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13' CLASSIC WIRING DIAGRAM
Floyd349	#1  Posted on 03/30/15 - 12:54 PM
Member Posts: 8 Comments: 0 Joined: 10/31/14	I HAVE A 1972 CLASSIC AND I AM WANTING TO REPLACE THE FRONT LIGHT. THE WIRES ON BOAT ARE VERY BAD SHAPE. HOW DO I RUN NEW WIRES AND IS THERE A WIRING DIAGRAM I CAN FOLLOW. THANKS YOU
John Fyke	#2  Posted on 03/30/15 - 2:22 PM
Member Personal Page Posts: 1307 Comments: 0 Joined: 09/06/06	Try the download section. But to answer your question under the rub rail. John Fyke Re-Fit or Reef It 1979 15' Sport with Super Sport conversion and 70hp mercury.
jonesn4fun	#3  Posted on 03/30/15 - 8:58 PM
Member Personal Page Posts: 7 Comments: 0 Joined: 02/02/15	I also just picked up my first whaler (1988 13' Super Sport Limited) and found my wiring all spliced together in one big ball hidden underneath the aft stbd interior Fuse block. It had the bilge, bow and stern lights all spliced together, with the striped wire from the switch not being used. There was even some lamp wire spliced in. The light switch would turn everything on. There were also no fuses to be found anywhere in the system. Needless to say I've taken on a re-wiring job. I have a question regarding the "Stern Light Installation instructions" in the Download section. Page 2 second from the last at location: http://www.whalercentral.com/download...owstart=15 The diagram labeled Detail D shows the black wire coming off the Terminal Block to the Battery as Black (+). Shouldn't that be Black (-) ? Thanks. Dave (made link clickable) Edited by Joe Kriz on 03/31/15 - 8:52 AM
Floyd349	#4  Posted on 03/31/15 - 7:18 AM
Member Posts: 8 Comments: 0 Joined: 10/31/14	Thank you for the quick responses. I looked and do not see a wiring download. Also, in order to rewire through rub rail, can that be removed. It is in great shape and would hate to remove it and not be able to replace without the new $200.00 rub rail kit. I just have a MESS of wires and can not get front or back lights to turn on. Thanks
Phil T	#5  Posted on 03/31/15 - 9:09 AM
Administrator Personal Page Personal Album Project Albums Posts: 6985 Comments: 6 Joined: 03/26/05	The older classic hulls had the bow light wire run under the floor in the foam. It was not replaceable. The recommended replacement technique is to utilize the existing rubrail to run a new wire from the rear corner to the bow, then drill a hole and feed the wire to the light. The rubrail consists of a receiver track and a rubber insert. Remove the rubber insert from the stern to the bow on a WARM day. Run the wire in the track and then reinstall the insert. This should be done on a WARM day with a rubber mallet. Use marine speaker wire to ensure the proper wire gauge and size.
Floyd349	#6  Posted on 03/31/15 - 11:08 AM
Member Posts: 8 Comments: 0 Joined: 10/31/14	Thanks, I will try it tomorrow. The temps are to get into the 70's. I live in NC, in your opinion would this be warm enough. Thanks again
Phil T	#7  Posted on 03/31/15 - 11:35 AM
Administrator Personal Page Personal Album Project Albums Posts: 6985 Comments: 6 Joined: 03/26/05	Yes.
jonesn4fun	#8  Posted on 03/31/15 - 11:37 AM
Member Personal Page Posts: 7 Comments: 0 Joined: 02/02/15	Sorry to jump on this thread, perhaps I should have started a fresh one, but I was hoping someone could provide an answer to my question above regarding the black wire going to the battery in the stern light installation doc in the download section. Thanks. Dave
Joe Kriz	#9  Posted on 03/31/15 - 12:11 PM
Site Owner Personal Page Personal Album Photo Albums Project Albums Posts: 11429 Comments: 452 Joined: 03/18/05	jonesn4fun wrote: Sorry to jump on this thread, perhaps I should have started a fresh one, but I was hoping someone could provide an answer to my question above regarding the black wire going to the battery in the stern light installation doc in the download section. Thanks. Dave There are other things not correct in the drawing and one of them is the black wire should be labeled minus instead of plus.
jonesn4fun	#10  Posted on 03/31/15 - 12:41 PM
Member Personal Page Posts: 7 Comments: 0 Joined: 02/02/15	Thanks Joe...really appreciate it. Dave
Joe Kriz	#11  Posted on 03/31/15 - 12:55 PM
Site Owner Personal Page Personal Album Photo Albums Project Albums Posts: 11429 Comments: 452 Joined: 03/18/05	I have 3 different color wires in my factory harness and I also do not have a fuse there. White wire = Stern Light side of switch (+) Green wire = Bow Light side of switch (+) Black wire = common ground for both Wires colors may vary through the years and for different boats. Here is how to wire the switch. http://www.whalercentral.com/articles...icle_id=51
Floyd349	#12  Posted on 04/17/15 - 6:16 AM
Member Posts: 8 Comments: 0 Joined: 10/31/14	Thanks for all the help Guys. I removed the bumper, put new wire in and put bumper back on with no problems. The light works great. Thanks for all the advice. I'm on to boating tomorrow morning, cant wait.
Finnegan	#13  Posted on 04/17/15 - 1:06 PM
Member Posts: 1925 Comments: 16 Joined: 05/02/08	Regarding navigation light wiring color codes from the factory, and in accordance with the industry standards, from having upgraded and re-wired five Whalers, from 1971-1989, I can say that Whaler always used the gray, gray/black stripe and black colors in their wiring harnesses for conventional inland navigation lights, and for bow and stern lights on the international systems also. I'm not sure which gray was used for bow or stern, and black was always the neg back to the battery. In Joe's case, and not knowing which boat he is referring to, where he describes the white, green and black used for the inland convention system, that is the AC three wire cable, so his must have been re-wired at a later date. It is, however, a good option, since the grays that the factory uses are harder to come by aftermarket. I used that AC wire when I re-wired my three boats which have the inland convention (1971, 1975 and 1979). The only place where Whaler used the 3 wire AC cable from the factory, is for the masthead console pole light in the 2nd generation Outrage models. There, the coiled "pigtail" is indeed an AC component, with the green, white and black. Whaler used the white for the forward facing light (running light) and the green for the stern facing light (anchor). These colors are contained solely within the console. Plain two wire cable, gray & black, are used to the bow and stern lights. Edited by Finnegan on 04/17/15 - 1:10 PM