comments: 0
Joined: 10/04/05

The floor (if original) is made up of non skid gelcoat.


Dave
 
Kayaken
#36 Print Post
Posted on 07/29/15 - 3:28 PM
Member

Posts: 113
Comments: 0
Joined: 12/27/14

Dgoodhue: Are you saying to sand down the textured nubs on the flooring? I bought the citristrip and it is removing all the paint on the flat surfaces, but I'm not sure how to handle the textured floors as the Citristrip does not easily remove those sections.

 
dgoodhue
#37 Print Post
Posted on 07/29/15 - 3:53 PM
Member

Posts: 278
Comments: 0
Joined: 10/04/05

I meant do NOT sand down the non skid if possible.

I am not sure what I wrote before it was autocorrected, I definitely would not recommend sanding down the non skid so it is smooth.


Dave
 
Kayaken
#38 Print Post
Posted on 07/31/15 - 4:13 AM
Member

Posts: 113
Comments: 0
Joined: 12/27/14

Got it. I tried the citristrip but I'm having difficulty getting the paint to bubble up to scrape off. Any tips?

Also, what's the best way to remove the tow hardware? I'm trying to scrape the paint off around that area and it's giving me fits. Also, is it worth polishing that piece of hardware? What type of metal is it?

http://i1341.photobucket.com/albums/o...atlib6.jpg

Thanks,

 
dgoodhue
#39 Print Post
Posted on 07/31/15 - 4:59 AM
Member

Posts: 278
Comments: 0
Joined: 10/04/05

The norman pin just unscrews. To undo the bow eye and rear tiedowns, I would get a set of pry are and another person. One to hold the outside, the other unscrew the inside.


Dave
 
Binkie
#40 Print Post
Posted on 07/31/15 - 7:49 AM
User Avatar
Member
Personal Page

Posts: 2012
Comments: 0
Joined: 12/19/05

If the Citra strip is removing the paint, then continue using it. After a section bubbles I would blast the paint remover off with a gas powered pressure washer. I assume your boat is outside on a trailer. Be very careful though. wear long pants long sleeves, rubber loves and glasses hat and a hat. that stuff will fly everywhere and will burn if it gets on your skin. Do a section at a time. It makes the labor easy and fast. It won't take off the gel coat, which is probably intact. that will have to be sanded with your orbital sander, starting with 80 grit and working up top 150. I think you have found boat restoring is slow hard work, but in the end is well worth the trouble.


Rich
 
Jump to Forum:
Bookmark and Share
Today's Date & Time
March 28, 2024 - 6:31 AM
Users Online
Welcome
93SL16MN
as the newest member

· Guests Online: 10
· Members Online: 0
· Total Members: 49,964
Login
Username

Password

Remember Me


Not a member yet?
Click here to register.

Forgotten your password?
Request a new one here.
Top 5 Models Posted
· Montauk 17 1,622
· Sport 13 1,354
· Outrage 18 549
· Nauset 16 396
· Sport 15 363

View all Models Here
Render time: 0.50 seconds Copyright WhalerCentral.com © 2003-2024 82,695,797 unique visits