1. Use the full 4 digit year for everything you are asking your question about. Example: 1962, 1988, 2000, 2011
2. Include the correct name of your Whaler model. Example: Montauk 17, Montauk 170, Outrage 26, Outrage 260
3. Include the length when necessary. Example: 16, 17, 18, 20, 22
4. Do not post your email address anywhere on this site as it is already in your user profile.

Outrage A-Frame
tmehew	#1  Posted on 01/26/15 - 10:40 AM
Member Posts: 3 Comments: 0 Joined: 06/29/14	Hi, I'm hoping to fit an a-frame on to my early 80's outrage 20. (new to me last year). I've put the following design together:- http://s1380.photobucket.com/user/tme...1/library/ I've taken the design idea from russellbailey3's Bucket / Radar Arch:- http://s1205.photobucket.com/user/rus...amp;page=1 but the main use is for wakeboarding so i've beefed it up a bit. My question is... I'm planning on using the same fitting position and technique as russellbaily3's design/frame (with the stainless angle section under the side rails taking the strain) - are there any structural points (ie wooden frames etc) down the sides of the boat, under the fibreglass, that I should be tapping into? Edited by Phil T on 01/26/15 - 6:28 PM
Phil T	#2  Posted on 01/26/15 - 6:44 PM
Administrator Personal Page Personal Album Project Albums Posts: 6985 Comments: 6 Joined: 03/26/05	There is no internal structure in a Boston Whaler hull. The foam is bonded to the inner and outer fiberglass. While Russ has a great setup, if you are going to use it for wake boarding, you may want to use a ski pylon instead. See http://www.attwoodmarine.com/store/ca...y/ski-tows
russellbailey	#3  Posted on 01/27/15 - 7:55 AM
Member Posts: 34 Comments: 0 Joined: 09/13/07	We wakeboard extensively with ours - no problems so far after two years of significant wakeboard use. The spots that the stainless angle are mounted to have nothing special about them - they are just reinforced with epoxy plugs at each spot. The specific locations were picked based on our goals for the arch position, not for structural reasons. Don't discount the load that a radar puts on it bouncing around in the ocean. The arch moves about as much on a rough day in the ocean as it does from a wakeboarder cutting way outside the wake.
tmehew	#4  Posted on 01/27/15 - 8:37 AM
Member Posts: 3 Comments: 0 Joined: 06/29/14	Hi Russ, That's great to hear - thanks v.much for the info. I think it's a great looking design - i don't know if you made it or spec'd it but whoever did clearly did a cracking job. What diameter section did you use for the main posts? I've gone with 42mm which might be overkill. Did you use an off the shelf towing hook or did you have it made up? If you're in the US, which I'm guessing you are, you'll have better access to that type of thing than here in the UK. Cheers, Tom
russellbailey	#5  Posted on 01/27/15 - 8:52 AM
Member Posts: 34 Comments: 0 Joined: 09/13/07	Raymond Martin (Martin Marine Design) made all the parts on the arch. I told him what I wanted it to do and he figured out how big pieces needed to be. There is a narrative of what he did on a post he made on thehulltruth at the time. I recall he mounted the tow point underneath the arch due to the radar - typically he'd mount it above. I don't recall the other sizes.
tmehew	#6  Posted on 01/27/15 - 9:07 AM
Member Posts: 3 Comments: 0 Joined: 06/29/14	Found it: http://www.thehulltruth.com/boating-outdoor-photos/515767-outrage-radar-wakeboard-arch.html Thanks - v helpful.