Before Posting, Please Read Our Posting Guidelines Below.
1. Use the full 4 digit year for everything you are asking your question about. Example: 1962, 1988, 2000, 2011 2. Include the correct name of your Whaler model. Example: Montauk 17, Montauk 170, Outrage 26, Outrage 260 3. Include the length when necessary. Example: 16, 17, 18, 20, 22 4. Do not post your email address anywhere on this site as it is already in your user profile.
Would you ever gel coat a boat again, or would you paint? I did a console once, and would go with a paint, no question. The amount of time and energy in sanding is just overwhelming. I give you a lot of credit, your workmanship is fantastic.
Walter Reynolds
1973 Boston Whaler 16 Nauset 90 HP Yamaha
Thanks for the good words Guys..
In a detail like this one,
I was imagining at first, that the work would have been straight forward and reasonably quickly done.
I do remember contacting the Spectrum Co and ordering some gel resin in a desert tan and medium gray colors.
The first coats quickly used my few quarts priced at $100/Q.
I had to solve the $ issue in order to make this refit float..
Nevertheless this "just about completed" resurfacing did cost me a pretty penny and oodles of hours.
Just when I did think that the final sanding was at hand, some details would show through the gel warranting yet another coat.
I do remember having it done in it's entirety and ready to be buffed within the cap areas IE;
To see pale and dark shadows appearing within the gelled surfaces.
These Ghosts shapes would compel me into spraying an extra few coats in order to give enough depth..to the cap surfaces.
An area that was especially troublesome was the 90' bordering the cap and rubrail surface.
Sanding by hand with 220 folded sheets and by DA with #400 grit did the job in the end.
The left over traces were scrutinized under direct lights and dealt with a #600 grit.
3M Finesse It, applied with my Simonize buffer did show additional imperfections that were dealt with accordingly.
I do not regret any of the work done here
The difference between an Imron paint and Polyester Gel will be seen as in the finishing product.
The prep work will be the same for both
The end paint will be usually a two to three coats spray with a sealer/wax and buff.
The gell will be more laboriously finished as in orange peel and"crater" sandings.
Less finishing work with the paint but not an "Original" condition.
To directly answer your question,Walt,
I would have loved to have helping me an apprentice or two for the careful finishing details.
I would also would've been grateful to have an updraft booth instead of my cosy asphalt home parking
And this in regard to the sanding dust factor and also for the added capacity to keep working throughout the rainy months seen here in the Winter.
In hindsight,
The work involved here is not a simple patch or scuff repair,
It is a complete resurfacing..
A smaller craft as a 13' would have been ideal to refit in this manner and this just for the fact that it would have been easy to overturn and work on the hull unhindered.
On the next one I would consider both materials and apply on an individual basis.
The prep as in filling dremelling and making the surfaces "sound" will be an important detail.
Concentrate on the prepping and the finishing answer will be revealed to you in good time.
No one would like to see those cracks reappear.
Thanks again for the appreciation of my humble efforts.
Edited by ritzyrags on 09/25/11 - 7:12 AM
Dont lie
Dont Cheat
And dont give up..
